I Need some advice.

[hhranch]

I am new to both Turbo Diesel Register and to Dodge diesel ownership.

I have a 1992 3/4 ton intercololed diesel 4wd automatic and will be towing a 25 foot 5th wheel. Dry weight 5000 pounds. Most of the time I drive the truck solo in the foothills of the Sierras.

The truck has 122,000 miles on it. It has a Banks 3 1/2 inch exhaust and a K&N filter. Just installed. It's getting about 16mpg which I believe is low. Is it? The previous owner told me he had the pump settings set to provide additional fuel. I don't know how much.

I am using Hydrotex Hy-Torque (Universal) transmission fluid and wonder if I would be better off with a synthetic like Red Line ATF-3 (Chrysler)?

When the truck is hot and has run a while and I start from a stop there is a shudder.

Could this be related to the transmission fluid?

Also what would be a reccomendation for a shock absorber? I don't want too stiff a ride. Or to spend a fortune on shocks. I just purchased a front stabilizer bar but have not yet installed it.

Also when the truck is cold and I am turning hard to the left the truck seems to "jump" left. (I know this sounds weird) It does not happen all the time just occasionally? Any ideas what's going on?

I have other questions which I will save for later for later.

I appreciate any advice.

 

[Philip]

Welcome to the TDR



Now if you look towards the top of the page on the left side. You will see a button that says user controll panel. On this page you can setup a profile of your truck.



Now on the shudder. If you truck has the 6 inch blocks between the rear axle and the springs. Dodge had a TSB out on that problem. You need to put a 1/2" spacer between your carrier bearing and the mount.



The jump you feel could be a u-joint that was setting in a bind when you turned and it caused the jump. Or you could have some worn ball joints.



You might want to check your steering box mount. They are prone to cracking.



The trans fluid. All I use is the stock trans fluid.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

hhranch,



WELCOME TO THE GROUP.....



No point in telling you how much help and support you'll get in here (lots), lets just get to the helping part.

First let me encourage you to get some guages if you don't have them now.

EGT guage = exhaust gas temp.

Tach

Boost pressure

Trans. temp guage



First of all your mileage question... .

In my opinion 16 Mpg US is a bit low. Running empty even with an auto, you should be seeing about 18-20 mpg.

Now, the pump tweaking will have a fair bit to do with that, but still, I think you're a bit low... not alot mind you...

Very important to mileage is: air filter, exhuast system, pump settings, pump timing, auto trans. condition, fuel filter, injector health.

The filters are easy one's, just keep em clean and in the case of the air filter use a high flow like the K&N or the AFE.

Fuel filter, very important, if it gets dirty of contaminated from poor fuel you'll have problems which include mileage changes.

Tire pressures also count.

Fuel additive that cleans the system is a good idea every couple tank fulls. You want to keep you pump, lines, and injectors clean.

BTW, our fuel injection pumps are cooled solely by excess fuel being returned thru it. Using some kind of additive/treatment can't hurt.

A once over of your pump and checking/setting the pump timing, fuel settings etc. will likely help your situation a bit.



The transmission is basically a 727. If you have the OD unit, which I believe you do, it is still a 727 transmission with some updated parts inside and an OD unit attached.

transmission fluid is open for conversation... but I'd suggest that you use either the chrysler 7176 type 3 as recommended or you can safely use Dexron type II or III. The Dexron will provide firmer shifts than most normal type III oils and particularly the synthetics. If you want a smoother shift use the normal type III or synth. type III.

Your trans. should have a FULL service, and that includes the checking and setting of your idle line and WOT line pressures. If the transmission pan has no signs of abnormal wear particles, the oil isn't coming out burnt, etc. then: have the pressures set to the upper end of the chrysler spec. No matter what you do the torque convertor in these trucks is not very efficient. The TC is really designed for a gas engine that turns higher RPM's. Our engines do all their work at low RPM's. Because of this mismatch the truck always seems to be slipping. Tweaking the pressues will help the feel a bit, and help to reduce slippage to some degree.

You need a transmission temp guage for safety since you tow.





Normally the shudder you mention is due to the center steady bearing. To correct that condition you need to install a 1/2" spacer block between the bearing and the under bed mount.

It can be picked up at DC. It is a well known fix for this problem and I believe there is a Techinical Service Bulletin (TSB) about it too. Check the TSB section on the main web page, the TSB number may be listed there.

If the shudder is indeed temp sensitive then I would suspect trans. slippage. You may need the transmission serviced or even repaired if a normal service and adjustment doesn't help.

Normally a condition like you describe is a loss of internal pressure somewere. This causes the clutch pac(s) or band to slip due to insufficient holding pressure(s).



