i have the scoop on the lift pump problem

[Mopar-muscle]

i haven't put the second pump back at the tank yet , been trying to drop the tank so i ca add another line , trying to keep the original fuel system intact as a backup .

i did install the carter P4601HP last nite , and also removed all the banjo except the last one as that is where i get my gauge reading from . idle pressure is now up to 13-13. 5 psi at idle , 11 psi cruising down the road and i haven't been able to get a reading on WOT as it is freakin snowing again , will have a good indication of how it is doing sunday on the dyno .

i installed the pump in the stock location using factory wiring and factort fuel lines , i sawed the banjo end off the line going into the stock lift pump and put a 3/8 compression to 90* 3/8 npt , need to switch this to a straight in fitting . also to use the stock location you need to swap the mounting bolts of the stock pump . i still have a 7 psi hp carter pump that i will probably put in to feed this pump before i move the 15psi pump back where it bellongs , but like i posted earlier carter changed their mind and said to put the 15 psi unit back at the tank . i'm going to post another htread on this pump thing as this topic is getting a bit winded and confusing .

but preliminary tests show the 15 psi pump not dropping below 5 at WOT with the
PE on level 3 ,DD3's but no VA , that was before the rear broke loose and kicked out when it was raining #ad


[This message has been edited by Mopar-muscle (edited 03-30-2001). ]

 

[GGades]

Just wandering about testing fuel pressure on the newer trucks with the test port on the banjo on the pump inlet fitting (schraeder valve?) I made my own test setup out of an R12 air cond. charging hose with some minor mods. I've obtained all the hoses and fittings to dump the banjos, but how do I add in a tee or some other doodad to plumb into an electronic fuel pressure sender without adding a great big wad of fittings and reducers wich is prabably going to damage the12x1. 5 fitting into the pump? Any ideas? Presently I have a Banks Power Pack with DDIII's in the box on the bench. Fuel pressure at idle is 14psi, sustained wide open throttle is 8psi

 

[tobaccogrower]

mopar:
i didn't get much of a chance to talk to ya at the meet. i ordered the TC and VB from DTT. will you send me an e-mail with your home phone (lost the number). . jimmylargo@yahoo.com... . thanks. . james

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1999 RED LOADED 3500 QC DUALLY. CAP,331N. DUNLOPS,ALPINE AUDIO,PSYCHOTTY AIR WITH K&N,BANKS POWERPACK,275 injectors, VA CPC, soon come. . DTT TV and VB. more in store????

 

[Mopar-muscle]

jetson , was this with the stock pump ? i was seeing the same thing as of late with mine , replaced it the carter HP in the stock location , stock line from the tank and the problem is gone , my readings are similar to yours

haven't had the chance to put in the second pump but it made some good numbers on the dyno with the -6 line and banjos removed except the one on the injection pump . pressure never went below 5 psi

 

[Jetson]

Yes, I still have the stock pump on the engine. The Carter HP is by the tank. I haven't done anything with the banjo bolts either. I guess removing or drilling them would drop the pressure a little based on what you reported. But right now I have to run both pumps. You can't run just one when they are in series like this. I have seen a setup with a Y leading to 2 pumps and then Y'ing back to one fuel supply line. That would be a nice setup for insurance if one pump went down, or you could run both if you needed extra flow.

 

[Jetson]

Due to circumstances almost beyond my control, I now have 2 lift pumps. A Carter HP by the tank, and the stock pump. This is temporary until I figure out what to do with the lines when I remove the stock pump.
With both pumps running, I have about 18 psi(guage only goes to 16). I can't make it drop below 16 psi. I'm afraid this is too high, so I need to get rid of the stock pump soon. These readings are with 275's, a VA and boost module.

A note of warning to those who don't have a pressure guage - my truck ran fine on 0 psi, (maybe 0. 5 psi). If I had run it hard, it could have trashed the VP44. I started cycling the key several times before I started the truck in the morning, until I saw a steady 8 psi, then I ran it easy for 15 minutes. If I pushed it too hard before then, it would drop to 0 again. The rest of the day, the pump worked fine, usually 12 psi when idling cruising, 5-6 psi WOT.

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99 2500 QC, LWB, 5spd, 3. 54 limited slip, Intense Blue, 275HP Injectors
Tow Lite trailer
96 KTM 360 EXC
99 Durango 4x4 360cid

 

[pwr2tow]

I was under the impression that drilling out the banjo bolts would increase pressure, did I miss something?
Ron

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1999, 3500, 6x6, slt, auto, 3. 54, Qd cab, ISB cummins, towing 2001 26RKSS Tahoe 5th wheel, 1999 120hp 1800 bayliner.

