I flushed my brake fluid today.

[Buzzer]

You need to understand that brake fluid will attract water just through normal use. Water will reduce the boiling temperature of the fluid and sooner or later you'll have to lean on the brakes only to have them fade because of the lowered boiling point. The safe thing to do with any vehicle is to throughly bleed the brake system once a year. Two years if you push it.

 

[BNH4221]

Do you remember the old rubber bulbs with the small snout where they put them in the baby's throat and ears and suck out all the bad stuff?

I use a turkey baster. Just don't put it back in the kitchen drawer or the Thanksgiving turkey will taste a little "funny"



Steve

 

[rbattelle]

I checked out the site. Sounds like a scam to me. Must be trying to sell some fluid.

If there's no need to change brake fluid, why does brake fluid change color over time as its in service?



Perhaps because it accumulates contaminants resulting from degradation of the brake system seals and other components due to the presence of water?



-Ryan

 

[LesStallings]

I've got a couple of ~50 year old cars and I can assure you that braking systems last much, much longer with routine brake system flush/bleeds. Some of the latest brake fluids claim "low moisture absorption". Low is good, but they still absorb moisture. I'm not aware of any manufacturer that uses all stainless steel brake systems, including internals. Steel will rust and water in brake fluid will do it.



If you are going to keep your truck more than 3 years, do an annual brake system flush/bleed. The little bit of time and cost involved will pay you back in a long life for the system. If you lease your truck and are going to turn it in after 24-36 months, do whatever...

 

[rbattelle]

If you are going to keep your truck more than 3 years, do an annual brake system flush/bleed.

I want to do it every 2 years. Unfortunately, this happened. Still haven't fixed it.



-Ryan

 

[HOBrian]

I want to do it every 2 years. Unfortunately, this happened. Still haven't fixed it.



-Ryan

It's funny I looked at the topic for this heading and I thought tomyself... self how in heck did he get to bleed his brakes

1. Was he lucky??

2. Was the force on his side??

3. Did he pray to the bleeder screw gods??



Ryan, I guess some have the luck and others do not.



For those that don't know after Ryan broke his I went out and tried my bleeder screw, thinking not all were that tight :{ :{ :{

 

[evldsl]

If there's no need to change brake fluid, why does brake fluid change color over time as its in service?



Perhaps because it accumulates contaminants resulting from degradation of the brake system seals and other components due to the presence of water?



-Ryan

The heat causes the fluid to change color along with the attraction of water into the fluid by condesation.

 

[RHildreth]

I did a little research. Check this link. Turns out you should change your brake fluid if your copper levels are over 200ppm. Water isn't the issue.



http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50412.htm

 

[rweis]

I put 3/8" speed bleeders on my 02 front and rear the same. Very fast, I push a whole quart through just to be sure it is all very clean and fresh.



Bob Weis

 

[LightmanE300]

Jeez - sorry to hear that Ryan and Brian - I guess I got lucky, mine didn't give me any trouble coming loose to bleed them. I'm paranoid now though wondering how tight I reinstalled them, considering the salty winter, etc... hope next time around they still work. I will say that for those that are able to get their bleeders open, the motive bleeder has been a pleasure to use.



As for using the DRB to complete the procedure - this is really not necesary, at least according to folks on this site as well as my dealer's tech. They said just a small amount of fluid resides in the abs system, which can be expelled somehow using the drb, but it's such a small percentage of fluid that it really doesn't need to be bothered with, it will mix the next time you use the abs. For the record, I have used my abs a lot lately in the ice/snow, and my fluid is still very very light/clear colored, so whatever mixed in must not have been that bad. .

 

[gtobey]

Very interesting article. Reminded me of college chemistry class and electrolysis. I think as cheap as the fluid is, and how quick it can be changed, I believe for whatever reason, water or copper, I will change it every couple of years as a preventive maintenance procedure... .



Thanks for the info...

 

[Buffalo]

How About Bleeding The Clutch System???

I have an '03, HO, NV-5600 (6-sp. ).



Can the clutch system be bled? I looked under the truck & couldn't see how it could be done.



Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.



Joe F. (Buffalo)

 

[rbattelle]

I have an '03, HO, NV-5600 (6-sp. ).



