I WANT A 4x4!! EZ-Locker Answer?

[UKRugbyman77]

I want a 4x4, not a 4x3. I'm thinking about blowing a little mo-nay on a detroit EZ-locker, but I have absolutely NO experience on these lockers or differentials for that matter. Is it something I could put in? Is it even what I want? If I COULD put it in, how much trouble would it be, and lastly, what type do I need? Can anybody lead me in the right direction here?



Kick it up a notch!

 

[MoparToYou]

Can you say BOOM?



Seriously, with the torque your ETH/DEE puts to the ground, I would not go with one of the "lunch box" lockers such as the Detroit EZ Locker, or the LockRight Locker. The regular Detroit locker will be strong enough, but not the EZ Locker. An ARB Locker would also be strong enough, and would give you the option of unlocking the rear diff if you ever encounter a snow packed highway.



The EZ locker could be installed yourself, because it simply replaces your spider gears with a dog-tooth device that does the locking, but like I said above, I don't think it would be strong enough.



The regular Detroit Locker and the ARB Locker are complete units, with their own integral carrier, so your whole carrier is replaced. And as such, you need to take your ring gear off the original carrier and put it on the lockers carrier, so you would need to reset the gear lash, and pinion preload. Unless you are experienced at setting up gears, this is something best left to the professionals.



I've never put a locker in a Dodge Cummins, so maybe I'm wrong on the strength issue. But I have had a total of 3 ARBs, 3 Detroit Lockers, a NoSlip Locker, and 3 LockRight Lockers in various Jeeps and 4x4 trucks over the years.



And speaking of which: Does anyone know if they even make an ARB or a Detroit Locker for the rear axle in our trucks?



MoparToYou

 

[csutton7]

UK--I'm going to assume you mean the front & not the rear--I have an ARB in my front and love it-- the bonus of the ARB is that it can be turned on when you need it and turned off when you don't--lockers in the front make steering a real pain in the arse--thus the ARB is the fix all to this----plus the options are very limited on what will work for the front, so do throughly check out what you intend to buy because it may not work--



Mopar---I'm pretty sure they make the ARB for our rears..... chris

 

[Jim Norton]

UK if you go posi in the front you need to seriosly consider how you will use it,the strength issue of those that replace the spider gears has been brought up, also posi up front is hard on u-joints and the collar in the center axle disconect. for a daily driver and light of roading they will hold up,but in mud or off camber slope you'l find the truck goes where gravity points it I've had a couple of posi fronts with little trouble,but they steer awfull on hard packed surfaces. the ARB is a good unit but you still have the collar as the weak link. if you going to beat this thing of road you might want to check out www.dynatrac.com. they have kits to eliminate the center axle dis. and go back to the good old days of hubs you can control. if you dive into this let us know how it comes out,I'm considering the same thing but its to far down on momma's budget more sweet talk needed Jim

 

[HC]

And speaking of which: Does anyone know if they even make an ARB or a Detroit Locker for the rear axle in our trucks?

I know they make an rear ARB that fits mine, 'cause I've got one. How effective it is depends highly on the situation. With both wheels on gravel, or snow/ice, it makes almost no difference, because so much of our weight is up front that it really doesn't matter whether you spin one back tire or both. But crossing gulleys, or with one wheel on good surface and the other on slick, it functions just as one would expect from a locker. If I were getting more serious about off road capability, I'd have to shell out and get a front locker too; right now, conserving the cash for a little while.

 

[UKRugbyman77]

seems ARB answer

Looks like the ARB air locker seems to be the way to go. One more question. What kind of money am I looking at for the whole kit n' kaboodle installed? I was thinking it was about $500 for the locker, 200 for the compressor(?) and how much for the install? Also, how does the compressor hook up? is it electric or what?

Thanks!

 

[Okie-Go]

I have the loc-rite locker and love it. Cost was about 850 installed. I let a pro put it in. He said if I broke it I was doing something I shouldn't with the truck. This weekend in the pasture at my dads it worked and loved it. Dad says you better not go through there you will get stuck. I told him he as a tractor and did it any way. No problem and no get stuck. I have michelin highway tires.

 

[MoparToYou]

You do really need to consider the intended use here. If you break an EZ Locker or LockRight Locker is it because you were doing something with your truck that you weren't supposed to be doing? Yup. But how many of us haven't done those things anyway?



If you need the locker for mud or snow the EZ Locker or LockRight Locker would likely be strong enough. If on the other hand you may end up in a high traction situation, such as slickrock, or rock crawling in general, then you are going to need all the strength you can get. On a low traction surface (mud) it doesn't take much strength to get both wheels turning (because both wheels spin relatively easily). If you're climbing an impossibly steep, off camber, frame twisting obstacle of rocks, and the tire on one side of the vehicle is in the air, while the tire on the other side of the vehicle has 75% of the weight of the vehicle on it, then that is a different story.



So how much torque do these trucks put to the ground anyway? I'm going to make an estimate here.



505 ft. lb. at the flywheel, multiplied by the first gear reduction in the transmission, multiplied by the reduction in the transfer case, multiplied by the reduction in the differentials, minus power loss of the drivetrain:

505 x 6. 0 (?) x 2. 7 (?) x 3. 54 = 2,898 ft. lbs. torque



I'm not sure of the exact 1st gear ratio or the exact transfer case ratio in these trucks, so those numbers are wild ass'd guesses. Even with power loss through the drivetrain, you still have roughly 2,500 ft. lbs. of torque at the locker when in low range, and in first gear



What is the torque rating on these lockers? Do they even have one?



