Here I am

...if needing a new turbo, is this a good one?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Biting the bullet

DEF sensor failure at 25K

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hello again all,

In bracing myself for possibly replacing the turbo in the Ram 3500, I've come across the one at the following link:
https://www.autoanything.com/superchargers-turbochargers-intercoolers/61A7021A0A0.aspx
Can anyone tell me anything about the quality and dependability of this turbo being sold by aFe?

I haven't - up to this time - gotten up the nerve nor the time to start pulling the intake plumbing off for inspection of the turbo blades but will probably do that later today. Just trying to get other issues resolved before the dismantling process.

You all, may recognise this post as an addition to the one I'd shared about losing turbo boost while hauling a 4-car trailer loaded from Montana to Connecticut last week. During that trip, I'd gone from 22 to 23 psi of boost down to a maximum of 8 psi at 2600 RPM in 5th gear and down to as low as 3 psi at 2000 RPM in 6th. I also discovered at that time that I had (and still have) no engine brake. However, I DID notice my horsepower indicator climbing from 0 to 20HP when applying the engine brake at speed and RPM. I don't hear the familiar sound of engine braking nor the associated slowing sensation.

Oh, by the way, my last oil change sample at 194,000 and with 10,000 miles on the oil showed a higher than normal occurrence of aluminum suggesting an intercooler problem. I'm preparing to do another oil change and will pull a sample to see if there is aluminum in the oil again. Could there be a relation? I';m trying to work through, in my mind what could happen if a turbo goes out.

Did the exhaust side disintegrate and push parts in the exhaust system?
Did the intake side go out and push parts in the intercooler?
Can either of those thing happen at all?
What else could link the low boost, no or low engine brake issues?

Thanks for anything anyone can tell me.

Ralph
 
Sorry, but you have the cart in front of the horse....find out what is wrong before you shop...keep in mind, your truck has the factory exhaust brake, it takes a special turbo.

Nick
 
if the turbo still was providing some boost its doubtful the turbo came apart

FWIW its a Holset VGT with an electronically controlled actuator. short of finding one complete with actuator already calibrated I suspect you are going to end up in a shop in order to get the job done correctly
 
Do you have any codes with the issues that you are experiencing?

I found that when i experienced the same issue with mine i had a turbo actuator code and the vanes were sticking closed causing low boost and when the truck was started the exhaust brake would be on even if i didn't hit the button. Only thing that fixed it was unplugging the actuator and driving that way just to get me back to the driveway.

If I loaded up the truck with 2500lbs and drove it everything would work as it should but once i unloaded, same thing would happen within 3 miles. I ended up going with a stainless diesel S465 2nd gen swap and haven't looked back. Truck has 155k miles. Pulls hard on a grade, doesn't feel a trailer behind it even when loaded and passing anyone. EGTS stay below 1200*, Boost is up in the 60lbs but my boost sensor only really measures to 60lbs so i imagine its at 55lbs respectively. Fuel mileage is way up and so is overall enjoyment to drive the truck and do anything with it.

I hope this helps but in my opinion I would stay away from any parts supplier that doesn't specialize in diesel parts in 1 way or another. again my opinion.
 
Update:
Left the dealership yesterday afternoon with the following verdict:
The Actuator is bad and the part is $2000.00. There might be more issues but that one has to get resolved first.

So, I've been researching what it will take to replace if done myself. It looks like there is quite a comprehensive procedure to calibrate/align the actuator after installation. Am I mistaken or is this something you all would undertake if it were your task?
Would you consider a used actuator as opposed to a new or refurbished one?
 
You need WItech to do it, $2,000.00 About right for NEW complete Turbo Only Dealer, What, I find odd is the electronics can be separated on 13+ OEM Turbos GTG.
 
The price on the actuator went way up a little over a year ago. Just the actuator is about what a turbo used to cost. Turbos are way up in price also.
 
Update:
The turbo actuator was bad. Cost w/labor: $2736.00 but that may go up with the final bill. A friggin turbo actuator and, I have a very large exhaust leak at the back of the exhaust manifold-to-head that I have to get repaired yet. That'll be a new thread later after I do one more run.

Ralph
 
You can loose an awful lot of boost from a manifold leak. Keep in mind it's (offhand) 1.1 to 2.0 times the boost PSI in the manifold to drive the turbo. Clearly this leak didn't help the situation and may continue to give you trouble with low boost and related codes.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top