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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) idle adjustment

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i have put a 97 12valve in a 1986 chev and i can't get it to start unless i touch the throttle while cranking. can someone tell me how to set the idle, maybe i am blind but i do not see an obvious way
 
Look at the rear end of the injection pump at the throttle lever. It is stopped by a screw with a lock nut. That is the idle adjustment. A 10mm wrench is all you need.
 
THX joe I took what ithought were several pretty good looks with atrouble light but it is hard to see with my hydrovac brake in the way. i did not think to look before i put in the motor. it figures it would be simple enough to make me look like an idiot.
 
I believe every vehicle ive ever owned needed to touch the gas a bit while starting. My 97 Ram needs a little fuel also. A touch of pedal and it fires up on one piston stroke :)
 
If the truck idles fine once its running but requires you to push slightly on the go pedal to get it started, then the governor springs are too tight (turn out 1-2 clicks) or the overflow valve is weak. Fast way to see if it's the overflow valve is to take it off the pump if its the 2 piece design and stretch the spring out to . 55" (this is only a short term mod) and re-install. If start up improves then you need a new overflow valve. If not, adjust the gov springs out 1-2 clicks.
 
Ive had the overflow out a few times. made sure it was over 1/2"in lenght. (But had no fuel gauges) Truck idles great. But heavy load, upper gears power seemed down.

Was not impressed with the 3gsk.

Called PDR, Said to go 1or2 more clicks in on the GSK. Would give me more low end tq and hit harder on top. 2 more clicks in, made truck stall easy on 2nd gear starts(giving no pedal) Backed spring nut out 1 click. (much better). 3 clicks total

Turns out, I had a loose fuel heater. (Big allen bolt)Must have been sucking air. Truck ran like I had a minor clogged fuel filter. Bought a fuel pressure gauge. Played with the OFV spring to get 22psi idle/30+ at 2000psi. All fuel pressures are good for now. Needed them fuel pressure gauges a long time ago.

Hmmmm... . Back the GSK off 1 more click for a no pedal start up?
 
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Unfortunately you had the problem of your fuel filter messing things up at the time. If your engine still needs some pedal effert to fire up, try turning out 1 click now that your filter problem has been fixed. ;)



JGrover,

I just rethought your last post. Do you mean you backed the gov retainer nut up 1 turn or is your final adjustment only 1 click in? If only 1 click total in, I would rethink this as you are living dangerously. Generally the best setting is inital click plus 2 = approx . 050" from top of gov stud to top of retainer nut... tighter means more than . 050" with a "pro" of faster fuel ramp up, with most times a "con" of higher than normal idle (adjustable) and having to push the go pedal to start engine. Your choice (live with it or turn out 1 click for slower fuel ramp but no pedal effert starts... . 1 click equals . 017" ).
 
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nascar mark said:
Unfortunately you had the problem of your fuel filter messing things up at the time. If your engine still needs some pedal effert to fire up, try turning out 1 click now that your filter problem has been fixed. ;)

Thanks Mark,

Not a fun job, But ... . Will do :D
 
nascar mark said:
Unfortunately you had the problem of your fuel filter messing things up at the time. If your engine still needs some pedal effert to fire up, try turning out 1 click now that your filter problem has been fixed. ;)



JGrover,

I just rethought your last post. Do you mean you backed the gov retainer nut up 1 turn or is your final adjustment only 1 click in? If only 1 click total in, I would rethink this as you are living dangerously. Generally the best setting is inital click plus 2 = approx . 050" from top of gov stud to top of retainer nut... tighter means more than . 050" with a "pro" of faster fuel ramp up, with most times a "con" of higher than normal idle (adjustable) and having to push the go pedal to start engine. Your choice (live with it or turn out 1 click for slower fuel ramp but no pedal effert starts... . 1 click equals . 017" ).

Im like 3 clicks in now

First install stud was 040 2 clicks in( stock the stud stuck up . 040)

Went 2 more clicks in (4 total) 2nd gear stall.

Backed nut out 1 click (3 total) 2nd gear starts much better Still need pedal for start up

If I back off nut 1 more click(2 total) That will put me back to the orig setup

2 clicks in . 040 stud sticking up

Im at 3 now,with a very sensitive throttle and a little foot for start up

I will set it at 2 clicks 040 with no pedal start. No worry about the black puff of smoke during startup. Embarassing when a female is standing next to ya :eek:

Thanks for all the imfo Mark

This is so much fun :) Oo. Sure beats plug and play :eek:

Wish I bought all of my stuff from Piers :)
 
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nascar mark said:
Unfortunately you had the problem of your fuel filter messing things up at the time. If your engine still needs some pedal effert to fire up, try turning out 1 click now that your filter problem has been fixed. ;)



JGrover,

I just rethought your last post. Do you mean you backed the gov retainer nut up 1 turn or is your final adjustment only 1 click in? If only 1 click total in, I would rethink this as you are living dangerously. Generally the best setting is inital click plus 2 = approx . 050" from top of gov stud to top of retainer nut... tighter means more than . 050" with a "pro" of faster fuel ramp up, with most times a "con" of higher than normal idle (adjustable) and having to push the go pedal to start engine. Your choice (live with it or turn out 1 click for slower fuel ramp but no pedal effert starts... . 1 click equals . 017" ).

Thanks Mark,

I had to backoff the GSK nut 2 more clicks to get a, No pedal start

Now its at inital click plus 2

Now no pedal start and no pedal off the line 2nd gear starts. Has no problem reving to 3200rpm in 4th uphill. Very nice. Thanks again Mark
 
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