With the rising costs of fuel in our present economy, its growing more and more benificial to have an In-bed auxiliary tank where a person can drive further on a fill up, or can drive to such places as a truck stop to purchase diesel at a lower price. So, my quest is to find out how to "plumb" an In-bed auxiliary diesel tank into my existing fuel system. I would like to find a way to do it like the old chevys or fords, and have a switch in the dash where I could switch from the "stock" tank on the truck or to the in-bed auxilary tank. I have a 24 valve so I have the pusher pump, is there a pump in the tank, or is the pusher pump the only one between the tank and the Injection pump. Has anyone done this? and if so, do you have pictures or directions that I could look over to see how big of a job this will be. Thanks for your help in advance
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In-bed Auxiliary Tank
- Thread starter rholcom2
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Wiredawg
TDR MEMBER
American Tank!
Buy an American Tank setup. You don't have to figure anything out. They have a double valve that not only directs fuel draw/return, but also switches which sending unit to get a signal from. Complete kit with all hardware.
No pump with kit. you need to put your pusher pump between fuel tank switch valve and engine to have it work for both tanks. I modified mine to use the drain as the fuel feed vs the one in with the sending unit (similar to stock tank setup). So, I'll have gravity feed from 65 gal unit. I was amazed how much fuel flows from stock tank fuel line... means the lift pump only really has to draw fuel from wher fuel line turn up to engine.
Good price as well.
Wiredawg
Buy an American Tank setup. You don't have to figure anything out. They have a double valve that not only directs fuel draw/return, but also switches which sending unit to get a signal from. Complete kit with all hardware.
No pump with kit. you need to put your pusher pump between fuel tank switch valve and engine to have it work for both tanks. I modified mine to use the drain as the fuel feed vs the one in with the sending unit (similar to stock tank setup). So, I'll have gravity feed from 65 gal unit. I was amazed how much fuel flows from stock tank fuel line... means the lift pump only really has to draw fuel from wher fuel line turn up to engine.
Good price as well.
Wiredawg
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I've been researching this too and found that NorthernTool.com carries a line of aluminum auxilliary tanks and tool box/tank combos also. Theirs does not come with the valve kit or sending unit, but the tank is a lot cheaper..... like less than half the price.
A few years ago I purchased a valve kit from Rigid Hitch for $80 for a different truck when I installed an auxilliary tank, which was actually a marine fuel tank for a boat. As for a sending unit for the guage, it shouldn't be too difficult to come up with one of those at a reasonable price either. Just about any marine supply house or NAPA store should be able to source that item.
I'm figuring that for a comparable tank / toolbox combo I'll be able to save about $500 by getting the tank from Northern. I'm lucky enough to have one of their retail stores nearby, and can buy one off the floor for about $100 more than off their website, but then there is no shipping cost involved either. I looked the units over and they sure seem to be quality units, and are made of similar materials and construction as the units available from the other manufacturers. I just can't figure out the huge difference in price between the two companies.
Food for thought... ...
A few years ago I purchased a valve kit from Rigid Hitch for $80 for a different truck when I installed an auxilliary tank, which was actually a marine fuel tank for a boat. As for a sending unit for the guage, it shouldn't be too difficult to come up with one of those at a reasonable price either. Just about any marine supply house or NAPA store should be able to source that item.
I'm figuring that for a comparable tank / toolbox combo I'll be able to save about $500 by getting the tank from Northern. I'm lucky enough to have one of their retail stores nearby, and can buy one off the floor for about $100 more than off their website, but then there is no shipping cost involved either. I looked the units over and they sure seem to be quality units, and are made of similar materials and construction as the units available from the other manufacturers. I just can't figure out the huge difference in price between the two companies.
Food for thought... ...
Like WireDawg said, American tank has what you are looking for. they can be found at http://www.auxtank.com/auxtank/home.asp
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Wiredawg
TDR MEMBER
They really are about the same...
Sregorb:
The prices for Northern are good for tranfer tank setups and American Tank prices as good for aux tank setups (IMO). The extra cost for American Tank comes from the transfer valve, plumbing and electrical materials. Another strong point is Norhern is good if the dimensions work for you, but American Tank customer built mine 1" shorter to fit below bed lip at no extra charge.
I opted for the American Tank setup because I didn't want to engineer (jerry rig) valves/plumbing to transfer fuel from tank to tank. I've read on the TDR where someone forgot to turn off his transfer pump and dumped about 50 gallons of fuel on the ground.
I toiled on this for a long time befoer deciding on the full blown setup with American Tank. Nothing wrong with transfer setups, I just wanted a factory setup on this that reads fuel level on factory gauge.