Can the clutch system be bled? I looked under the truck & couldn't see how it could be done.



Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.



Joe F. (Buffalo)

Officially, no the clutch cannot be bled. It can only be replaced.



However, I seem to remember someone saying something about some kind of "back door" way to bleed it anyway.



-Ryan

 

[Buffalo]

Sorry, I just wanted to bring this informative thread back to the top, for a friend to read.

Thanks.

Joe F. (Buffalo)

 

[betterthanstock]

I have an '03, HO, NV-5600 (6-sp. ).



Can the clutch system be bled? (Buffalo)

The clutch is 100% plastic and it does not get hot like brake fluid. No need to change it until you change the clutch.



The old cars had rubber seals sliding on cast iron. Today's calipers have (I am not sure about our Dodge, perhaps someone who has changed their pads can comment on this) phenolic pistons, and the seals slide on that, instead of metal, so even with a little corrosion of the lines and calipers, it won't cause them to leak. Also, the phenolic insulates much better from high temperatures, so keeps fluid going for longer.



I don't know about the ABS materials, or the master cylinder (aluminum?) but it's likely they use plastics, rather than brass and cast iron.

 

[Matt400]

I did a little research. Water isn't the issue.

Well it should be, brake fluid is designed to absorb water. If it didn't then the water would collect in low points and become a major problem.



Water in the fluid reduces the fluids boiling point, fluid that boils in the calipers will cause your brakes to fade. At work I routinely see fluid that has boiling points reduced 200 degrees due to moisture.



Another great bleeder for those that have a good air compressor is the Drain Man.

The nice thing about that one is you can vacuum out the reservoir with it, add new fluid and then pull a vacuum on the bleeders all without any pumping.



On the above link. . click products, then brake service, then Drain Man.

 

[glav]

Lightman, Thanks for the tip!! I need to flush my truck and also my 5th wheel trailer has disk brakes and it needs it too. Hopefully this little tool will make it quick and easy and is "Dirt Simple".

Thanks

 

[mbhw]

Brake Fluid Contamination

I have an 04 purchased new in Jan 05. After studying up on brake fluid, I decided to get a brake fluid tester. I tested my fluid and it showed up with over 3% moisture in it. A very dangerous situation. Moisture lowers the boiling point of your fluid. In a panic stop, a tremendous amount of heat is enough to biol your fluid. The moisture turns to steam :--). At this point you do not have bad brakes you have brakes :-{} . This truck has never been in water or any thing.



What I think happens is this. Dodge probably gets brake fluid by the train load. It is transferred again and again to different containers before it is put into the truck. It could have anything in it. From dust ... . to a guy using it as a urinal.



I was shocked to find my fluid so contaminated. So don't make the mistake of assuming your fluid is OK.

 

[Buffalo]

Motive Prod. Power Bleeder Pro

Today, I purchased the Motive Prod. Power Bleeder Pro #0250 along with one of their catch bottles.

I ordered it from Apex Performance.net (866-505-2739). You save a little bit on shipping by phoning in your order ($3. 64) over using their website. The PB Pro was $71. 49 plus $11. 95 for the collector bottle & $6. 25 for the shipping (FED/EX), for a total of $89. 69.

I chose to go with the PB Pro because it will service 99% of the vehicles, out there. I have 5 different vehicles to maintain & have been wanting to address the brake fluid issue, for awhile, now. The other day, I called a number of repair shops to get price quotes on brake fluid flushes & the price was between $36. 95 & $117. 00 for the proceedure, on my '03 Dodge. I figure that this is the most economical way to get the job done.



I want to THANK Lightman E-300 for originally posting about this issue & the other members that have contributed to this thread. It has been very helpful, to me, & others, I'm sure.



If anyone is interested, Motive Prod. is having a price increase beginning Jan. 1, '06, on their products. Apex Performance will have to pass that increase on to its customers, also. If anyone is interested in these products, today would be the day to buy.



Joe F. (Buffalo)

 

[PatrickCampbell]

A couple questions.



With this, is it necessary to have the open hose end that goes onto the bleeder valve dipped into a bucket of clean brake fluid or no?



How much brake fluid does it take to flush our system?



What is the sequence for bleeding (right rear, left rear, right front, left front?)