I need help fast! Have you installed your own steering stabilizer?

[Arcticat]

Well I don't understand how to get the old one out if you can believe that. I took the bolt and nut out of the axle mount, and took the nut off the tie rod mount. Now what? That bolt on the tie rod does not want to budge! The truck has only 15000 on it so you wouldn't think it would be so frozen. I tried heating it, pounding it through, nothing works. I've got all my tools out in the driveway and I would like to get this in tonight instead af admitting defeat and putting the old one back in (Also installed RS9000 shocks and a front lift - more on that at eleven). Plaese reply asap if you have any ideas. Thanks a bunch

 

[Big E]

The "bolt" on the tie rod is actually a tapered stud, simular to a ball joint stud. I used a pair of pickle forks, one on each side, and had to beat the hell out of it before it popped out. A friend of mine used a ball joint puller on his. He said he thought the puller was going to break before it finally fell out.

Good Luck

 

[Mick2500]

Arcticat,
Do you have a torch? Even a good propane bottle will work. Remove the nut almost all the way (leave it on the threads just enough to protect them from your hammer)Heat the surrounding metal and then SMACK the nut with a good sized hammer. Used to do this all the time in a front-end shop. Never had to reuse my parts so be careful you don't ruin the threads.
Mick
<font color=blue>

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2001. 5 2500 ETH/DEE, QuadCab, 4X4, SB, LSD, 3. 54, SLT+, Sport, Intense Blue PC/Agate, Tow Package, Camper Package, 'DC' Bed Cover, Sliding rear window. Totally STOCK!!
On Order 4/28/00
Arrived 9/14/00 !! #ad

My Truck

[This message has been edited by Mick2500 (edited 04-09-2001). ]

 

[PUFF00]

I used an air hammer on the one in my Jeep.

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2001. 5 3500 QC 4X4 6-speed HO 3. 55 black
1998 Jeep TJ black http://www.nm4w.org/members/puffer.htm

 

[Dane]

I used a pitman arm puller, would have never gotten it off without it... Thanks to another TDR member for that tip #ad


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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

[illflem]

I had to use all three, a pitman arm puller, heat and a big hammer. What I thought was going to be a 5 minute job turned into an hour.

 

[Joe G.]

WOW! I'm glad that my front end stuff is still good after 163K miles.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[big barney]

I just installed a Rancho stabilizer yesterday. The bolts came right out. One of the sleeves that came with the Rancho were to small. Had to use one from the stock stabilizer. No problems at all. I have a 1999

 

[Arcticat]

Well I called it a night and just bolted the stocker back in. Thanks for all the suggestions, looks like I'll have to go get a pitman arm puller. I did heat it with a torch before I posted, hot enough to ignite a piece of wood on contact. Then I beat the hell out of it with a hammer, but no go. Might I just ask why they use a tapered stub for the job? Must be another "any problems replace the whole assembly" items. In the manual they just refer to everything as the steering linkage. I guess they expect you to swap the whole thing out if you're stabilizer starts leaking.

 

[Jayman]

If you are trying to remove a tapered stud (i. e. - ball joint, tie rod end, etc. ) from its hole there is a much easier way to do it.
Pounding on the threaded end seems to be an exercise in futility and will only occasionally break them free.

Take 2 big hammers and place one on the _side_ of the female part, then give the opposing side a hard hit. Sandwiching the part between the hammers allows for a more solid blow. The tapered stud should fall out of its hole. It may take a couple of tries but it will come loose. What you are doing is momentarily flexing the hole so that the taper will release.

I have seen this work when even a pickle fork wouldn't take them apart.



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2001. 5 DARK GARNET-QC-SB-ETH-DEE

 

[Driftwood Ram]

I went through it all and finally gave in and took the truck to a front end and brake shop. I do not know how they got it off, but the new one was installed when I went back to pick up the truck.

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96 2500 4x4 Driftwood auto DTT TC & VB Warn 4x boards pyro,boost,trans temp on a piller, mag hytec trans pan, Reese 15k 5th wheel hitch Pulling 200 Alfa Ideal 31RL

 

[illflem]

Another thing to look out for when installing a steering damper or getting an alignment is that the coupling on the tie rod's larger side isn't pointed towards the damper. When the wheels are pointed straight ahead it looks like there is plenty of clearance, but in a sharp turn the coupler will hit the damper possibly gouging it. That's the reason I had to replace mine.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)