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IC hoses loosening up...this is disturbing

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New Guy(Not Really)

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Ok, The first time I tightened them up was not to long after I got the truck, it was stock at the time with no guages. All of them were loose, made a slight difference in perfomance. Well I got my gauges and EZ box in a few weeks ago. I tightened all the ones you can get to from the top then. I noticed I got boost sooner and had more max boost. Well its already fallen off again. So today I tightend ALL of the hoses as they were ALL loose again. Am I a few french fries short of a happy meal when it comes to this subject? lol This should not have to be a weekly event IMO any thoughts?

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Clark
1999 2500 QC SB 5spd, EZ, Flowmaster 3 chamber, K&N Re-0880
1968 Barracuda Formula S Viper Blue 11. 98@112 Currently scattered all over the garage
 
Clark, I had the same problem after initial BOMB's. Just on the initial rubber duct going to the IC. I took it off and cleaned the surfaces that are in contact with each other when clamped as they were just a little slick. When reassembling, I made sure that I had that hose on as far as it would go and kept the clamps real straight as I tightened them (didn't check torque), and made them real tight. So far, tolerating 45psi without problem.

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Kurt Voss
********* 1999 2500 24VCTD AUTO 4x4 QC LB Laramie SLT, Luverne stainless steel nerf bars, 3 piece bug deflector, mopar mud flaps, Line-X bedliner, Blue Chip Fuel Management System (Premium), Psychotty Air, DD3's,TTPM, DD 4" exhaust, HX40, DTT VB/TC(91%) , Mag-Hytec transmission pan... YEEEEEHAAAA!!
2000 4x4 Z71 Tahoe, all options, rear AC, brush guard, nerf bars, mobile video system, after market 3rd row seat... the ultimate urban assault vehicle!
 
Went through this same problem with mine a few months ago and I can tell you from my experience the problem is not the backing out of the tightening screws on the oe clamps. Someone on this site said it was a harmonic viberation that caused the loosening. Whatever it was it was a problem and I had it slip off several times. Final fix was to double clamp it, no problems since then. I used the original clamp and added a hose type screw clamp up tight along side of it (marine stainless), as said above keep them strait and all the way on. Though I found a couple of the others loose at first it was only the one discribed above I had any problems with also (first clamp to hose below the turbo). 20K+ and heavy hauling and no more slipping off and I just checked it again yesterday, no problems. Hope this helps.

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Y2K RAM 2500 4X4 QC LWB Patriot Blue 5-Speed 3. 54 LS rear end, Trlr. Tow & Camper Packages, Westin Nerfs, Isspro Boost & Pyro gauges in a dual Pillar mount and DC Mud Flaps. Stock, ALMOST (so there is no mis-understanding, ALMOST refers to my Westin Nerfs & Isspro Gauges).

[This message has been edited by ldg (edited 05-12-2001). ]
 
Well is there a way to saftey wire the nuts? Drill holes in them and run safety wire? Worked on jet aircraft, regular aircraft, race cars so why not these clamps? Anybody tried this and does it work if you have?

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2001 RAM 3500 dually Quad Cab SLT, 4. 10 limited slip, HO 245 hp, 6-speed, dark garnet pearl coat, interior agate, All options except heated leather, added DeeZee brite diamond tool box, Linex spray-in bed liner, Lund hood deflector 3 piece smoke color, DeeZee brite diamond cab/bed running boards and TurboSaver (from Gino's) also Reese 5th wheel 15k hitch. No plans to bomb. This is my retirment vehicle currently pulling 21' 5er want to buy 30 to 35 for retirment.
 
How about using some lock tite on the threads?

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2001 RAM H. O. 6Sp 2500 SLT 4x4 Quad Cab, 4Wheel Disc, 4. 10 Limited Slip, Fog Lights, Muffler removed, Silence Ring Gone, Autometer Pro Comp 60# Boost & Pyro, Banks High Ram (Red), Cummins Red Valve Cover, K&N RE-0880, Skyjacker 2. 5 lift Class 2, 7218 Dual steering stabilizers, Custom Pro Fab Trackbar (sweet), EGR Flares (nice fit), Centerline Comet III 16x9. 5 with Goodyear MT/R 315/75R16, Smittybuilt stainless nurf bars, ExTang BlackMax tonno, THIS IS NOT A HOBBY, THIS IS AN ADDICTION !!! MAINLINING DIESEL !!! "I AM GLAD I DID NOT BUY AN AUTOMATIC, JMO"
 
Bad340fish,

Its not the nuts loosening up, its the elastomeric rubber creeping under the force of the clamp. Just keep 'em tight and eventually the rubber will take a compression set.

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2001 QC SLT SWB ETH 6SP JRE Spa Fabritech Bosch Edge
South Bend
 
Little Bill... .

Excellent point... . from my experience, it seems to make sense.

For the first 6k I checked these weekly, and did some tightening... . not loose, just had some room to snug up. Now, I don't notice anything.

However, some of these are a bear to get a small 11cm. wrench on..... Is there a secret??

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White 2001. 5 2500 ST, SWB, 4X4,QC, AUTO, 4. 10's, LSD, 285/75/16 On Weld Outbacks, PIAA 510's, Line-x, Tinted glass, Redline 85+, Blow-by-bye, RE-0880 & 25-0880,muffler fell off,level truck with 2" tuff country kit, Bilsteins at the corners, Di Pricol egt and boost, Mag-hytec "original flavor" transmission pan and Dana 70 diff. cover, Westin Step Bars,DTT TC/VB,yeee-ha,EZ, Custom Plate 24V-DSL
 
Same here... When I first got my truck, they were loose from the getgo. . I,ve tightened them thrice now, and they seem to have taken a set. . As far as being able to get to all of them, I loosened the clamps the first time and swiveled them around so I could have easy access. . although I haven't had to for a while.

PS in looking @ a bunch of truck, I've noticed at least 3 different kinds of clamps.

Colin
 
Some of those you have to be a contortionist to get to 'em #ad


Phil

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`01 2500,4x4,QC,LB,ETC,5 spd(DDX),HDtransfer case(DHG)
3. 55 LSD,Tow Pkg. ,Snow plow pkg. ,Forest Green PC,Mopar alum. side steps,Mopar mud flaps with Cummins logo,Mist grey seat covers,Tekonsha brake controller,Hadley air horns,Pacbrake.
Built in St. Louis
THE BIG GREEN MACHINE

Phil Stuart
 
I use a 7/16(very close to 11mm) ratcheting box end wrench... . works great to get to all of them!
Clark


[This message has been edited by Bad340fish (edited 05-13-2001). ]
 
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