2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission I Have Had It! I Think

[50rocket88]

Here is where I am at. I bought a 99 Ram CTD in July with 65K on it from a dealer for $18,900. I took it in a few weeks later for a clicking in the steering wheel that I had to fight with the dealership to cover the cost, it ended up needing a whole new steering column because the bearings where shot. The truck has never been plowed with, and was used to pull a camper (well... from what the dealer told me anyway). I now have 67k on it and the truck is falling apart! My initial problem was that when I would turn the truck right and try to stop, the brake pedal would push back at me and I wouldn't be able to stop! I replaced the belt and looked for bad lines and still couldn't find anything so I broke down and took it to the dealership to have a look see. I got the call at work from their mechanic saying that my truck is really screwed up and needed at least $2K worth of repairs done. . WHAT? He says that the P/S pump is shot (leaking) and the left wheel bearings are shot, the right ball joints are shot, the right brake line is not routed right and is getting piched (the whole cause of my braking/steering prob) the rotors are in need of replacement and the calipers should be replaced as well as a brake job. Now... I know that they are paid flat rate by the job so they want to find as much wrong as possible so they get paid, but I am not made of money. Luckily I am a friend of a friend who used to be a dodge dealership mechanic and he agreed to come up to the dealership and look at the truck w/ me. He agreed that the ball joints and brake line are in need of replacement. So I left to job to him. Even the dodge dealer mechanic said the p/s pump is around $460. 00 and a real ***** to replace so the leak could probably be taken care of w/ some sealant type p/s fluid. The left wheel bearing isn't worth replacing. . yet, so I am left w/ ball joints which I got for $60 upper and lower from advanced auto parts and I got the brake line from NAPA for $28. I just got a call from the friend who is working on it and he said that when taking the hub off for the ball joint replacement that the bearing broke apart and that he called advanced auto parts and they could order one for $170. 00!! Here is my problem. I don't make a ton of money, but I do love driving my truck... so most of my money goes for my truck payment and insurance for this truck. I was talking to the dodge mechanic and he says that this is typical. . That most all used 4X4 trucks that he sees were bought new, beat to ****, not maintained, and then traded in when the problems started to occour. I am starting to agree with this concept. Whoever had this truck didn't maintain it very well, but my friend says that these are all regular maintence issues that need addressed more often on heavy trucks such as this. My problem is that I don't have the money to keep up with this truck, it's bad enough w/ the payment and insurance let alone the thousands that these trucks supposedly need to feed them and keep them on the road problem free! So I know that the p/s pump will go shortly, and the left wheel bearing will go soon, and that the ball joints on the other side will need replacement soon, and my doors are rusting out on the bottoms..... IS THIS TRUCK WORTH KEEPING??? I am at my wits end and am seriously considering selling it. I owe about $13K on it and could probably get $17-$18K selling it outright. . I am guessing. I love the motor on this truck and have never had a problem w/ it, just the dodge truck falling apart around it. I am just very frustrated and need someone to talk me off this ledge of selling it after the necessary repairs are done to get her saftley back on the road and in selling condition. I guess I am asking if these trucks are in constant need of expensinve work to keep going. . or if I am just in that stage where everything falls apart and I should be good after this... thanks for reading all this and I appreciate any given advice, Josh

 

[NUTNDUN]

I say sell it, now that you know what you are looking for take the money from the difference from selling it and use it towards a down payment and get another one and make sure you check all this stuff out first. Try to stay away from dealerships, as you are paying their mark up and have no history on the truck.

 

[GFoley]

If you can get 18K for it, let 'er go, and get another one. I bought mine new, don't beat it to death, do maintain it, and hove 160,000 miles on it without anywhere near those types of problems.

 

[DBentley]

I say sell it to if you aint got spare money every month for the usual stuff most of us have to repair to keep these beasts on the road. I have a 96 and it was well maintained but i have sunk over 6k into it over 2 years for just parts since i do all labor my self. These trucks seem to be like a boat and get real expensive to keep up. I do like the truck but it costs me $$$ to keep it going. Thanks to tdr members and the great advice on repairs and maintanance I will keep it for many more years.

 

[champspa]

take the 18k and run , find something you like , don't by a truck from a dealer unless it's new

 

[bmoeller]

Sounds like it could be a money pit. I'd sell it.



I've been fortunante with my truck. I bought it with 139k on it. Now has over 193k. The only things I've HAD to replace were the tires, 1 set/ brake shoes, shocks and exhaust and a cruise servo. The #10 plate took the turbo at 179k. Everything else has been BOMBs. The transmission was a want and need. Glad I replaced it. Do have a litle rust starting to take care of now, too. Just surface yet.



Good luck. Hope you find a good one, if you sell this one.

 

[scotmartin]

I sold my 99 also. It had been a constant money pit since I first got it 2 years ago. Take the money and run, I did.



Scot

 

[JGK]

Josh,



To this point every response as has been "sell it" and go find a new one. Yeah, you could put the money in it and get drivable, but you'd be broke and it would take a lot of time and hassle.



I'd say, go with the flow. Sell it and get whatever you can out of it. Even if its at a little loss, the time saved is worth the $. Figure your per hour value and the number of hours you'd invest getting it all fixed and compare. The easiest way is if you worked the same amount of overtime hours at your job as you'd have into to it to get this thing fixed and compared the two, would you be ahead working the overtime or ahead fixing the truck? If you'd be ahead working the overtime, do so and get it fixed by a shop. If not, dump it.



