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I have to bring this up again, oil drain plugs.

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Oilguard

I tried the Geno`s super plug. WallyWorld tore it to pieces. Went back to the factory plug. WallyWorld destroyed this also. I don`t go to WallyWorld anymore. Ordered another plug from Geno`s then started reading bad press about this plug coming loose. The plug sits on the tool box. Had the oil changed and now there is another leak:( . this is getting old. What plug are you members using that works. Has anyone had any problems with the plug with the lever on it to drain the oil? Is there aa better system?



Please help. :eek:
 
Politics aside, I would not take a Cummins to WallyWorld. I have been running the lever for a couple of years. I don't go off roading per sey but am out in the fields with my truck. Early on, there was an issue about this plug not allowing all the oil to drain. The modification was to drill four holds through the threaded area where the holes would be flush with the inside bottom of the oil pan. This may have been resolved?
 
Originally posted by JSmith

I tried the Geno`s super plug. WallyWorld tore it to pieces. Went back to the factory plug. WallyWorld destroyed this also. I don`t go to WallyWorld anymore.







Im surprised Wally Who? didnt wreck the pan in the process... . and did they precharge the oil filter... most likely not--something to think about.



I've never had problems with the oil plug or pan... but I did all of it myself. Had the Geno's superplug too.



I've been leery about the lever kind..... Im up here in WI and I go snowbucking alot. Not to say it doesnt work though in normal conditions.
 
Motorhead World is the only one who touches MY truck;) . I wouldn't trust some lube jockey to work on my truck. I'm running the stocker plug with no problemo. I'd almost guarantee that they don't pre fill the filter and I would bet that they slop oil all over when they pull the filter off because they aren't smart enough to put a zip lock bag over the filter before they remove it.
 
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You can always wire the valve shut so it won't accidently be opened and just cut the wire to drain. Seeing JSmith has a 12valve, remember that the P700 needs upward of two hours to completely drain. Being mostly an evening shift worker, I like to arrive home, place the pan under the truck, open the drain, throw a new filter on the seat so I do not do something real stupid and go to bed. Next morning, the filter would be nearly drained by vacuum. Nary a drop and no plastic bag required.
 
I drain my oil the same way, overnight. Which brings up another question- since the oil siphons out of the filter how much good are you really doing to prefill the new filter?
 
Originally posted by illflem

I drain my oil the same way, overnight. Which brings up another question- since the oil siphons out of the filter how much good are you really doing to prefill the new filter?
I don't think it is relative. Notice how long it takes for the new filter to soak up oil when you prefill. Is there a momentary oil flow reduction to fill that? I don't know but I would bet the engineers have looked at it. Cheap insurance I say. Like the manufacturers recommended service schedules, do you use "A", "B" or a combination to your own liking?
 
I have had the valve drain plug on my truck for over 2 yrs now and not one leak, not once did it ever try to open by itself sice it has a springloaded arm in a notch so unless the spring breaks, there is no way it can open. Also the benefit of the plug is it drains at a reduced rate so you can catch it in those 15 qt pans from autozone. I did the 4 hole drill and I think it does drain all out, just takes a few min. more... . This is the best plug I have ever gotten. The new one is lower so it will drain all but all the older ones are tall and have to have the hole fix.
 
I have the "heavy duty" without the magnet, is that the super plug? Any how, I just installed it a few weeks ago and it had a tendancy to seep around the gasket (it's a Cummins oops on the early '94's, some were warrantee repaired, some not). The "recommended" torque is around 40 ft-lbs. It still seeped! So I tightened it "snug" and it stopped. It's over 60 ft-lbs by quite a bit but it didn't get torn up.



It stopped seeping at less torque that the last time I changed oil (with the stock plug 3 years ago), then I had the bottom of the pan twisting!!



Are they installing it with an inpact?
 
Same as Rusty, even have the same sealing washer after 41 oil changes on one truck and 22 changes on the other. Have a hard time figuring out why folks have a problem or require a different type of plug. Of course I'm not going to Jiffy or Wally's though.
 
Oil Drain Plug

After 45+ oil changes over the last 180,000 miles with no leaks,I see no reason to use anything but the factory plug and sealing washer. These have all been done by me with the torque set at 60 ft/lbs initially and later at 40 ft/lbs when Dodge changed the specs.

I did shear the original plug about 140,000 miles. The 60 ft/lbs could have weakened it or maybe it was just an anomaly.

Awhile back I was at Cummins Northwest (Spokane). They told me a story of a local guy who had Jiffy Lube change his oil. They tightened the plug until the flange inside the pan let go. This was on a 4wd so you have to raise the engine to get the pan off.

Lying on my back changing oil may not be the most fun I have but at least I know it is done right.

JMHO
 
The new drain plug from Dodge/Cummins has the rubber seal permanently attached and torque rating (stamped on the plug) is 35 foot pounds. I'm only on the fourth oil change so it's way too early to tell how durable it is. On my last visit to the dealer I went ahead and picked up a spare, it was around $10 I think.
 
Wally World

Originally posted by OL Ratlr

I wouldn't trust Wally World to air up my tires. :{



Ditto!



The only reason I went to a different drain plug was because of the amount of torque required to deform the drain plug gasket to get it to seal. The other option is to replace the pan, not really what I want to do on my 4x4.



The plug is currently torqued to about 75 ft-lb or so, the stock one (I read about the flange shearing off the stock plugs here 2 days after the last change) was well over 100 ft-lbs. I really felt lucky that my new synthetic didn't end up in the driveway after reading about the stock plugs.
 
I've never paid anybody to change my oil since 1966. Done them all myself. Changed the oil in my tryck about 31 times in 185k, and everyone of those was by letting it drain at least 3 hrs, but usually overnight. I always drain it hot, & I always preload the filter. It will syphon 2-3" out, if it sits a while. I just cracked the flange on the original plug, so bought one from Cummins for about $5. 00 or so, and it came with a copper gasket. I never saw a drop of leakage from either this plug or the old one. Torque a drain plug? You've got to be kidding. I'd have to get a torque wrench for that.
 
Drain plug

After reading post concerning the drain plug cracking, my brother checked his plug on a newly bought 96 by lifting up the seal and finding the plug cracked all the way around the head. This plug was not leaking and he would have not have found the problem without reading this forum and lifting up the gasket to look underneath! He installed Geno's lever style and used a tubing clamp for insurance to keep the lever from backing off. He is very happy with the results!
 
Today 06/04/03 I went to the local Cummins West and go a factory drain plug and washer with rubber on both sides. Installed the plug and washer, it still leaks:mad: . I contacted Geno`s about a plug I have sitting on the tool box, I will send it in for an exchange on the lever style. This is a real pain. :{
 
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