in line auto/trans filter

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Hey guys anyone have any exp. with any of the
in line magnetic/filters on their 47re autos.
I was "slumin" over on the ford site and saw
one on a banner ad,install instructions say
to put them on b-4 the cooler if milage is
under 5000 & after the cooler if over 5000.
Whats up with that? Any input pro or con
would be helpfull.


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'00',QC,SMITTY/BUILT/NERF
BARS,MANIX/BRUSH GUARD,
AUTO,ALL OPTIONS BUT LEATHER,NO STINKIN BADGES

 

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an inline filter is intended to trap any contamination that may come out of the cooler and get back to the trans, so it should be installed in the return line between the last cooler and the trans.
we don't believe you can properly clean a cooler that has been contaminated with debri from a failed trans and always replace the coolers with new.
if the trans has been rebuilt and properly cleaned, new coolers installed and or if the trans has never had a failure I don't see a need for an inline filter. there should be no debri in the system to trap if there has been no failure.
any filter will restrict to some degree and we don't want any more restriction than need be.
an engine on the other hand will have debri to filter on an ongoing basis because of the partially burned fuel that gets past the rings and into the crankcase (blowby)
lp gas engines run much cleaner and you dont see the oil getting nearly as dirty, not because of less blow by but because the lp gas in already in a vaporized state and burns more efficiently compared to a fuel that enters the cylinder in an atomized state and then needs to be vaporized before combustion.
anyway we have flushed the same cooler for days and at the end of flushing with 210 degree trans fluid under pressure and no more debri coming out in the cleanable filter of the machine we cut the cooler open and still found debri, this is why we always replace the cooler now instead of flushing and using and inline filter.

 

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THANKS GOEREND thats one of the things that
make this site so great we have guys on here
that have the knowledge and are willing to
share it. What do you think of draining the
transmission pan every other oil change 8k mi.
without droping the pan or changing the filter,does this practice extend transmission life? THANKS AGAIN!

 

[Archive]

certainly it would not hurt anything but i think it would be overkill at anything less than 25000 miles UNLESS you know for sure that you overheated the fluid for whatever reason (you should be able to smell it and see that is color darkend suddenly). I say suddenly because there are varying amounts of red dye in different brands of fluid and varying amounts of dye in different brand clutch plates, so if you have fluid with very little red dye and clutch plates with lots of brown dye your fluid color will slowly change color. as long as you pull your dipstick b/4 you start your engine after an overnite sit and you see no little and i mean little streaks of black indicating clutch material this slow "browning" of the fluid does not alarm me. after you run the engine of course these black streaks will be mixed in with the fluid and now you will have to let them settle again.
the major manufactures once said that fluid is good for 100,000 miles at 160-180 degrees and for every 20 degree increase it half lifes the fluid 200 degrees good for 50,000 220 good for 25,000 240 good for 12,500 ect.
but who is going to time how long they were at a certain temp for a certain amount of time. the other thing that the majors say is that the fluid is good for 300 hours b/4 it is oxidized. that is prox 13-15000 miles depending on driving speeds. amsoil says there oil is good for 900 hours.

 

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About 100,000 miles back, I spliced a 10 micron, 20 GPM Hydraulic filter into the rubber line going INTO the oil cooler. (hot oil filters better) The internal trans. filter only screens 40-50 microns at best. As the clutches wear, they contaminate the oil, the 10 micron filter will pick up these particles, the internal filter will not. I change mine about 30,000 and it's always a pretty pink color. I also installed an oil temp probe in the filter block ($19. 95 at Tractor supply, a wood splitter return line filter & block actually) and get pretty accurate temps since this is the hot line coming right out of the TC. I ran another probe to the top of the engine oil filter housing through an "on-on" toggle switch, and can use the same gauge to check both oils.