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I Can't Shut The Darn Thing Off, Starter Still Spinning

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I have had the following problem and am looking for some help. The truck was started and the starter would not disengage. I also could not turn the truck off. I removed all of the relays from the power distribution center and it just kept running with the starter engaged(the key was out of the ignition). To stop the motor I pulled the fuel shutdown relay after the engine stopped running the starter spun for about 3-5 seconds. Since then I have not had any problems. Any ideas on what could have happened would be appreciated.

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95 2500 Automatic 4wd Bone stock for now
 
Sounds like burned contacts on the starter relay. Get hold of an auto electric shop and get the repair kit. Dodge will charge you an arm and leg if you go there!

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
Thank You Joe. From looking at the service manual I can see why the relays from the PDC did not do anything if the contacts were welded and why the fuel shut down relay was still powered

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95 2500 Automatic 4wd Bone stock for now
 
Later,

I have been thru this problem too. It seems the '94-'95's are prone to this. I rebuilt my starter solenoid. It was ok for about 6 months, then it started hanging up again.

I finally got a rebuilt starter from Advanced Auto, and have been problem free ever since.

Lots of good info in this thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum1/HTML/002117.html

This is what happened to me last June:

"The last time the starter hung up was in June.
It did it again today, this time I couldn`t get it to shut down!

This is what I tried. (keys out of the ignition switch, on the seat now. ) Trying to remain calm

Pulled starter relay out of the Power distribution Center under the hood. Does nothing.

Disconnected connector from the fuel shutdown solenoid. Engine shuts down, starter still crankin. (didn`t think it would shut down starter but tried anyhow)

Ran into work to get 1/2" wrench to dissconnect batteries. 30 seconds later batteries disconnected. ( I was lucky to have tools available)

Got a hammer. Gave the starter & solenoid a few light wacks. Starter is HOT Momentarily apply juice to starter again. Still hung up.

Disconnected solenod wire from starter. Applied juice. Still hung up.

Didn`t have access to an voltmeter. So I pulled the starter. (Note: the best tool I have found to remove the 3 bolts to the starter is a long 12 point 10MM boxed end wrench. Forget a rachet. Get the bolts from under the truck. Under 5 mins time to drop starter)

It didn`t surprise me what I found. The pinion gear (bendix) was in the out position. Engaged to the engine ring gear.
I touched the pinion (bendix) and it snapped in to the retracted position. Like it should have done when the key was cycled from the start to run position.

Tested it by grounding the body of the starter to the bellhousing, and having a helper turn the ignition key. It works perfect again. Popped the starter back in and hooked up the cables and I was off.

I have started the truck 6 times since I got home from work. No problems.

Keep in mind I rebuilt the starter solenoid about a year and a half ago. (diesel electric service Kit from the TDR) this was the full kit ,contacts, plunger, new springs, ect.

I suppose I could dissassemble the starter & solenoid to see whats wrong, but I don`t have the time or ambition.

$233 bananas for a rebuild starter from Advanced Auto. Much better than $600 for new starter from D/C. Will install tomorrow"



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 04-17-2001). ]
 
Hemidart:
Thanks for the link. I'll learn from your experience, buy a rebuilt starter and save some skin on my knuckles. The problem started after the intake heater stuck on and the original batteries died. Changed to Interstate MTP-65's and am very happy.
Thanks again.
 
Do keep in mind this problem will come back. I have had it happen to me when do don't have any tools around. I happened to the work truck and it burned the fuel solenoid the first time it did it. I was not presently driving it then. They put the starter back in and it run 2 weeks then it happen to me. When you have a thousand amps turning the starter ,it will not stall. I got the cables off before things got to hot. The starter solenoid also was out until I touched the gear and it disenguaged. I put a new starter in it and no reacurances. Steve Fyfe

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Nothing like Cummins Power
 
I had the same thing happen to me, and addressed it the same way HEMI did. With the age on that starter and the WORK it has to do at each & every start, I went ahead and bought another starter (Auto Zone - Lifetime warranty) to avoid that sick feeling of helplessness you get when the Cummins is beating up the poor old starter motor.

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95 2500 SLT, clubcab, 2wd, longbed, a/t, 3. 54, 150K miles, "all the usual refinements"
 
Later Agitator,
I have had same problem acouple times with in a year period. Finally the starter solenoid went out.
Checking the solenoid out I had one burnt up contact point(the battery side),was able to get starter repair shop sell me one contact point. The Starter acts brand new.

An old diesel mechanic made an educated quess that the diesel fuel had helped in burning up the contact point.

Did I mentioned my return fuel line had been leaking. I could see the tell tale signs on my starter. It was continually moist on top and eventually I found diesl fuel in the cover cap of the battery terminal (under starter).
I have to agree with the old mechanic fuel leaks in from top side thru the starter side of solenoid terminal (on top with wire going to starter motor) and settles around the battery terminal side of solenoid conact point. I beleive water can also leak thru causing the two contact points to conduct even after key is turned off.

The starter shop said he sells new starters for Dodge Diesel's can't remeber price off hand but alot cheaper than what I've seen posted. You will notice your starter was made in Japan.

I'm in Kansas for a few days so if any one e-mails me I won't be checking mail until I get back.
Good luck Later. The contact point cost me 8. 00 dollars.

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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000
 
I did both repairs. I got the repair kit from Diesel Electric Service and bought a starter from Checker auto parts. It was only $130 for the Autolite. Call around for the best price. I installed the new starter until I could fix the original one. I kept the original starter, that I repaired, as a spare. It was worth the $15 core charge.
 
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