Well, it seems as if you're auto trans is already running on borrowed time... but that aside, here's what I'd try:
Try running Smarty up higher, like on #8, and back the torque number on TST down some. You can maybe run #9 aftermarket injector/aftermarket turbo program to lessen the timing just a bit, if you don't get too much audible timing rattle when supplementing with TST.
Running #8 or #9 on the Smarty, set the TST around 2/0 for starters. Setting the TST on 3/1 produces more power on the dyno, but will drain the rail on the road, and thus cause higher temperatures.
If you're running #2 Torque on the TST for the low end power, try bumping up the Smarty to wild, and lowering torque on the TST. This seems to be smoother power, less smoke, and keeps temps lower as well. However, your transmission is the weak link here.
Also, if you can run a Beta 4. 4 program, it will eliminate the temporary dip in rail pressure when getting on the throttle, and will help keep rail pressure up.
I have a pretty similar setup as you do (except I'm adding the TS MP-8 for a little pressure), and I made 554 hp/ 994 tq running Smarty 4. 4 beta, Tst 3/1, and TS MP-8 100%. On the road, temps will peak at about 1350°. Dropping the TST to 2/0 peaks at around 1250°.
One more thing, if you want to risk the stock head bolts, or plan on studding, run the boost up a little higher, to maybe 55 psi or so. That's a big turbo you've got, and 55 psi should be well within it's efficiency range (at least according to my drive pressure gauge).
Hope that helps some... --Eric
p. s. As a disclaimer, I wouldn't really try what I suggested until you bottom tap and stud, get a built transmission, and address the freeze plug blow-out issue. And even then, no gaurantees...
