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Ignition Key Illumination Ring Not Working

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I noticed the other night that the little ring around the ignition key hole on the steering column does not illuminate on my truck, whereas it did on my '96. I seemed to remember seeing something about a lot time ago, but I didn't think much about it until I realized mine wasn't working.



Anybody know how I can make it work?



Rob
 
Are you sure it is supposed to work? DC has been eliminating features to save money lately.



My suggestion is: if you want an ignition halo light that works, trade in that overvalved 2001. 5 and get a properly-valved 96-98. 4:D :D
 
DC stopped connecting the halo light back in mid-year '99. I rewired my 2001 so it illuminates with the interior lights. THe bulb is there from the factory, but the wiring isn't. It's pretty easy to hook up, just need to take apart some of the steering column to get to it. :D
 
Boy isnt that dumber than a box of rocks? All the stuff is there for a nice feature and they dont hook it up DUH.
 
Evan:



Any chance you can tell me (in non-schematic terms) approximately where I can find the wire for the interior lights where I'd connect the wire from the ring?



Thanks!



Rob
 
The Halo light use to plug into the Integrated Electric Module (IEM) in the 1999 models. The factory no longer plugs it in for some reason!? If you do plug it in, I am told that it still won't work either. Do you have the clear bezel? Some of the newer Rams now have a black ring so there is no way to even get it to illuminate. I found after opening up the steering column, that the light bulb was still present, just no wiring! The easiest way to reconnect is by running a pair of wires from the Halo light and tapping it into the dome light. I'm sure that DC probably manufactured a million defected IEM's and was to cheap to fix the problem as my wife's Durango has the same problem.



Remove the top cover of the steering column. This is held on by three black torx screws found on the bottom cover (the silver one holds on the bottom cover). Once you pop the cover off it will be very obvious where the halo light lives (right above the ignition switch). The wires run from the lamp itself (a standard #74 if it ever does burn out) down to a four pin connector. Only two wires come out of the connector (the key "sense" circuit). Now extend the unconnected halo wires (black) by either adding the two missing pins to the connector or just splicing into the existing wires (like I did) with about 5-ft of wire. The new wires can be neatly run down the steering column and tie-wrapped so that it looks just like the factory did it. Route the extended wires up to the A-pillar by way of the fuse panel or up the door molding. I actually stick a very heavy gauge wire down through the side of the dash and pull the new wire up with it. Remove the A-pillar cover by just pulling it out enough so that you can work on the wiring harness and feed in the new wires. Unravel the black tape of the wiring harness about half way up the A-pillar. Center splice your extended wires into the pink and yellow wires found in the harness and rewrap the portion of the wiring harness with new electrical tape. Snap the cover back on and the halo light is all ready to go.
 
What good does it do to have the halo light come on with the dome lights? On my '95s the halo comes on when you open the door and stays lit for a couple minutes after the doors are closed.
 
I bet DC unhooked these for a reason, several years ago insurance articles called this the thiefs homming device. Get in close the door and only the ring would stay lite so the dirt bags would have a nice glowing target to rip out and hot wire.



the rock
 
illflem-

The setup I described does the same as your '95. As soon as I unlock the doors, it will stay lit for a couple of minutes or until I turn the ignition on. This is identical to the set-up used in the '99 trucks.
 
Before taking the steering column apart, just to be on the safe side, read in the Service Manual, about safety while dissasembling dashboard and or steering column. I'm sure the Air Bag won't trip but if it did, you would probably be killed. Double check but I think it is, disconnect the batteries, wait two minutes to give the capacitor time to dischrge, then have fun taking the truck apart:D I read this just yesterday, so I felt obligated to say something:rolleyes:
 
Dresslered's directions are very good. I performed this operation about 2 mos ago and had no problems. DC is just too cheap to do anything right ! :mad:
 
Good point Newf Limo! I have usually cautioned people of this in the past however, I doubt that you would be killed (unless you were under the age of 4). It would be a very $$$ mistake, though. :mad:
 
When AirBags came out, it was amazing how many people came out unscathed from serious accidents. There was another group of people though. The ones that looked perfectly fine and felt fine and died within six hours of the accident. ER's have had to come up with a new protocol for checking patients out that have been saved by a prpoerly utilized air bag. People where recieving internal injuries i. e. ruptured liver etc. and dying at home. Imagine having your head in the way with the seat in the reclined position standing outsid the door while leaning in and tinkering. You could be killed or seriously injured. Don't take them lightly. People have crushed bones in their face when the air bag deployed and they had their hand at the 12 o'clock position on the steering wheel, causing them to punch themselves in the face. Please don't think I am attacking you, just want people to take Air Bags seriously.