Udaloy: It's against US DOT rules to tap a transfer tank directly into the stock fule system. The laws are posted on the Amercan Tank website. To be honest, I broke one of them by running the fuel feed off of the drain into the switch valve. The portion of the regarding my violation reads to not gravity feed fuel into carberator or injection fuel systems. Not sure how heavily enforced.
Cheers, Wiredawg
Sregorb:
The prices for Northern are good for tranfer tank setups and American Tank prices as good for aux tank setups (IMO). The extra cost for American Tank comes from the transfer valve, plumbing and electrical materials. Another strong point is Norhern is good if the dimensions work for you, but American Tank customer built mine 1" shorter to fit below bed lip at no extra charge.
I opted for the American Tank setup because I didn't want to engineer (jerry rig) valves/plumbing to transfer fuel from tank to tank. I've read on the TDR where someone forgot to turn off his transfer pump and dumped about 50 gallons of fuel on the ground.
I toiled on this for a long time befoer deciding on the full blown setup with American Tank. Nothing wrong with transfer setups, I just wanted a factory setup on this that reads fuel level on factory gauge.
Udaloy: It's against US DOT rules to tap a transfer tank directly into the stock fule system. The laws are posted on the Amercan Tank website. To be honest, I broke one of them by running the fuel feed off of the drain into the switch valve. The portion of the regarding my violation reads to not gravity feed fuel into carberator or injection fuel systems. Not sure how heavily enforced.
Cheers, Wiredawg
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There is a 6 port switching valve available from JC Whitney made by Pollak that will effectively switch between the two tanks (just like the old chevy's and ford's). It will also provide fuel return to the tank from which the fuel was pumped and switch accordingly. This is necessary because there is a pretty good volume of fuel returned through the lines. I think I paid around 45 or 50 dollars for the valve. The valve also includes internal electrical relays/switching to allow the fuel gage to show level in the active tank. I am not sure how well this works as I have heard reports that our PCM gets confused by the changing signals and sometimes it requires a restart to reset and read the level properly.
Chris
Chris
Well, I found the DOT's rules regarding auxillary fuel tanks and here's two things I found:
(4) Fill pipe openings are located outside the vehicle's passenger compartment and its cargo compartment
Couldn't this be read to make an in-bed aux tank illegal since the fill opening is in the cargo compartment? Weak argument at best, I know.
(d) Gravity or syphon feed prohibited. A fuel system must not supply fuel by gravity or syphon feed directly to the carburetor or injector.
I think this regulation is saying that the feed system cannot be gravity or syphoned directly to the carburetor or injector. If I put an aux tank in and had it gravity feed the OEM fuel tank, it wouldn't be feeding directly to the carb or injector. Yes? NO?
(4) Fill pipe openings are located outside the vehicle's passenger compartment and its cargo compartment
Couldn't this be read to make an in-bed aux tank illegal since the fill opening is in the cargo compartment? Weak argument at best, I know.
(d) Gravity or syphon feed prohibited. A fuel system must not supply fuel by gravity or syphon feed directly to the carburetor or injector.
I think this regulation is saying that the feed system cannot be gravity or syphoned directly to the carburetor or injector. If I put an aux tank in and had it gravity feed the OEM fuel tank, it wouldn't be feeding directly to the carb or injector. Yes? NO?
Wiredawg
TDR MEMBER
What I think they mean...
Udaloy:
I interpret half of what they mean is no tanks within the passenger compartment like the old pickups with the fuel tanks behind the seat. The cargo compartment part doesn't make sense.
The part about gravity feed is I think they want the fuel to be drawn from the top of the tank vice the lower part of the side so if you're in an accident and the fule line is broken, it won't keep feeding fuel.
All this is opinion.
Wiredawg
Udaloy:
I interpret half of what they mean is no tanks within the passenger compartment like the old pickups with the fuel tanks behind the seat. The cargo compartment part doesn't make sense.
The part about gravity feed is I think they want the fuel to be drawn from the top of the tank vice the lower part of the side so if you're in an accident and the fule line is broken, it won't keep feeding fuel.
All this is opinion.
Wiredawg
Udaloy-You cannot gravity feed from a bed tank to the main tank because the main tank is vented to the atmosphere-guess what happens when main tank is full-fuel starts coming out of the vent tube. I had a bed tank that I equiped with a fuel pump to fill trucks main tank with a flip of the switch-problem was you had to really pay attention to the fuel gauge so you did not overfill main tank. My next tank (newer truck) was a Transfer Flow 98 gal in bed tank. Great system-high price. Don't have to worry about fuel running all over the road as the computer takes care of turning on and off transfer pump. I have a 2003 on order and probably will put an aux tank in bed-don't know what I'll do yet but I'm leaning towards less expensive. 
