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I changed the TPS while I changed the engine oil

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Solenoid substitute

Lookee what I found

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I mean I changed the TPS to a POT. It was quick. I know it was a sore subject last time we discussed the TPS swap to POT vrs clean the TPS, but I can report first had it can be accomplished during the oil drain.



All you really do is change from one switch and wire in another. I would guess it takes longer to cut the TSP apart/clean it than perform the change over, but it's only a guess. Least, with the POT, you don't have to re-clean it again when it fails. It really does take longer to read the directions than to do the swap.



I'm a paid member of the "No TPS Club". When can I get the window decal, hummmm???



Oh, the oil change went well and I installed the Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 Synthetic Blend. Baldwin BT339 oil/BF1221 fuel filters.
 
It is a potentiometer. Same as what is pump mounted 'cept now, it mounts on the dash and is adjusted by turning the knob as opposed to the cap screw under the pump mount unit.



The dealer cost/ OEM TPS is somewhere about 260. 00 and the radio shack unit is about 3. 00 It will not move with the throttle so you just dial a shift and leave it there. Or adjust the switch with variable loads as you see fit.



There is a couple nice write ups on the parts needed. One is here sonewhere and another on the Dodge web stie. I would have to look in my notes to post a link.



To perform the swap, the pump mount is removed. The wire harness is spiced to wire in a three lead wire. You can save the OEM weather pack or cut it off. The wires are soldered to the existing wires at the OEM TPS and run into the cab to a position on the dash. The new TPS (potentiometer) is mounted and wired to take place of the TPS.



Then you simply dial a shift. I used the 1-turn POT and its set in the middle. The directions tell you to set the knob to about 1:00 but that is dependent on how one mounts the switch, the position of the knob and how the pot is wired. So, that really means nothing.



The importand thing is to buy the correct pot and KEEP THE MIDDLE WIRE THE MIDDLE WIRE!
 
OK. I thought that this would be a direct replacement for the TPS. I'd considered trying to rig something like this a while back, but had decided to just go with the switch instead. I'll stick with the switch (also from RS) because I've also got a bad engine computer board and don't want to pay for one of those too. Haven't found another source for those.
 
APOT is just that. A replacement for the OEM TPS. You must still use a PCM and the VSS.



I know the switch you speak of. I have mounted one after I lost OD on a long trip far from home. I can operate the OD solenoid manually if I loose my VSS.
 
Isn't that similar to substituting a home depot light switch (or two) for the headlight switch??



Not at all Jay, there are a lot of people that have done the Pot Mod rather than spend over $250 bucks replacing the OEM part. With the Potentiometer you get a bit of adjustability to boot. If a Potentiometer cost twenty times what it does it would seem less cheesy...



There is a guy on the DTR that figured out how to use a factory Chryler TPS off a car for about that, $50 bucks. If that makes a guy feel better I wouldn't be afraid to try it.



Low buck TPS fix - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums
 
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