I HATE those plastic wire taps...

[PRyker]

I forget what they are called but those cheapo plastic wire taps that has the little metal blade to tap a wire. Been fiddling around trying to get the white night backup lights installed and NO VOLTAGE because of those damn plastic wire taps.



There has got to be something better? I was thinking about just soldering the wire and using shrink wrap. What do you guys use? I am no stranger to a soldering iron. I was an electronics tech for 7 years and they still give me grief!!



So, what do you guys use?



Thanks



Phil

 

[PRyker]

shrink wrap = heat shrink tubing... Sorry, just getting tired.

 

[NPloysa]

I've used a few with success. However, some are a major PITA and will not lock cause the blade gets stuck. I would solder!

 

[Paychk]

Posi-tap





http://www.posi-lock.com/newproducts.html

 

[jcbrown]

Electrical Wiring...

Crimp non-insulated butt connector, silver solder, and dual wall heat shrink. If you need multiple connection's, I use sealed splice connector.



NEVER use scotch-lock connector's.

 

[Rman]

scotch lock's stink, I always solder everything it's easy.

 

[Dkuhlman]

I like the crimp, solder and heat shrink solution. The problem with strictly mechanical connections is even if they work at first, they tend to corrode and fail over time.

 

[y-knot]

Like the other poster said, Posi-Locks from Swenco products. They are great and pertty much idiot (bullet ) proof. But they are not for the cheapo, get by with as little as posible type guy. Their stuff is good, and it will cost you plenty. I recently add a good size assortment to the shop and it set me back 800. 00, so be prepared.

 

[rbattelle]

I like crimp-and-seal butt connectors. They come pre-wrapped with dual-wall shrink tube. I use 1 size larger than my wires so I can fit 2 wires in one side (for a splice). Works like a charm, and it's water tight. I get them from www.waytekwire.com .

 

[PRyker]

Thanks for the responses guys. I decided to solder blade type connectors on and use that this time. I did take a look at the posi-tap and posi-lock connectors and they do look good so I ordered some. Whew... they are not cheap! But I do like the idea of a watertight easy to use fool proof connector that allows me to tap the wire without cutting it. I will try them on my next project... running lights on my headache rack.



Thanks



Phil

 

[Joe G.]

If I want to tap into a circuit I solder it. Then I use shrink tape. I get the stuff at the marine hardware store. It has some heat activated adhesive that seals the taped joint against water.

 

[PKleine]

A long time ago, after messing with those POS scotch locks, I decided that if it's scotch, its for drinkin'. Now I solder and heat shrink or tape my connections. No more problems (unless I run outta scotch)

 

[MadMike]

Hey, Just a little plug for a company I represent. (Hope it is OK)



NSPA manufactures Sealed Electrical Connectors in three varieties. All three have adhesive lined heat shrink on the outside.



Crimp & Seal



Solder & Seal (No crimp)



Crimp, Solder, & Seal



No separate solder or heat shrink needed. It is all built into the connector.



Available at your local Fastenal (1400 locations) and many Napa Auto Parts stores.



Call NSPA for a local dealer near you if needed.





http://nationalstandardparts.com/electrical.htm



MadMike

 

[Joe G.]

Mike,



A couple of questions.



1. if it is one connector how does solder and seal work? I would think that soldering would activate the sealer.



2. do these connectors come in a "T" variety so that a wire can be connected to another wire without cutting the connected to wire?

 

[MadMike]

Originally posted by Joe G.

Mike,



A couple of questions.



1. if it is one connector how does solder and seal work? I would think that soldering would activate the sealer.



2. do these connectors come in a "T" variety so that a wire can be connected to another wire without cutting the connected to wire?

Joe,



The solder in our Electralink line (solder / seal) is inside of the adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. Thus just insert the wire /wires and apply heat via a heat gun or small micro torch. I like to hit the ends of the heat shrink with a little heat first to hold the connector in place on the Electralink as well as keeping the solder inside the heat shrink as it melts. The solder is a low temp melt and flows at about the same temp as the heat shrink reduces diameter.



The Multilink ( crimp / solder / seal) solder is inside as well but with the added step of crimping before heating.



The Krimpaseal line is a crimp and seal system and is the most popular among our customers. It has the widest variety of connectors and is the most economical to use. Most people find that once the adhesive inside the heat shrink sets and locks onto the outer jacket of the wire that this is all they need to prevent wire pullout and seal the connection from moisture.



To answer your second question if I understand correctly. Take a look at the Krimpaseal line on the website mentioned at the three and four-way connectors. I think this may work for you but I am not sure.



If you would like I can send you a sample bag which includes a few samples of each style with instructions. Just a little payback hopefully for all the help the dieselheads on this site have provided this newbie.



MadMike

 

[Joe G.]

Thanks Mike.



I looked at the web site. I didn't see anything that allowed tapping an existing wire without cutting it.



The multi-wire connectors on the web site all have a joint and require a wire to be cut to tap into the circuit. I have have trouble with those corroding at the joint on a fish boat. Salt water is a very hostile environment for electrical connections. The ability to tap a wire is what sells the T-tap kind of junk things.



The way I do butt connections is to crimp the connector. Then solder. Then a marine shrink tube.



With t-tap type of connections I strip a short place in the tapped wire. Then I wrap the tapping wire around that and solder it. I use marine shrink tape to seal it.



Thanks for the offer, but I think I will continue doing connections the way that I am. I like to be able to examine the solder joint before I cover it with shrink.

 

[Rman]

Just curious on these heat shrink connections. How do they hold up to the heat extremes right by the engine block?

 

[PRyker]

Posi-lock and posi-tap

I got the posi-lock and posi-tap connectors and WOW... great quality connectors. Very positive connection and they do seem to be extremely water tight. They are soooo simple to use and fool proof. I would HIGHLY recommend them to anyone needing to splice into or join a wire together.



Thanks



Phil

 

[Rman]

PRyker, those posi taps look very nice for tapping the pump wire with. Does the pump wire slide into the connector... or must you insert the end of the "hot" wire through it as it seems in the picture? I'm sure it doesn't but thought I'd ask since you have them now.

 

[PRyker]

There is a groove in the top cap that you lay the wire into and then the cap just screws on to the body of the connector. Very simple. Then the wire that you want to run to your accessory goes into the other end.



I have never tapped the pump wire before but if it is as simple as any other tap I think that this would be the best way to do it without cutting the wire and soldering in the tap and then heat shrinking. I am not a fan of cutting the wire if you do not have to.



I was an electronics tech for 7 years and if you do not want to cut the wire then this is the best connector I have seen to tap it.



Thanks



Phil