I bought a TFI 98 gallon tank a few months ago. I installed it myself, which means anyone can do it. I am very happy with its performance.
Description of operation: As main tank gets down to about 30 gallons doesn't know where the extra fuel is coming from but it likes it the pump automatically kicks a few gallons into it. After that, it pretty much transfers fuel (from time to time) to keep both tanks about equal, ie; 3/4 to 3/4, 1/2 to 1/2 etc. untill both are getting real low then it seems to pump more to the main tank to keep it above 15 gallons.
I havn't taken it down to the extreme, and won't unless needed, but I like the fact that I have an extra "sediment trap" in the system, and that I didn't have to mess with the original relationship between main tank and engine --- If something goes wrong, then I still have the stock system intact for continued operation, albeit stopping a lot more often for fuel.
Hope this helps;
Skip
Description of operation: As main tank gets down to about 30 gallons doesn't know where the extra fuel is coming from but it likes it the pump automatically kicks a few gallons into it. After that, it pretty much transfers fuel (from time to time) to keep both tanks about equal, ie; 3/4 to 3/4, 1/2 to 1/2 etc. untill both are getting real low then it seems to pump more to the main tank to keep it above 15 gallons.
I havn't taken it down to the extreme, and won't unless needed, but I like the fact that I have an extra "sediment trap" in the system, and that I didn't have to mess with the original relationship between main tank and engine --- If something goes wrong, then I still have the stock system intact for continued operation, albeit stopping a lot more often for fuel.
Hope this helps;
Skip
www.transferflow.com
50 Gallon Toolbox Fuel Tank Press here for dimensions
Dodge, Ford HD, GM
Diesel
1990-03
808-01-10289
Truck/230 lb
8 ft. bed only
$1579. 93
This comes with the computer and just about everything you need just wish it was around 90 gallons.
American tank
Toolbox Tank Combo Dual Lid
90 Gallon 1980-2002 Ram Pickup
Long Wide Bed Diesel $1784. 00
comes with installation kit, don't think it comes with a transfer pump. no comp.
Northern tool
97 Gallon Transfer Tank/Toolbox Combo
Unique combo boxes combine a fuel transfer tank with the storage capacity of a crossbed truck box. Offset storage boxes allow for the permanent installation of fuel pumps. Designed to work with 12 Volt and manual pumps. Item# 3490103 features a C-channel dual lid storage box. Each ships by truck and comes with a two year limited warranty. U. S. A.
Delivery Time: 10-15 Business Days
Ship Wt. 150. 0 lbs
Item# 3490103
Discount Price... $799. 99
comes with nothing.
I like the computer idea just wish I could get it in a 90 or 98 gal size.
I will email them and find out.
50 Gallon Toolbox Fuel Tank Press here for dimensions
Dodge, Ford HD, GM
Diesel
1990-03
808-01-10289
Truck/230 lb
8 ft. bed only
$1579. 93
This comes with the computer and just about everything you need just wish it was around 90 gallons.
American tank
Toolbox Tank Combo Dual Lid
90 Gallon 1980-2002 Ram Pickup
Long Wide Bed Diesel $1784. 00
comes with installation kit, don't think it comes with a transfer pump. no comp.
Northern tool
97 Gallon Transfer Tank/Toolbox Combo
Unique combo boxes combine a fuel transfer tank with the storage capacity of a crossbed truck box. Offset storage boxes allow for the permanent installation of fuel pumps. Designed to work with 12 Volt and manual pumps. Item# 3490103 features a C-channel dual lid storage box. Each ships by truck and comes with a two year limited warranty. U. S. A.
Delivery Time: 10-15 Business Days
Ship Wt. 150. 0 lbs
Item# 3490103
Discount Price... $799. 99
comes with nothing.
I like the computer idea just wish I could get it in a 90 or 98 gal size.
I will email them and find out.
Wiredawg
TDR MEMBER
Better Comparison....
CFAR:
A better comparison on price is the American Tool 65 gallon tool box/fuel tank combo for $1067 with installtion kit. Level shows on stock gauge. Since it works through the PCM, it also has low fuel light comes on when it's low.
What does the computer do on the Transfer Flow? Does it have a display? How big is it?