Thanks, Dennis EMT, GoodHew / MedTrans Ambulance service Los Angeles, 1995 and 96
 
When I took a three day course in airbag system operation and repair a few years ago the word was that more mechanics were killed by accidentally deploying airbags then people killed by them in accidents. This is death caused by the airbag, not the rest of the factors in an accident. Most mechanic deaths are from broken necks when the bag deploys to the side of the head from close range. Most accidental deployments are caused by probing with a test lamp or voltmeter into an airbag wire or connector. Unless you really know what you are doing it's a foolish move to mess with underdash wiring without first disconnecting the batteries and waiting for the supplemental power supply to discharge. Our trucks take about 5 minutes to discharge, some vehicles take days and must be disconnected before working around safely.



I know it's a PITA to find the hot wire you're looking for with the battery disconnected, but even if the bag deploys without injury you're talking big bucks to replace it. Not sure on a Ram, but the bag alone on an Accord is $1200. It is illegal to even buy an airbag in many states unless you have a airbag tech license, junkyards aren't supposed to sell them either.
 
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Couple of thoughts on this subject as I'm a repo man and a ASE tech. The airbag can be worked around without disconnecting the battery with a little common sense. It is fired electrically. If you are probing wires and feed 12 volts into it then it will fire. If you are working on an unrelated circuit then the system is as safe as any other in the vehicle. Pulling the fuse will kill the circuit like any other unless you feed 12 volts into the system via shorting or hotwiring then it won't go off. The system actually fires by a sensor that "senses" the speed and other factors of a crash. When I tapped the rear of a young lady that pulled out in front of me in my 96 at 15-20 mph the bags did not go off even though I knew that I was going to get a face full.

A few years ago a collegue was removing the steering wheel on a certain type of car to remove the ignition lock as this is the easiest way to repo that type of car. He did cause as close as we can figure a static discharge or short from the horn wire to the air bag wiring and deployed the bag in his face. When you are working on an airbag system is is standard procedure to pull the fuses for the steering column wiring or the battery cable as previously mentioned. He wasn't really hurt but it was funny to see that emblem that is embossed on the steering wheel center mirror imaged in his forehead in red for a few days. And the seat bottom had some bunched up leather for some unexplained reason. Now onto the dodge ram. They are easy to steal, To thwart losing your pride and joy please go get an alarm with a loud siren. It is the single most effective deterrent there is. The club, starter disable, ignition lock and that plastic door handle hole cover (hint, hint) are all some of the easiest pickings for a would be thief for a 30000 + truck. If a pro wants it then all you can do is have good insurance but a loud alarm will give you or some one the opportunity to scare or stop the theft. I know I type too much but I am proud of the two trucks I own and I'd hate to lose one of em to some scumbag that'll run em to mexico and part them out. Insurance will never pay for all the little things you do to make it YOUR truck.



Nuff said

Lenny

96 2500 4x4 CC V10 and AT

00 3500 4x4 QC TDC and 5 spd
 
My Blazer was stolen, along with the Alpine alarm. It is an awful feeling. My Ram being stolen would push me over the edge. I would have to take the thieves hands. Jake, (our Ram) has become a member of the family. There would be a heavy price if captured! And I wouldn't even press charges.
 
A buddy of mine had a big party an overnighter ( close friends and family ) we hooped it up pretty good:D , the next morning we were'nt feeling so well, his mother-in-law begged him to run to the store to get some cream for the coffee he jumped into his Mercedes 560 SEL as soon as he turned the key BOOM the air bag went off, he was a little upset and had that white powder all over his face, boy did we laugh our butts off, we were glad he was injured but, how about adding that to a hangover:eek:
 
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