Then go find another one knowing now what to look for. Don't get discouraged. When you get a good one (and they are far more common than you might think), they are a kick in the pants to drive.



-Jay

 

[MAX A/C]

Josh, if it makes you feel any better, I bought my '01 with 100K on it. Evidently, the previous owner was real hard on brakes (towed a trailer for work)--took it in for a brake job, and it needed new rotors X4, new calipers X2, and rebuilding of the rear calipers, to the tune of $1,600. Fortunately, the ball joints are still good. Track bar is shot, but I've got the '03 upgrade to put on.



But now I have a "new" truck as far as brakes. What I'm saying is, once you fix the problems, you'll have a new truck in those areas; and treated right, those areas should last well over 100,000 miles. Any truck with 75,000+ plus miles (okay, yours is a little lower, so should not have all those problems) is going to need work, depending on how it's been treated. If the truck looks like it's been somewhat taken care of (undercarraige not all beat up, same for body & interior) the work you're doing now will last you a very long time.

Scott

 

[50rocket88]

thanks

Thank you everyone for your response... I think that the majority rules to sell it. I agree. . now that I know what's wrong with it and I know what to look for in other trucks... I can use better judgement when checking out newer trucks. I will be more careful next time, thanks again everyone for your advice... Josh

 

[Jschafer]

when you get to looking for a different truck do some searching on this site as different years have different problems, Ball joints and brakes are a issue on all second generation Dodge 4x4s one issue that comes to mind is the "53" block I guess you don't want one of Those (YOU might have one now).

One thing I will say is that the majority of the real problems with these trucks you are already dealing with, the only other one that comes to mind is the lift pump on the 24 valve. One last thing I have done a lot to my truck however it has over 300k on it and I wouldn't be afraid to drive it anywhere tomorrow

Good Luck

 

[AMink]

I've been lucky w/my '97. Haven't had anywhere near those problem. I guess if I did, do I let a perspective buyer know about all the problems? I think I'd feel kind of bad dumping it on someone. Of course, if you can get that dealer to buy it back :-laf . On the other hand, someone is going to end up with it anyway. Good luck!

 

[50rocket88]

Problem Still Not fixed!!

Well I spent $700 on new ball joints, a new brake line, and the rotor/hub/bearing assembly, because it's only sold as one piece(thanks dodge). My braking problem of ABS kicking on when braking and turning right is still there. My mechanic now says that the left wheel bearing is in need of replacement because we hooked up the drb computer to it and drove it around and the front left abs sensor was acting differently than all the rest (not reading as fast as the others). I fortunately get a discount on parts because he used to work for dodge and the assembly will cost another $350. 00. Now what should I do?? I just spent $700 on the previous work that was supposedly going to fix my rig and now I am being told an other $350 will do. I am definately selling this truck when I get the problem fixed, so should I just bite the bullet and dump the cash into the front left hub/bearing/rotor assembly and be done with it or does anyone else think that the problem lies elsewhere? Thanks for letting me pick your brains

-Josh

 

[Holysmokes]

Be careful when you sell it(see my post on "no more dealers") I know you said you are thinking of selling it outright but too often people give up and just trade it in. Im kinna in the same boat as you are. I have to get a transmission installed and have my doors / fenders realigned. There are some other minor things as well. The up side to all of this to two points.

1. If you owe 13k you have either got a pretty good payment or a high payment with not long left on the loan. Why start over with a higher payment?

2. If you do the repairs they will be done right and you will have that piece of mind and not have to wonder "has this been done,who dun it?"

 

[JoshPeters]

I'd be more apt to say the sensor is bad... . and that's much cheeper. The Hub/bearing assy is just a toothed wheel. How does a toothed wheel go bad?



I'm gonna say Don't sell it. ANYTHING you buy used is going to have issues. No matter how close you check it. Take a deep breath. Fix the things that are safety related, and drive it. ALL the doors rust at the bottom. If you cut open on that "didn't" have rust, I'd be willing to bet it actually does. Balljoints, brakes, these are normal wear items. I recommend becomming a bit of a backyard mechanic. Talk to your buddy that's working on it and see if he's willing to help teach ya. Heck if your in MN I'll help teach ya. I have an automatic trans for our trucks laying on my garage appart right now... . getting ready to go back together.



Josh

 

[Jschafer]

You can get the bearing assembly cheaper at a auto parts store and it will probally have a lifetime warranty on it. Even with a discount you are most likely paying way to much for the parts. My wheel bearing on my 94 non ABS was under $200 ABS is more but not that much and mine has a lifetime warranty, same with the Ball Joints and steering parts on my truck.



One more thing if it is a sensor problem than it is most likely NOT the wheel bearing, but the sensor.

 

[50rocket88]

ABS sensor question?

Thanks everyone for your replies, I do have a question about the sensor. I know everyone is saying that the wheel bearing can't be at fault if the sensor is not reading correctly. But. . isn't the sensor stationary and the wheel is moving, so if the wheel bearing where shot and allowing the wheel to wabble ever so slightly wouldn't that throw off what the sensor is reading and alert the ABS to activate? I am not quite sure how that all works. I saw the toothed gear on the wheel and I saw the sensor but how forgiving is that sensor to wheel play. Thanks again, Josh