Wiredawg
CFAR:
A better comparison on price is the American Tool 65 gallon tool box/fuel tank combo for $1067 with installtion kit. Level shows on stock gauge. Since it works through the PCM, it also has low fuel light comes on when it's low.
What does the computer do on the Transfer Flow? Does it have a display? How big is it?
Wiredawg
Kev,
These are a few pics of my setup. I designed and had the tank built here at work. I probably had more constraints than most:
1. The tank had to rest on the sliding bed.
2. The tank had to be low enough to fit under an ARE hard tonneau while resting on the sliding bed (most commercially available tanks would not).
3. The tank had to be easily removable to use all the bed space when needed and be self contained.
4. All electrical and fuel hoses had to be of the quick disconnect variety.
I ended up with an aluminum ~80 gallon tank that is plumbed through Parker hydraulic double sealing couplers (skid steer loader type). This minimizes fluid loss when disconnected (there is only a skim on the coupler when opened) and makes it very easy to unhook the tank and remove it. The electrical hookup is made through a Neutrik Speakon locking connector. The tank pumps into a fitting welded into the filler neck at about 5 gal/min. The vent line has a pressure relief valve to exhaust air displaced by fuel from the main tank, as the stock vent cap cannot keep up with the pump. There is a vacuum relief valve built into the aux tank to enhance venting, as the fill neck cap cannot vent enough air to keep up with the pump. The tank is large, but it is not so heavy that I cannot lift it out of the bed (empty) by myself and hand truck it into storage when I need the full bed capacity. The pics show it mounted about half way back on the sliding bed. I move the tank back over the rear axle in the winter for added weight/traction. Normally it is pushed to the front so that there is still a good 6' of usable bed.
Edit: One advantage to using the hydraulic quick connectors on both ends of the hose is the ability to release the hose from the truck bed. You can then plug that connector into an appropriate fueling nozzle and use it to refuel another vehicle or dump the fluid into a home diesel tank (if you need the tank out but still have some fuel in it).
I looked for commercially available tanks that would do what I needed and could not find one that fit the bill, so I built my own. I wanted to be able to have my cake and eat it too. I know not everybody will be able to do this, but you may be able to pick and choose from some of the things I did and do something similar with a Northern or other tank.
One other thing; the tank will siphon feed in this condition which may not always be good (if the top ring of the main tank leaks or fails). I have valves installed to shut off flow and have picked up a solenoid valve to install that will help automate the process.
If you have any questions PM me and I'll try to help.
Chris
These are a few pics of my setup. I designed and had the tank built here at work. I probably had more constraints than most:
1. The tank had to rest on the sliding bed.
2. The tank had to be low enough to fit under an ARE hard tonneau while resting on the sliding bed (most commercially available tanks would not).
3. The tank had to be easily removable to use all the bed space when needed and be self contained.
4. All electrical and fuel hoses had to be of the quick disconnect variety.
I ended up with an aluminum ~80 gallon tank that is plumbed through Parker hydraulic double sealing couplers (skid steer loader type). This minimizes fluid loss when disconnected (there is only a skim on the coupler when opened) and makes it very easy to unhook the tank and remove it. The electrical hookup is made through a Neutrik Speakon locking connector. The tank pumps into a fitting welded into the filler neck at about 5 gal/min. The vent line has a pressure relief valve to exhaust air displaced by fuel from the main tank, as the stock vent cap cannot keep up with the pump. There is a vacuum relief valve built into the aux tank to enhance venting, as the fill neck cap cannot vent enough air to keep up with the pump. The tank is large, but it is not so heavy that I cannot lift it out of the bed (empty) by myself and hand truck it into storage when I need the full bed capacity. The pics show it mounted about half way back on the sliding bed. I move the tank back over the rear axle in the winter for added weight/traction. Normally it is pushed to the front so that there is still a good 6' of usable bed.
Edit: One advantage to using the hydraulic quick connectors on both ends of the hose is the ability to release the hose from the truck bed. You can then plug that connector into an appropriate fueling nozzle and use it to refuel another vehicle or dump the fluid into a home diesel tank (if you need the tank out but still have some fuel in it).
I looked for commercially available tanks that would do what I needed and could not find one that fit the bill, so I built my own. I wanted to be able to have my cake and eat it too. I know not everybody will be able to do this, but you may be able to pick and choose from some of the things I did and do something similar with a Northern or other tank.
One other thing; the tank will siphon feed in this condition which may not always be good (if the top ring of the main tank leaks or fails). I have valves installed to shut off flow and have picked up a solenoid valve to install that will help automate the process.
If you have any questions PM me and I'll try to help.
Chris
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