I've owned a number of LockRight Lockers, and never had a problem with them in low power, light weight Jeeps. But I've also been a trail leader at the Moab Easter Jeep Safari for fifteen years, and I've seen a number of them break.



I wouldn't even dream of serious four wheeling with my truck (it tows the Jeep) , but if I were putting a locker in something with huevos the size of these Cummins powered trucks, it would be the biggest baddest strongest locker on the planet.



Peace out

 

[HC]

Re: seems ARB answer

What kind of money am I looking at for the whole kit n' kaboodle [ARB] installed? I was thinking it was about $500 for the locker, 200 for the compressor(?) and how much for the install? Also, how does the compressor hook up? is it electric or what?

I think that's about right for the compressor; the locker will be 150 to 200 more than that; and the labor is somewhere in the range of $300 +/- if I recall correctly. The compressor is electric, and draws a pretty big load. You need to do some planning; where do you want the switches mounted? Mine are in an electrical box I added to the floor console, but up on the dash would be better if I had been willing to give up one of the spaces currently reserved as junk box cubby-holes. Finding a place to mount the compressor was also a challenge - I wanted it to be high enough to not get dipped in a stream or get a lot of road spray. I ended going to the K&N RE-880 filter, and mounting the compressor where the stock air box used to be. This is a great location; but, I was initially unhappy with the K&N filter until I added the foam pre-filter.

You really just need to get your hands on the ARB parts, and then look things over carefully to come up with mounting options that will make you happy. I was pressed for time, and feel certain I could have done better if not rushed. One nice feature of the ARB is having an on-board air compressor with more "kick" than those Wal-mart plug-ins.

 

[Expat]

Lockers

I had the limited slip, but wanted more traction. My first choice was to keep the lsd and put an ARB in the front (where the weight is). Unfortunately, this is difficult up front because of the spline changes Dodge made a couple of years ago. As of two months ago, ARB's kit still wasn't ready. You can theoretically go with new axles (Earthroamer did that), or you can go with a great but expensive Dynatrac. My shop tried repeatedly but couldn't make the axle conversion work. Fortunately, they didn't charge me for anything. In the end I went with a Detroit in the rear.



If you want something up front, I'd wait a few months and hope the ARB will be available. If you're willing to settle for a rear locker, I'd advise the Detroit over the Lock-Rite. No offense to Lock-Rite. I have one in my 85 Jeep CJ-7 and will probably put one in my 72 CJ-5. But every installer I've ever talked to said the Lock-Rite was best for light to medium duty use and lighter vehicles like my jeeps. Given the weight and torque of our vehicles, I'd feel much better with the detroit which every installer I know has basically described as "bulletproof. "



In the end, it's your money and your choice. Good luck with whatever you get!

 

[Blakers]

Given the weight and torque of our vehicles, I'd feel much better with the detroit which every installer I know has basically described as "bulletproof. "

I won a Detroit Locker at the 4 Wheel Jamboree at Indy last fall, but I never sent for it yet. I wanted to wait until I got my Cummins Ram. Now I have the truck, so... are there many choices for the Dana 70? How do I know which one to order? Any suggestions? Thanks.



Blake

 

[pcorssmit]

Originally posted by MoparToYou



If you need the locker for mud or snow the EZ Locker or LockRight Locker would likely be strong enough. If on the other hand you may end up in a high traction situation, such as slickrock, or rock crawling in general, then you are going to need all the strength you can get.

Mud and snow don't require as much strength, until you find something solid underneath and give a huge shock load to the drivetrain. While I've worn out and lost caps off plenty of u-joints rockcrawing, I finally broke my first u-joint in the snow. Snapped the ears clean off. Of course, it may have been due to the fact that I was spinning the 39. 5s at 4000 rpm in 1st gear 4 low with double Detroits...









I typed up big long response to this yesterday, but my computer ate it. I'll sum it up as: Drop in lockers suck, go with a Detroit if you want an automatic locker. ARB is (I think) you're only choice for a selectable at this time.



Pete

 

[Expat]

Blakers,



I don't know the part number since the shop ordered it for me. In any case, I think axle type and ratio make a difference. Probably the best thing to do is call whoever is giving you the award and giving them your truck specs. Then, if there's a problem it's clear who made the mistake.

Like anything else in life, Detroits involve compromises. They're strong, simple, and effective, but you'll get enough clicking and clunking out of the rear end to remind you that it's there. You should never be stuck with just one rear wheel spinning, though.



Good luck!

Expat

 

[Blakers]

Thanks for the advice guys on the Detroit Locker I guess when the time comes, I'll have to check with the distributer of the parts. I know the place is in Michigan, but can't recall the name - actually I think it is the manufacturer of the DL.



Blake

 

[STRALEY]

Locker for the front

I want/need a locker for the front I think. I will only use it when pulling sleds, I lose my 4th wheel pull at the end. Will it draw too much power from my truck though? Where can I get one also?



Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Expat]

front locker

CT425,



I was also looking into a front locker earlier this year. As far as I know, the ARB is your only real option at this point. You might check out ARB's website and ask if they have the new kit out yet. Otherwise you'll probably have to get new front axles. there was an article in 4 Wheel and Off Road recently about a new selectable locker called the "Ox Locker. " It sounds pretty good, although I have no idea whether they will come out with an app for our Dana 60 anytime soon. Again, it might be worth contacting them.



Good luck and let us know how things work out!

 

[pcorssmit]

Not saying it's for everybody, but I do know guys running automatic lockers in the front of 1500 Rams. One guy in particular does a lot of highway driving.



Pete