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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) I'm ready to start bombing

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My tax return money is burning a hole in my pocket, so I figured I would spend it on my truck. I have a 95 12 valve 5-speed straight piped with the KDP already fixed and a K&N filter. I was thinking a #5 or #10 plate 4in straight pipe, boost and pyro guages. I have also heard instead of spending all the money on the filter you can drill holes in your airbox below the filter, is this true? I have found everything on ebay so far, so I am hoping I can do it fairly cheap. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Get boost and pyro package from city diesel, comes with the pillar pod all for $200. While you are at city diesel pick up the 3K GSK they have it the cheapest, less that a hundred bucks.

Get an actual TST plate, not ebay. Get a number 4 plate, it's $200. There have been known throttle issues with a number 5 and the 3K GSK.

4'' Exhaust is fine to get from ebay, got mine for $250.

The AFC kit I highly recommend from TST also, also while you are at TST buy a BHAF.

Here's all the links for you-

http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=81

http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=6

http://www.citydiesel.net/12v-high-....html?osCsid=54d486f2afa99ed4b7f7be83108bcdf7





Here's another good site-

http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeUSPrice.htm



After all that is done you'll need to upgrade your clutch, then you can look into injectors and delivery valves.
 
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Here is what I did to my 96 5 speed. I installed a MBRP 4" exhaust, AFE air filter kit, #10 plate that has the boost line fitting, 3gsk gov spring kit, and boost/pyro gauges. My next step is a set of injectors and upgrading the clutch from South Bend. I am very happy with the results.
 
I have a 160 pump to your 175, but look at my signature to see my hp/tq results w/my mods.



My brother has a 95 w/a 5spd, 370's, #10 plate, AFE, and a after market clutch. He dyno'd at 372 and 850.
 
whats the gain of injectors?

Will I be ok going with my stock injectors or do I have to change those with the fuel plate. Also I don't have a huge budget is it hard to grind your fuel plate yourself? Or I have a few friends who are machinists, could I have one of them machine my stock one down. I think the K&N is gonna have to go for sure though. By the way this is runaway ron's son chris. he needs to update his signature... I have his red 95, my sister has my mom's old white 95 (the one that ran away) and my mom now has a 97 silver dually that is already bombed. If I could figure out what has been done to that one I would just copy that. Runaway ron ended up with the 94 blue one again, body is getting scrapped and a 78 ford body is the replacement.
 
You'll need a clutch before you get injectors if you go in the order of mods I mentioned.

One of the best plates custom ground is a 100 plate, it's a 10 plate with no top end de-fueling, so it's a 10 and a 0 plate combined which makes a 100 plate. SIGNAL73 is running one and I talked to him about it he really likes it in his 95' 5 speed truck.
 
After much research I have decided to grind my plate myself. along with gauges, 4'', filter and 3k gsk. Is there any pictures or schematics I can use? I found 1 picture, but it had no measurments. please attach if you have any. also I see alot of people going with a 4k whats the difference, and what will work best with a 100 plate?
 
3K is more for the street, 4K is for pulling. Without major mods such as a cam and huge turbo to breath in those upper RPM's there's no point of a 4K.
 
I gone and done it

I ordered my 3k GSK and pillar mount guage kit from City Diesel and my 4in turbo back exhause from ebay. I am waiting on Signal 73 to get back to me on grinding a 100 plate. I decided to go with an amsoil air filter and drill my airbox. I will let y'all know when it comes and I get it all done. Thanks a lot for all the info.
 
PM sent... .



Also, Heres some Text from Northslope describing how he does 100 plates:



I made a stencil from plexiglass so I could remark it as I do the rough in grinding.



A nickel or something similar works for the profile of your stencil.



I mark it rough it in on a bench grinder, holding the plate with my hands to prevent it from being overheated, get it real close within a 1/32" of being finished. Then get the bigger gouge marks from the bench grinder out using a drum sander on a Dremel. Once satisfied I'll sand it with emery cloth (320 grit) then i'll move onto 600 wet dry sand paper. Once that is done then Dremel gets a felt polishing wheel with Simi-Chrome metal polish (any metal polish will work) till I can see my reflection. Basically the do's are make it shine. The reason is because you DO NOT want to wear your governor lever arm, I've ground customers plates that they tried to grind and they were just roughed in and not finished and the wear on the plate was terrible could only

imagine what the lever looked like! The don'ts are don't get the plate too hot during rough in, hence the reason why I hold mine un-gloved with my bare hands. Take your time enjoy self! You'll like the results 2-3 hours from start to finish on your first plate.





HTH, Jim
 
Thanks Signal

Thanks a bunch for the info signal, just waitin for my parts to come and then let the bombing commece. He really got that thing shiny didn't he.
 
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