Shocks, I've used the Rancho 9000's on mine and they work quite well. The front mount can require a little persuasion, but they fit.

You can adjust for ride/firmness with these.



The steering "jump" you describe sounds like your steering components such as upper/lower ball joints, etc. may have some wear that is allowing this to happen.

What happens is when the wheel is hard over, the slight excess travel in the system allows the wheel(s) to kick over harder and hit the steering stop bolts on the inside of the brake caliper area.

Look underneath your truck... you will see two studs, one on each side, that act as 'stops'. If the bolt ends are showing marks or are shiny then that's likely what's happening.

If it's not too bad, and you don't have any significant tire wear or uneven tire wear, you can go a while yet without repairs. Don't wait too long though, it can get worse quickly.





On the up side, 122K is barely broken in for these ole horses... you can expect a long life and lots of fun if it's been well kept/serviced.



Glad to have you. . I hope that has been of some help... if you don't know, just ask, we've all been there before. .



Regards, Bob.

 

[hhranch]

Thank you for the information. The truck has six inch blocks which I will be replacing with shorter blocks to enable the 5th wheel to be level when towed. I am considering putting in 3 1/4 inch blocks and air bags. How imortant is it to put in blocks with the stops on them?

Is it still advisable to put in the 1/2 half inch spacer? As for the jump I believe the U joint theory is a good one. Would they affect steering even if the hubs are free wheeling? I have noticed that the u joints feel different when they are cold vs warmed up (hubs locked) still in two wheel drive.

The front alignment was checked and is ok and the ball joints linkage etc was given a clean bill of health.

Will the anti sway bar I intend to install make a difference? Steering stabilizer shock?

Has anyone had any experience with Hy-Torque transmission fluid by Hydro-Tex?

The fluid was added at the reccomendation of the transmission shop after they serviced the transmission and gave it a clean bill of health? As I mentioned it is a "universal fluid" and I wonder if it has the friction modifiers that the 518 clutches may need.

I will get the timing and pressures checked on the pump.



Thanks again for the help. This website opens a whole new world of information.



Ron

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

I believe my front stabilizer is also a Rancho dual shock system.

Works good for me, no interfering with anything.

I do not know anything about the ATF you are using, but in general, the more friction modifiers you have the better it is in handling temps, but also allows more "slippage" for clutch pacs and bands. That is why the shifts are smoother.

More 'aggressive' fluids have less modifiers and make for firmer snappier shifts.



bob.

 

[Philip]

The truck has six inch blocks which I will be replacing with shorter blocks to enable the 5th wheel to be level when towed. I am considering putting in 3 1/4 inch blocks and air bags. How important is it to put in blocks with the stops on them?

The TSB said to add a 1/2" of spacer. With you dropping the block to a 3 1/4". I would still add a 1/4" spacer between the carrier bearing and mount. The problem is the angle of the drive shaft is to close to the max angle a u-joint can handle with out vibrating. When you are loaded do still you have the shudder?



The air bags are a good idea. I see no reason to kill the ride by heaver springs. With the bags on it. I don't think the stops would be an issue.

Will the anti sway bar I intend to install make a difference

Probably not. But the peace of mind is worth it.

Has anyone had any experience with Hy-Torque transmission fluid by Hydro-Tex?

I have not had any dealings with that brand of fluid. The main concern is does the oil meet The Dexron 2 or 3 spec sheet. If it doesn't time to get it out of there.

This website opens a whole new world of information.

That it does. Now for the bad part. It can get expensive at times. LOL

 

[Case500D]

Jumping to the left

hhranch,



I would also like to welcome you to TDR. It will get expnesive once you start tweaking on your truck, but you will have one of the best made trucks out there. Anyway, you talk about your truck jumping to the left when turning. Another idea would be to check the front wheel bearings and the u-joints in the front axle. If you have a u-joint that is frozen up, it will bind up and make the steering go bonkers on you from time to time. I missed a wreck by 6" because of this. Just an idea worth checking into. This summer I got 22 mgp out of my truck with a Banks 3. 5" straight pipe, a K&N air filter, and a 16cm turbo housing. Pulling (with mods listed in signature) my empty 33' gooseneck I get 15-16 mpg, and fully loaded at 12-16K I can get 12 mpg. I am running the Rancho RS 9000 shocks and really like them, I think they are worth the money. Finally I would strongly consider going to www.techauthority.com and ordering service manual for your truck. It will be about $90, but will pay for itself very quickly.



Jeremy



BTW, I am running Dextron III in my transmission and it shifts nicely.