In need of a quality oil drainplug

[Ncostello]

My stock thin shoulder drain plug makes me a little nervous with its design. I dont torque to book specs... I just use a 3/8" rachet and snug it up tight as I have with all my other vehicles.



I was wanting to get a new plug with a sturdy design and an actual bolt head instead of a socket insert. A magnetic tip would be nice too.



Which ones are working good? Seems there are several out there. I just dont want to get one with cheap metal or poor thread cuts. I also dont want to use an easy-drain type valve. Thanks!

 

[MCummings]

If it ain't broke,, Fix it till it is ?

 

[Texas Diesel]

Get a SuperPlug, I have one on each truck (both CTD's). They provide a Cummins sealing washer, just make sure you get the correct side to the pan.



http://www.superplug.com/



The magnet tip is super strong.

 

[mikel]

I got the one from Geno's and have no complaints with it.



Good luck,

Mike

 

[R D Brown]

Oil Drain Plug

Enjoyed your posts on the fuel pump stuff. All of them. Great work.



I have the EZ Change Drain Plug from Genos. Best thing I've put on the truck. I just store the drain hose in the engine compartment.



RD Brown

 

[JSmith]

ncostello

I had drain plug woes out the wazu. I finally got a drain plug from Geno`s. Its the one with the drain hose. You never have to remove the plug again. Just unscrew the cap screw in the brass hose fitting and let the oil drain. No oil mess.

 

[24V-DSL]

Neil...



I've used the Geno's Heavy Duty Oil Plug ($19. 50) for over 70K... 14 oil changes, and feel that it is a quality, no-nonsense plug. Excellent threads, etc. Mine came with a magnet cover that attaches over the plug head as a kind of shield. Have no opinion as to the value/effectiveness of the magnet. I don't know why their web site picture doesn't mention or show the cover. Maybe it's not included any more?? Anyway, Geno's has a no questions asked return policy if you don't like it.

 

[Ncostello]

Thanks for the comments! I'll go ahead and get a superplug. That stock one with the thin shoulder is... well... just too thin. Maybe it will hold but why trust it since its about the easiest thing on here to replace.



If I get a valve... I'll go with the Fumoto ball valve drain. But not the one with the hose nipple. On my 2WD I need all the clearance I can get.

 

[24V-DSL]

Don't know if this has any credibility... . but



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=62037&highlight=super+plug

 

[illflem]

Geno's said they won't be selling the Superplug till it's redesigned since many folks were having problems with them falling out. If they are selling it again it must have been redesigned. If you have an older one you can/should send it back for replacement. Apparently the older ones have the wrong thread on them. One member here reported frying his engine when he lost all the oil...

 

[Texas Diesel]

This is interesting, mine have never loosened or leaked. Better call SuperPlug & Genos and see wazzzzup. I'll post what I find out.

 

[Forrest]

My stock drain plug finally crapped out @ 105k miles. I bought the truck with 19k & changed the oil ever 5k myself.



The sign of pending failure is when the flange of the drain plug becomes concave. Easy to see when it's installed. No telling how long it was deformed before it cracked.



I replaced it with a finger touch from Genos. Can't believe I didn't do it as soon as I discovered them some 70k miles ago.

 

[B KIRK]

Here's another option. Yea, I know it's on eBay, but new magnetic drain plugs are all that he sells. There is a "Buy It Now" feature so you wouldn't have to wait to bid. 22mm X 1. 5 thread pitch. I got one. Strong magnet. Hope this helps.



Brad

 

[EricBu12]

I have the easy drain valve plug from genos. Very easy to drain and close up. Valve has a sring loaded tab that sets into a slot so it can't open unless you pull forward then rotate to drain. I have had this on for 3 yrs now and not one problem

 

[Ncostello]

Eric... what torque did you use? Did it come with instructions as to what the torque value should be? Thanks.

 

[Challenger-II]

Originally posted by B KIRK

Here's another option. Yea, I know it's on eBay, but new magnetic drain plugs are all that he sells. There is a "Buy It Now" feature so you wouldn't have to wait to bid. 22mm X 1. 5 thread pitch. I got one. Strong magnet. Hope this helps.



Brad

Brad... ... I too just bought the Neo-magnet drain plug from the guy on Ebay. Nice strong looking plug however, the sealing flange or shoulder is smaller in diameter compared to the OEM plug? Much smaller!! I hope it covers the drain hole in the pan.



Did you notice the same thing and any problems? I wont be able to check until next oil change.

 

[B KIRK]

I noticed that also. Measured it with calipers before installing it. Shoulder was 1/4" smaller than stock. No problems with it at all.

I replaced the factory one with another factory, and always had a slight drip. So far, none with this one. Haven't removed it yet to see whats on the magnet. Run synthetic, so it will be a while before I find out.



Brad

 

[Ladders]

Ran the finger tip in the y2k for about 100k w/no problems. Using same make (different part #) in the 03 and no problems yet.



Sorri for the out-of-focus pic but it shows the grooves I filed into it for draining. Did not torque either one but did ensure that they are TIGHT.



SOTSU!!

\\BF//

 

[DrJC]

I'll affirm what EricBu12 relates re the drain plug from Geno's with the spring-loaded, gated, tab. Mine has been on for a couple years, saves loads of time at each oil change, works flawlessly. Advise getting one.



Dr JC

 

[P Madrid]

After trying all kinds of plugs, o-rings and copper/aluminum/fiber sealing washers on my truck and customers trucks the one that has work the best has been the PLUG IT RIGHT drain plug but with a nylon washer. Here is what happens when the stock drain plug has been over torque: the flange is too thing causing the center portion to thread in and allowing the flange to bend out, at the same time the sheet metal on the oil pan pulls in, this part of the oil pan that is now pushed up is the area where the stock sealing washer seals at, that is the reason why most of the time you can't get it to seal after you install a new stock drain plug and washer. If you continue to use the old plug with the deform flange its only a matter of time before the flange brakes and you loose the oil. The main trick to get it to seal was to find a soft sealing washer that was the same size or bigger than the diameter of the flange. I tried copper and aluminum washer but it require about 50 lb ft to get it to seal. The fiber washers were the same but some required up to 60 lb ft. As you can see the stock drain plug flange is not strong enough to take that kind of torque. These tests were done with some test plugs that were made at a machine shop at a high price, $25. I came across the PLUG IT RIGHT drain plug During May-Madness and realized they already had a plug that I was trying to make to market and it was way cheaper that the ones I was working on. The only thing I did not like was the fiber washer that was supplied, it did not seal on my truck until 55 lb ft. I then started to search for a nylon washer, with the help of Dkevdog (Kev) we came up with one that had the perfect thickness and OD diameter but smaller ID. I ream the ID to fit the PLUG IT RIGHT drain plug and installed it. The sealing washer seal at 20 lb ft, I was not sure if I wanted to leave it at that torque so every other day I bump the torque to 5 lb ft more and stop at 40 bl ft. I do not like the idea of having to ream each washer so I'm still looking for some one who can make this in large numbers. If any one know of some one who can help me on this please get in contact with me.



Pablo