2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission If you've never done Dodge brakes before...

[WadePatton]

The little torx-45 bolts are the caliper bolts. Them big 18mm jobs are the "caliper adapter" bolts.



Leave them alone.



DON'T ASK.







Oh hell, ask. I don't take myself that seriously.

 

[EricBu12]

On your 18 MM bolts, Is that the one that holds the caliper to the axle end?

I thought it was 16MM and 12 Pt endwrench. I Replaced the fron rotors with the EGR Slotted rotors and the Carbon Kevlar Pads



I also did the rear Drum to Disk conversion With EGR





OK Im askin' What happened with your experience?

 

[Mingoglia]

I'm trying to remember back in '95 when I changed the brakes on my first Dodge (a 1500) and I think I did exactly the same "don't ask" as you...

 

[WadePatton]

Originally posted by EricBu12

On your 18 MM bolts, Is that the one that holds the caliper to the axle end?

I thought it was 16MM and 12 Pt endwrench.



OK Im askin' What happened with your experience?

Since I have alwasys done my own brake work-- on 14-dozen different vehicles, I didn't study the book before I jumped in on the 2500.



First I had to buy a t-45 socket for the "caliper/slider" bolts. It was dark and cold and nothing loosened up much after loosening them, so I turned my attention to the "caliper adapter" bolts. I only have one 18mm socket and promptly split it trying to loosen those-with very short extension. I borrowed another socket and went after them again before I figured out that they don't have to be removed at all.



So I got one side done at about 10pm last night. I'm going after the driver's side just now.



And I was curious as to how it'd drive with carbo-met and OEM mixed pads today. Didn't notice a thing.

 

[Chipstien]

You would have to remove them if you want to take your rotors off. I personally don't put pads on unless I either turn the rotors or buy new ones.

 

[WadePatton]

Yeah, I cut my own rotors. But the lathe is 70 miles away and they're true.



I gotta pull the whole assembly and the "no-a-reuse" nut to do the bearings--maybe in the Spring.

 

[WeirCummin]

I gotta pull the whole assembly and the "no-a-reuse" nut to do the bearings--maybe in the Spring.

Wade,

The rotors are not attached to the hub assembly, at least not on my truck.



Dean

 

[WadePatton]

Are you saying that the bearings don't run on races inside the rotor? Maybe so, I haven't looked that close. But I'll bet I have to unfasten the spindle nut to get at the bearings.

 

[EricBu12]

Here is the pic of my brake job and the bolt the wrench is on is the 16 mm 12pt bolt for the caliper holder.

I had to remove this to change the rotor. The rotor just slides off the hub once the frame is out of the way

<img src=https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=2110&width=2/src img>

 

[WeirCummin]

What I'm saying is that the rotor is free floating on the Y2k 2WD. The rotor is just slid over the unit bearing assembly. It is held in place by the wheel/lug nuts. To get the rotors off, the caliper adapter has to be removed but not the unit bearing.

 

[WadePatton]

Yeah, I get it. But I'm going to look at the bearings anyway.



And apparently the 2WD uses different fasteners.



Thanks for the info.