Here I am

I may have to get a 68RFE in my new truck.

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Stuart,

I believe you're going to find over time that you are going to spend more time and money on your RV trying to maintain it at an RV park in cold weather than the expense of having a 20amp electric run 400ft from your home. That's all it takes to keep batteries, tank heaters up. You can even run one AC when prepping for trip loading it on hot days.

Just saying....

Cheers, Ron

Exactly.

Winterize the camper and treat your batteries well. Don't just leave them plugged in all the time without checking them.

With a small pancake air compressor it's cheap and easy to winterize yourself.

I would probably run a 30A connection if you're going to the expense thou. That way you can run a single AC in the summer if you want.
 
Exactly.

Winterize the camper and treat your batteries well. Don't just leave them plugged in all the time without checking them.

With a small pancake air compressor it's cheap and easy to winterize yourself.

I would probably run a 30A connection if you're going to the expense thou. That way you can run a single AC in the summer if you want.

Exactly agree 30amp... 20amp is bare minimum for me with many ACs running over 15 amps. It's getting more technical to verify if his converter is smart battery charger/ maintainer, because a standard dump one can fry your batteries over time.

Believe it or not I have my DRV plugged into dedicated 20amp GFCI svc in the mancave. It's fine for running residential fridge, converter, and one AC when loading in hot weather. Wouldn't be any problem running 50amp service... shop has dedicated 100 amp service.

Stuart,

Are you copying all this? Any of it?

Cheers, Ron
 
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If you have a residential Frig you are screwed. If so you need a generator to keep the batteries charged that feed the Frig.

RV Frig then you can run heat as mentioned but for only so long before needing to re charge batteries. I would NOT leave truck connected as you may drain it's batteries and have a no start condition. I can't tell you how often but connect truck and set to high idle for one hour. Before hooking truck check battery voltage then after one hour disconnect truck and check voltage again. This will give you an idea how much the truck is helping.
 
Ok thanks.
yes I wanted to use the heat with the truck running you no idling and with the batteries yellow for batteries so we'll see what happens I don't know how you do it though but okay I'll figure it out I guess.
 
Ok thanks.
yes I wanted to use the heat with the truck running you no idling and with the batteries yellow for batteries so we'll see what happens I don't know how you do it though but okay I'll figure it out I guess.

No need to keep the truck connected.

To use the furnace you use it like you do the rest of the time. It always runs on 12V.
 
Check to see if you have one or two batteries in your RV. You need to be adding distilled water to them monthly, so need to know this.

I only kept truck connected to batteries for 24hours without running the truck. Your truck batteries should NEVER be run down with all the electronics.

Cheers, Ron
Gel cell batteries eliminates the need to check levels, I actually have three Gell Cell batteries, 1 in the boat, and 2 in my Arctic Fox, that way I can recharge my boat battery when rotating batteries. Works great, knowing I have a fully charged battery for my boat.
 
Gel cell batteries eliminates the need to check levels, I actually have three Gell Cell batteries, 1 in the boat, and 2 in my Arctic Fox, that way I can recharge my boat battery when rotating batteries. Works great, knowing I have a fully charged battery for my boat.

Except they dry out too, especially in high temps/ fast charge/discharge conditions. At least with a flooded cell battery one can maintain it, if vigilant.
 
Should I muddy this up by mentioning central battery water fill system? I like mine... Anyhoo, you're right, probably not. Keep it simple.
 
Large eye dropper every 3 mo with distilled water is a piece of cake for me. I have heard more than once that the auto water system has failed!

OH, I am a full timer.
 
Stuart,

I've mentioned in our telephone conversations and here we are always happy to help you, but you need to pull out your RV manual that has info SPECIFIC to your RV. It's easier explaining to you when you have a book with pictures to help better understand. Many times you make comments or ask questions that we provide general answers to because we don't have the information you have in your manuals. You should have a maintenance schedule for your RV daily, weekly, monthly, etc... annually. You need this info at hand and READ the manual.

Go to the battery compartment and tell us what you have. You likely NEED to water your batteries ASAP if you haven't serviced them yet.

Please confirm you are doing this so we can help better.

Cheers, Ron
 
Stuart,

Now that we've talked about general facts, what it is it you want to do? Park down from your home and leave the heat running to keep water pipes from freezing? If so, check your RV manual to see how easy or hard it is to winterize your unit. If easy and that's what intent of asking about running propane heat, winterizing, even for a week or two, might be best answer.

Anyhoo, before we chase down too many rabbit holes, tell us what you want to do, and maybe we can come up with the best advice.

Cheers, Ron
 
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