 

[Mopar-muscle]

ron actually opening the bolts will increase pressure to a point , once you remove the restrictions and increase flow the pressure will either not change or drop a little . the bolts though opened are still a source of restriction becase of the abrupt 90* turn the fuel needs to make .

jetson opening the banjos could possibly increase the pressure . though you would have a restriction ,the fuel will pass thru the pump as there is a flow path with it not spinning .

what you could do is find a supply house that sells parker fittings , hydralics place , get some of their push lock hose -6 , 2 straight -6 female hose ends , a weber 12mm to -6 male adaptor , a 3/8 npt to -6 male end and elimnate the pump on the engine .

 

[whathill]

Injector pumps, lift pumps and engine - I've had them all. Three pumps and a lift pump later, the truck is acting up again after two weeks. All dealer replaced. Have read all the posts and believe that you all have the answers, but the dealer can only do what Cummins authorizes them to do. Use Delo 400, serviced regularly, the only thing this truck doesn't get is a kiss goodnight. Been driving truck for 20 years and know how to drive a Cummins. Answers???

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1998 1 ton dually, 24 valve, 5 speed, 354 rear end, K & N filter, exhaust brake, 4" complete exhaust

 

[csutton7]

whatever pupmp you buy move it closer to the tank and power it off the OEM pump wire thru a relay---then if you want you can upgrade the lines to your preference or leave 'em stock---chris

 

[whathill]

Chris, is your response in regards to my pump problem three times over? If yes, thank you. My truck is still under warranty, and i'm at the mercy of the dealer on what can or what they will do thru star(cummins experts at dodge). This has really been frustrating,since my prior truck was a 96-12 valve that had brake problems. Unable to correct them, dodge bought the truck back and i upgraded to my 98. Now all these engine problems. How do we convince DODGE to listen to us! I've read all the posts in all areas, and you guys really got your act together, and i'm proud to be part of this group!Chris, any more help from you or anyone else would be greatly appreciated. Have many friends with power strokes, and they all have had no major problems. PLEASE, keep me a mopar man Thanks Dennis

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1998 1 ton dually, 24 valve, 5 speed, 354 rear end, K & N filter, exhaust brake, 4" complete exhaust, 70k miles

 

[Mopar-muscle]

whathill , cummins has nothing to do with what DC is doing , at some point you may have to "TAKE THE BULL BY THE HORNS" and fix it yourself . DC is not going to move the pump , and the pump is being overworked due to placement . i swapped out the factory lift pump for the carter 15 psi HP pump and i no longer completely loose pressure . when i get it back i'm going to do a couple more experiments before i finalize the setup , but if youwant to mimic the setup , you're going to have to do it yourself .

 

[Arcticat]

Whathill, is your engine stock? If so I think you could easily get your OEM liftpump to live longer in the stock location by modifying the restrictive fittings in the stcck system, seven in total. It's an easy lob that souldn't take longer than three hours, and you can do it in segments if you don't have the time to do all at once. The advantage of this is that you retain a 100% stock appearance and if your pump goes again they will replace it. Not so if it's back at the tank and you have hacked into the stock lines to do it. Go back in the thread and read about the banjo bolt modifications, there are five, and also about the line between the lift pump and the filter housing, there are the other two restrictive fittings. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, email Mopar Muscle, he may be able to help you out, if he doesn't have the time, I may be able to fix you up too. One way or another we will help you out.

 

[csutton7]

Whathill--yes, to the lift pump--now that's 3 injector pumps(VP44) and 1 lift pump you've had changed-if that's true---bummer---did they replace the VP44 before they figured out the lift pump vice versa or what order did they replace things would be the proper question----the lift pump location is a design flaw by DC as stated previously--electric fuel pumps are pushers not suckers--close to the tank is where they're designed & supposed to be--DC chose not to put them close to the tank & who knows why---
because you're still under warranty and it sounds like you want to keep the stock fuel system intact you're going to have to deal with potential fuel pump issues in the future -which means going to the dealer when things go kaput---

now if you become your own warranty station then you can do as you please, but IMO since you've had a problem with injector pumps & lift pump you probably don't want to do that yet--3 injector pumps,WOW, that's not fair--
Is the truck running ok right now and you're just sick and tired of worrying about it going tits up again and don't want to deal with it?

If yes to the above-sorry to say you're going to be dealing with it at some point as these electric things will go south-maybe tomorrow maybe in 5 years or longer-who knows--

even our setups will need pump replacement at some time as everything does--we're just trying to get the setup that will live long and provide us with what we need on the HP front--

how much warranty do you have left?

chris

 

[whathill]

Guys, I've been out of town and will be leaving for the weekend in the next hour. Just wanted to thank everyone for their replies and will get back to you early next week. The truck seems to be running o. k. for now, but for how long. Can't believe that I have to be the one with all the Mopar lemons and was really looking forward to trading this one in for the new crew cab, but I hear that it won't be released until next year at the earliest. Hard to keep the faith when all these problems keep happening. But what else is out there? Will talk with you next week.

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Dennis--1998 1 ton dually, 24 valve, 5 speed, 354 rear end, K & N filter, exhaust brake, 4" complete exhaust, 70k miles