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I put 38 & 1/2 gallons in my Short Bed today!

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I put 38. 44 gallons in my Short Bed today thanks to David Kelley AKA Spooled-up fuel tank vent kit.

The added range on every fill up will be welcome plus mpg calculations should be more accurate now that I can see the fuel in the neck. If the above link doesn't show his kit you can contact him here



When I was done I measured in 3 gallons to get to the fuel station and then pumped in another 35. 44 gallons.



A word of caution. . and I know this has been discussed before is those open tank vents on top.

#ad


After removing the tank I siphoned it out and mopped up dirt through the fuel tank sending unit hole with some clean rag's.

#ad




Maybe it was pumped in there or maybe the vents let some in, who knows so I added a push on VW style fuel filter to each vent.

#ad
 
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HDhillon said:
How long did it take you to do this?
I drove till the overhead DTE read 0 and there was still 3 gallons left, I measured it in a marked fuel container that I siphoned into.



The install was pretty straight forward, David provides good instructions and pictures. I didn't watch the clock but would guess 2-3 hours. I did this mod on my 03 and after having it on that one I am glad I finally made time to get-r-done on the 05!
 
Its easier with two people, but I did it by my self. Read David's instructions before you start and have everything ready. This install is NOT rocket surgery.





This install IS the best thing I have done to date, cheapest too! I did one cross-country round trip before the mod, and four round trips after the mod. I was an idiot to wait to do the mod and should have done it before the first trip!!
 
As it's been discussed before 2 people make it easier, but it is possible with only one. The hardest part is deciding where to drill the hole for the bulkhead fitting, then convincing yourself you have it in the right place.

Very eay and the added range and quicker fill- ups is the plus.



Michael
 
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When you guys dropped the tank did you have any trouble disconnecting the fuel line from top the tank. I tried to install one of David's kits and just couldn't get the fuel line fitting to come off the nipples even with the tank lowered to the end of the long bolt threads (I even read David's instructions). Any tricks to help me out?

bob r...
 
BRohloff said:
. Any tricks to help me out?
I removed the drive line for more working room and used a pair of bent needle nose pliers to squeeze the plastic clip that the line snaps on to. A flashlight laying on top of the tank helps too. Un-doing the red plastic safety clip for the electrical connection tested my patience some.
 
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The fuel lines can be a little trying. If you study them and the desciption you received in the instructions it's only a matter of time. Took me about 5 minutes to get the hang of it.



Hope This Helps

Michael
 
Michael



When are you coming over to help me put the kit in? I'm going to need the extra mileage, because once waterfowl season starts, there's no time for filling up!



X
 
Will give it another try but at the time i thought " why not just cut the fuel hose at the end of the nipple and drop the tank where the disconnection off the nipple can be made". " Suspect there's enough extra length to allow for the 1" hose loss. Then when reinstalling use the same clip, once one can understand it's workings or just use a trusty small screw type hose clamp"

... ... ..... Dumb idea?

'rrr
 
I think if you cut anything you also won't be reusing any parts as cutting will damage them. I guess you could cut the lines and then replace with rubber that is Diesel safe but then you have to hunt that down and also peel the plastic line off the steel pipe its attached to on the frame. More easy to just squeeze the 2 plastic tabs "in" and slip the line off the sending unit.
 
I would stay away from cutting any lines under there.



Another way to get at those fittings is to get the nuts on the tank strap to the end of the threads so you can see what's up there. If you look down the inside of the frame rails where the fuel lines are, you'll see that they are held to the frame with clips. If you can undo the metal lines from the clips, you should be able to lower the tank with the lines in place. Be VERY careful not to bend any metal fuel lines doing this. I have never attempted this myself, so do it at your own risk. It looks like it may work though.



I've spent as much as 1/2 and hour getting that one fuel line disconnected. If you keep working at it, it eventually comes off once you get the right combination of pinch and squeeze and pull.
 
Fuel Tank Mod

I have two Questions;

1. Do we have to remove the fuel tank sending unit for the install? and

2. How big is this whole we need to drill in the tank?



This may be my first mod.



05 CTD 325/610 HO, Wraper is Atlantic Blue / Silver, Reg Cab Long Bed SWB, 2500 SLT

4X4HD, Auto 48RE, 3. 73LS 11. 50RA LT265/70R17, Factry Bed liner, Dealer wheel well,

Bodyside Molding, DEE ZEE Tube Step, Plastic Intercooler, TowPkg
 
EStoller said:
I have two Questions;

1. Do we have to remove the fuel tank sending unit for the install? and

2. How big is this whole we need to drill in the tank?



This may be my first mod.



05 CTD 325/610 HO, Wraper is Atlantic Blue / Silver, Reg Cab Long Bed SWB, 2500 SLT

4X4HD, Auto 48RE, 3. 73LS 11. 50RA LT265/70R17, Factry Bed liner, Dealer wheel well,

Bodyside Molding, DEE ZEE Tube Step, Plastic Intercooler, TowPkg

Yes to question #1 because you will need to tighten the bulk head nut down from inside or if using the nut on outside of tank a part of the bulk head inserts from inside to outside of tank, thats the way I installed mine for a better internal clearance for venting (more flush mount so to speak).



I believe if I remember right the hole is 1 3/8 diameter. Sorry don't have my instructions in front of me at this time,so I'm not 100% sure on that diameter.



Tony
 
Thank you Tony,



Would a circle saw in a drill motor work?



ED



05 CTD 325/610 HO, Wraper is Atlantic Blue / Silver, Reg Cab Long Bed SWB, 2500 SLT

4X4HD, Auto 48RE, 3. 73LS 11. 50RA , LT265/70R17, Factry Bed liner, Dealer wheel well,

Bodyside Molding, DEE ZEE Tube Step, Plastic Intercooler, TowPkg
 
I used an 1-5/16" hole saw and then went around the hole with a carbide bit in a die grinder to remove just a tiny little for a nice tight fit.

In the first pic, if you draw a straight line from the vent to the right and another straight line down from the filler hose, that is where I drilled.



That surface is at a slight angle but is more flat on the inside of the tank for a good seal. It is also a little larger in that area so if you are off to one side some, your fitting should still seal well.



I should have taken a pic after I drilled. I might be able to fit the camera in there for another view.
 
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EStoller said:
Thank you Tony,



Would a circle saw in a drill motor work?



ED



05 CTD 325/610 HO, Wraper is Atlantic Blue / Silver, Reg Cab Long Bed SWB, 2500 SLT

4X4HD, Auto 48RE, 3. 73LS 11. 50RA , LT265/70R17, Factry Bed liner, Dealer wheel well,

Bodyside Molding, DEE ZEE Tube Step, Plastic Intercooler, TowPkg
Yes! this is what I used a hole saw or some call circle saw made to attach to drill.



Tony
 
I took my tank down this weekend to do the mod, but haven't finished it yet. BOTH of the little factory vents, which were supposed to be plugged, were open. I just ran a 1/4 inch fuel line hose between the two of them and secured them with screw-type hose clamps.
 
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