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I was gone for a while, Now i KNOW how much I need you guys!! LONG POST PLease help

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Computer problems causing my fresh rebuilt 68rfe to run bad???

Check Engine Light

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Ok, Along with the Air conditioning,(no power to HVAC control module, but the A/C light and Defrost light go on) The AC lines get frozen when i turn it on, but no air comes out. I replaced the blower motor resistor, I was able to tap the blower motor case, and sometimes it came back on. Another issue(s) I am having, Is the Exhaust brake light is on, but is not working. I brought my truck in 2 years ago, for a full ATS trans rebuild, with the co pilot installed. When I got the truck back, no exhaust brake.(shop said turbo was going). I still feel the power, hear the turbo(still feels fine). I have an H&S Black Maxx Tuner, EGR/DPF delete, no silencer ring, 5" exhaust from the turbo back. In the past few weeks( I have not been driving the truck as much as i used too), Sometimes, when I start the truck, It takes a few seconds to ("grab") in reverse? And the CEL is on, Sometimes the voltage light, It does not have issues driving forward after start up. ANOTHER issued I just started having is, while driving, the Overhead info center light comes on, says "see dealer now", and then check gauges, and the temp and battery gauges pin to the left, then resume to normal. The only code that keeps coming up, is "lost communication with radio". I have an aftermarket DVD/Nav from Pioneer. I also have pillar gauges(trans temp, boost,egr). I replaced the positive cable to the Alternator a while back, and didnt get to the negative. I do have a small amount of corrosion on the terminals, which will be taken care of today. My mechanic said that we should remove, inspect and replace all the electronic accessories with a marine grade isolated fuse block, and check the whole TIPM. We did have on blown 30A yellow box fuse in the TIPM. I am sorry for the long post, but I am trying to get as much info about the issues as possible.First and foremost, I try to keep the truck immaculate. The undercarriage is usually spotless. Where the copilot is located(driver's side frame near fender well), I had to remove, clean, and re solder the connection. I am just wondering if all of this is related. I put on dual electric fans 2 yrs ago, and the 50A resistor kept blowing, and the temps were too high, so we removed them. The trans shop said that the new trans should not go over 170 with no load, but while stuck in stop and go traffic, we have seen temps as high as 260!!! Aftermarket mods as follows:
H&S Black Maxx Tuner( highest tune on now)- S&B Intake--BD intake horn--DPF/EGR delete--5"turbo back exhaust/no muffler/no silencer ring--BD intercooler boots
8" lift with 22.5 ALcoas--ATS stage 5(5 disc converter,billet input/output shaft)--ATS Co pilot--Magtech deep pan--Doghouse diesel 1 piece driveshaft-- Borgensen steering shaft--carli front suspension upgade-- Steering stabilizer--EGR/Boost/Trans temp pillar gauges--Ceiling mount DVD--Pioneer DVD/NAV in dash--HID foglights--LED tailights--Whelen strobes in headlights--Whelen LED strobes in Tailights--LED tailights in bumper--Rigid LED roof mount light--Atomic LED Clear roof flashing lights--whelen blue emergency lights in interior windshield and grille--back rack with LED spotlights and whelen traffic advisor mounted to it--Whelen LEDS in place of cargo lights in 3rd brake lights--RECON fender LED lights--RECON interior lights--RAM mount laptop mount--Police scanner mounted in dash--blue LED mood lights in grille surround--grover fire truck air horn/with air compressor--Remote jumpstart cables located in front bumper-- Truck has PW/PL/PS/PB/power seats/ Megacab.

I am at my wits end. The only time that I have had the truck to the dealer was for 2 TSB's and a reflash. I do not believe that the shop had the truck reflashed at the dealer since(2+ years) I will be taking the emergency lights off and the jumper cables off today, ANY other IDEAS?? I really just want to have the truck to be "normal" again? With the same power and driveability, BUT i really want the exhaust brake to work. There are No reputable diesel shops that I know about in my area. My one diesel guy is good, but does not have the proper electronic scan tools. Should this truck go to the dealer? They do not sell alot of diesels, so that concerns me. So, In ending this long rant, I am looking for options on where you guys would start, or what you would do if this was your truck, with this list of mods. I will also say, that before I finally brought the truck to the ATS shop, my old local trans shop, after 2x blown trans, THAT shop said that the cause of the trans blowing was low line pressure, etc. I finally found the upgraded solenoid plate that was installed in the 2nd trans, and then that one blew 2 weeks later. Do you think all these issues are electrical related? Thank You so much for taking your time, and trying to help. I sincerely appreciate the effort.
 
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They look all electrical related. The TIPM is known to be a trouble area with corrosion or taking a limited number of over current situations like from a shorted trailer wire. A good automotive electrical shop that knows the TIPM is an alternate suggestion to the dealer. Those shops only do electrical repairs.

Some things you can do:
Test both batteries separately.
Check voltage drop across battery cables looking for internally corroded cables.
Check your grounds - and this includes taking the ground wire off, cleaning, and putting back on as corrosion is sometimes hidden.

"I replaced the blower motor resistor, I was able to tap the blower motor case, and sometimes it came back on"
In context of the other electrical problems I would suggest probing the motor connector and see if it has 12v to it. Suspect ground to the motor or intermittent corroded/burned connection.

The symptoms alone indicate a bad blower motor where tapping gets a worn or sticking brush to make contact. Bad motors burn out the resistor pack as the resistor pack needs the blower running to cool them off. Any current without the motor running burn out the thermal fuses. A locked up motor burns them out period. A intermittent brush doesn't flow current so the resistors don't get hot, but, it can arc and not spin the motor and pop go the hot fuses. A bad connection can also arc and flow current without spinning the motor. Having to replace a bad resistor pack means you should replace the blower motor.

You can try a new blower motor. (With the other electrical issues I would hesitate on doing this.) If all speeds work you are good. If any speed doesn't work the bad motor took out the resistor pack again and you will have to replace it.

BTW do check the Borgensen steering shaft as they are known to loosen up and slip off. Not necessarily from the set screws turning, but, the OEM stamped steel shaft deforming under the set screw.
 
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