Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) I think its the apps...

[Weidner]

Truck really acted up yesterday. I have had a few run ins with my apps. The truck would all of a sudden just idle, no throttle at all, in gear or neutral. After re-starting the truck all was good. This happened probably 5 times in 2 years, all on long drives and always set code for apps. I have also been experiencing some surging during regular driving. I was waiting for a definate failure to spend the big money for a new apps. I think that happened.



Now yesterday I was driving along and lost throttle pedal only in certin spots. If I would move the pedal up and down I would only get a resonse in one or two spots, sometimes near wot and always about 5% throttle just touching the pedal. But the cruise control could control the speed up and down after I got it going. That was a fun drive. I pick up the apps at lunch and will report as soon as I get it installed.

 

[TurboDog]

Did you get the new apps installed? How much trouble is it? Also, how is it performing? Did you have to re-calibrate it by mashing the pedal to the floor three times with the key on, but truck not running? My truck is showing some of the same signs you are having, but only when I try and hook up my van aiken box or a boost fooler.

 

[CSnyder]

Weidner, I had the same problem last month and fixed it by replacing the apps. Changing them is a breeze... disconnect the batteries... remove the black plastic cover and remove the cruise and throttle cables... then the six 10 mm bolts... unplug and wham you're done... reverse proceedure to install... I chewed the parts man out for the cost of all the "Dodge" **** they added to a good engine and ended up getting the apps for 350 plus tax.

 

[PRout]

Good luck on this. . Im also interested in the outcome because mine drops to idle about once a day now. Usually can just stomp the pedal to the floor once and it will come back. Only get a code 1693 & check engine light, but its pretty annoying. Have to keep it in mind when making left turns just in case.



Im also hoping it is only the APPS.



Glad to hear its not hard to replace.

 

[Weidner]

still having problems HELP??

The apps went in like a breeze, took all of ten minutes or so. I left the cables off for a while then re attached them and calibrated the new apps. Still ran like crap, bad throttle response. I have a dead spot in the sweep and it will not build rpms like it should. If I hold it wot. it will very slowly rev up, then when I let off the accelarator it goes up a little more and gives a little burst (like when letting the clutch out). I then replaced the fuel filter, just in case. Still same problems, the fuel pressure is good and suprise... this lift pump still worked good enough to prime up the new filter.



No codes besides the apps voltage and companion code. I think maybe...

1. I did not leave the bat cables off long enough

2. another sensor like map or crank

3. electrical plug somewhere with bad connection



Anyone have any ideas? I am over an hour late getting on the road to deer hunting for a few days and I am taking the wifes BMW. Its going to look kind of funny with a white tail rack sticking out of the trunk. I am going to make the truck (with the batteries disconected) sit in the garage as punishment and maybe it will behave when I return.

 

[TurboDog]

Wiedner, Sounds very similar to my situation the last couple weeks. I had same symptoms, but low voltage to the MAP and the companion code p1693.

I replaced the MAP and it did not fix it. I unhooked the VA and my boost fooler and did not fix it. Finally I left the batteries unhooked over night and reset the APPS the next morning and everthing ran fine. I tried differnet combos of hooking back up my va and/or boost fooler and each time it puts the truck back into the no power, no boost mode! Also each time I have found it takes several hours to get the ecm or what ever to reset with the batteries unhooked. I was even thinking of replacing the APPS even though I have no code saying it is bad, now after reading your post I don't think I will.

Try leaving the batteries unhooked for several hours and then hook them up and reset the apps, you may even try unplugging your box and boost fooler too while the batteries are unhooked and leave them unhooked while you try it the first time. I do not know anything else to try at this time, but I do have the truck running correctly again, minus the VA and boost fooler.

 

[Weidner]

still a problem...but a new code set.

Well after letting it sit for a few days with the batteries disconnected I decided to give it a try as soon as I got home today. The truck reved up smooth with no problems. A quick trip around the block and no problems, so I went back to the house to get the cell phone just incase the thing died on me.



The truck after a mile or so, started the bucking and sputtering again. I could control the throttle with cruise until I had to stop, then it was hard to get back up to speed. I limped it home and now I have discovered another code, 0236 "map sensor too high too long" - problem detected in turbo wastegate.



Now Turbodog, you have me scared this will not go away if I replace a map sensor. My boost is normal (It looks the same as it always does as far as I can tell) but the truck just will not run. I cant find anything physicaly wrong with the hoses or turbo ect.



Anyone have any ideas? Do I load up the shot gun and through a MAP sensor at it? It does not matter if the comp is on or off, so I dont think that has anything to do with it. It is weird to me that I could have smooth opperation with the cruise control set (no stumble while maintaining a speed) and using the button on the cruise verses the throttle pedal it accelorates with no stumbling.

 

[wcjp]

A friend had a similar problem with his 99' Auto. The vehicle speed sensor was the problem. It might be called something different. He took it to a shop for diagnosis/repair. They were done in two hours. Cost was also very reasonable.

 

[TurboDog]

The MAP replacement might work for you, but all I know is my truck will run great as long as I don't plug anything (boost fooler) into the MAP. Going on second week now and all is fine, minus Van Acken and boost fooler. I even loaded up the hypertech to level three and the truck ran fine, but there again, it does not physically plug into the MAP. I am still thinking of replacing the APPS at some point, or taking it to a performance diesel shop and have them look it over with thier scanner.

 

[pcarlson]

This is related a bit, but I posted about a idle miss I have when warm. Well if I completely unhook the EZ the truck will not miss. If I just leave the boost fooler portion hooked up it will miss. I replaced the MAP and all I got was alittle better running truck but still a miss unless the EZ is completely off. i sent the EZ back to Edge for testing and they said that it was fine.



Interesting that different problems seemed solved with the chips removed.

 

[jknaack]

Does anyone have a part number for the apps?

 

[Weidner]

just an fyi, my truck is fixed now(6 weeks later) $1000 bill for electrical trouble shooting and a new ECM.

 

[KOREDISH]

Brand New ECM

My truck does the exact same thing. At highway speeds upon acceleration I get the missing feeling. I've been reading for months about the issue. It seems that a lot of error codes point to the APPS as does in my case. Based on what I have been reading, I'm not convinced it's the APPS.



What was entailed in the electrical trouble shooting and how did they diagnose the ECM? Did you take to the dealer? How much is it to buy the ECM? I'm assuming also the ECM has to be flashed.



Here's another question. I live in CA and I have a CA truck currently. Can I throw a non CA ECM in the truck and does it have advantages?



I was quoted $528. 00 at my local dodge dealer for the new ECM. Part Only



Thanks



Keith