Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
In light of some recent posts, I thought it helpful to provide additional information and clarification on the jig kit I have been providing for some time now.
My kit was carefully engineered and designed to be used on all three generations - 1989 thru 1999. The cover bolts and the dowel pin on all three generations are in exactly the same location. The difference in the gear housing between the three generations is on the opposite side of the housing where the injection pump is mounted. Note: cast parts are not consistently identical. Their unfinished surfaces can vary according to which mold was used to make the part. Since the housing is a cast part and not finished-machined in the area where the jig mounts, it was necessary to elongate the slots - which was referred to as “slop” - in order to accommodate the differences in the castings. These elongated slots are parallel to the axis of the drilled hole. Therefore moving the jig on the slots has no effect on where the axis of the drill and the axis of the dowel pin cross. The screw was never intended to “hit” the dowel pin, only pass in front of it to block its path to keep it from falling out. You can see a picture of the relationship between the screw and dowel pin on my website. The link is on my signature. The picture is #3 on the Killer Dowel Pin Information.
I designed this kit to be quick and easy for CTD owners to use, even if they have only limited mechanical ability and tools. The extension drill and countersink allow you to use a common ¼ drill motor to do the job with only having to remove the alternator. (Just remove the two bolts that attach it to the motor and swing it up onto the rubber intake tube without removing the wires). A picture of the contents of the kit is located below picture #3 on the website. Other than the jig, drill, tap and countersink there are three very important parts (1, 2 & 4). Number 1 is the tool to hold the fan pulley from rotating while you loosen the fan with tool Number 2, which is a special large thin wrench. I added these to the kits when I read that some people were using impact hammers/punches to beat on the corners of the hex to remove the fan—not realizing the damage they were doing to the very expensive precision bearing that is in the fan hub. The bearing was designed to turn smoothly at high speeds with considerable belt tension. When you beat on the hex nut, the balls that are between the races are putting small dents in the races causing premature bearing failure. Number 4 in the picture is a pressure regulator/safety valve which limits the amount of pressure buildup inside the engine before you drill through the housing. Without this the pressure could build up high enough to blow out the gasket behind the tappet cover—which is behind your injection pump. If you blow out the gasket, you would have to remove the injection pump to replace it.
This kit is an industrial quality tool and will do many, many trucks. I was told that one of the 12 kits I have donated to the TDR members has been used very successfully on over 200 trucks. By following the detailed instructions and pictures that come with the kit, this operation can be done in less than an hour.
John
My kit was carefully engineered and designed to be used on all three generations - 1989 thru 1999. The cover bolts and the dowel pin on all three generations are in exactly the same location. The difference in the gear housing between the three generations is on the opposite side of the housing where the injection pump is mounted. Note: cast parts are not consistently identical. Their unfinished surfaces can vary according to which mold was used to make the part. Since the housing is a cast part and not finished-machined in the area where the jig mounts, it was necessary to elongate the slots - which was referred to as “slop” - in order to accommodate the differences in the castings. These elongated slots are parallel to the axis of the drilled hole. Therefore moving the jig on the slots has no effect on where the axis of the drill and the axis of the dowel pin cross. The screw was never intended to “hit” the dowel pin, only pass in front of it to block its path to keep it from falling out. You can see a picture of the relationship between the screw and dowel pin on my website. The link is on my signature. The picture is #3 on the Killer Dowel Pin Information.
I designed this kit to be quick and easy for CTD owners to use, even if they have only limited mechanical ability and tools. The extension drill and countersink allow you to use a common ¼ drill motor to do the job with only having to remove the alternator. (Just remove the two bolts that attach it to the motor and swing it up onto the rubber intake tube without removing the wires). A picture of the contents of the kit is located below picture #3 on the website. Other than the jig, drill, tap and countersink there are three very important parts (1, 2 & 4). Number 1 is the tool to hold the fan pulley from rotating while you loosen the fan with tool Number 2, which is a special large thin wrench. I added these to the kits when I read that some people were using impact hammers/punches to beat on the corners of the hex to remove the fan—not realizing the damage they were doing to the very expensive precision bearing that is in the fan hub. The bearing was designed to turn smoothly at high speeds with considerable belt tension. When you beat on the hex nut, the balls that are between the races are putting small dents in the races causing premature bearing failure. Number 4 in the picture is a pressure regulator/safety valve which limits the amount of pressure buildup inside the engine before you drill through the housing. Without this the pressure could build up high enough to blow out the gasket behind the tappet cover—which is behind your injection pump. If you blow out the gasket, you would have to remove the injection pump to replace it.
This kit is an industrial quality tool and will do many, many trucks. I was told that one of the 12 kits I have donated to the TDR members has been used very successfully on over 200 trucks. By following the detailed instructions and pictures that come with the kit, this operation can be done in less than an hour.
John
These kits are well engeneered, the workmanship in the fabrication of the componets are first class and the best part is that it fits and works . I have seen tooling for some aircraft not made as nice.
