IN NEED OF IMMEDIATE ASSISTANCE!!!! helllpppp

[K_Arts]

Ok guys... I left Bill K's this morning and everything was good. Stopped after 12 hrs of driving in Butte, Montana. The wife and I let the truck sit for about an hour and decided to go get some dinner. Now I can not get my truck started!!

The batteries seem to still be alive. The headlights and everything works. But when I try to crank over the ignition I get nothing.

Any TDR members around the area that can help me??? Or do you guys have any suggestions?

If you can help... please feel free to phone me at the hotel we are trapped at. 406-494-8850 Room 108.

Thanks a million guys

Kev

 

[Piers]

Kev tried to call you but your lines busy. If it's not turning over, try starting it in neutral, or even moving the gearshift lever a bit while trying to crank it over. Check the neutral switch, it's on the drivers side of the trans just above the oil pan nearer the back of the center part of the trans. You can jumper a wire into the plug to bypass the switch. Give me a call at 1-604-814-3793

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Piers, BD engine R&D

 

[Mr. B]

Things to look at.
1. Under the intake manifold/heat plate is the ECM fuel/timming/etc modual connector.
It facing down about 15 degrees. Pull the connector down toward your driverside shock tower. Then pull the harness toward your water seperator/ fuel filter it should wiggel and kind of Pop off. Look to see if there had been any arking or black powder inside the connector. put it back the reverce way.
(What do the dash lights say? Does the starter crank?)
2. if the starter cranks then try to check the fuel pump. "Turn everthing off roll down the window open the hood. close the car door and turn the key to the start position then off. Do you hear the fuel pump running for 10-15 seconds. you should.
3. if the pump runs and the engine cranks Do you smell diesel at the tail pipe? if you do not then you have a syphing problem at the fuel rails and you need to borrow a 19mm wrench or cresent. make 2-3 1/4 turns on (1) of the fuel rail injector tubes. Crank the engine for 10-15 seconds. did the engine sputter. if yes tighten the nut back the same amount and cycle the fuel pump 2-3 times in the next 1-2 minuts.
4. if you are still not getting fuel look at the fuse panel next to the battery and also the one at the drivers door. I don't know what one contains the fuel pump fuse or the intake heater but look for these.
If the engine didn't ever even crank look for the starter solinoid on the trans and check connections. check the fuse box for relays and fuses and make sure they are intact and seated correctly.
Let us know what the dash display says and what is happening when you turn the key
Mike

 

[C1B1DIESEL]

if you got a clutch check the clutch switch. might not be woring when you push in clutch, unplug connector and jumper with wire or hair pin
might be ignition swith, or relay on firewall, you could jumper poss wire of starter to solonoid wire, but that is if the check engine lite and wait to start lite or working proper. if they on not working then the ecm will not be getting power either.

 

[WCrovo]

Give Bill a call. Piers what a nice guy. There is definately a brotherhood going on here.

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2001 2500 tow, camper, SWB, ETH/DEE, 3. 54 Bright white,4 wheel discs.

 

[CUMINNTSTRKN]

i read this about 9:00am this morning and tried to call and kev had checked out i hope all is good. if not let me know i live about 40 minutes away from butte.

jim

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2001 eth ez box and more on the way

 

[Maxs Dad]

Let us know what happened Pls - Then we'll have an idea on what to do if it happens to us!!!!

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Jim E. - Newbie to Diesels w/2001-2500Quad-4X4-LB-Bronze Beauty

 

[csutton7]

I called at 8:00am Montana time & he was gone--they didn't tell me when he checked out , but only that the room was empty---chris

------------------
chris sutton
1999 2500 qcab longbed 4x4 red sport w/ all the options 'cept plow pkg, 4:10 detroit locker in rear & front ARB,
5" skyjacker lift w/ 35" BFG mud terrains on 16. 5x9. 75 Weld rims, black nerf bars, black bug persuader, black lumber rack,
camel leather int. w/ mb quartz spkrs and 8" sub, power edge EZ, DTT vb & tc, mag hy-tec transmission pan, red magview diff covers &
coming soon: 275 injectors, L&L ladder bars, tubo temp monitor & guages on "A" pillar

[This message has been edited by csutton7 (edited 02-09-2001). ]

 

[Archive]

Still no luck? I just got up this morning and was reading and saw this.....

Whats the latest scoop?

 

[Todd T]

isnt there a TSB about blowing fuses? has any one had this problem does it sound the same?

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Todd,
2001 Q-cab SB 4x4 5spd 3. 55's, A pillar Boost/EGT, and more to come...

 

[Bigsaint]

Kevin... sorry I did not have any advice for a cure but real interested in what the problem was. Keep us posted.

Scott W

 

[K_Arts]

Hey there Guys... after 15hrs of driving. . finally got home. OK. . here is what the scoop is so far.

I had a guy Jeremy call me up last night who actually lives in Butte Montana. He was a ton of help. Thanks a million Jeremy!!

Well, we have a suspicion after talking to Bill Kondolay and his tech Vinnie that the problem is the Neutral Switch. Even though we couldn't get the truck started by jumping over that connector. So Jeremy tried a couple of things and put together a piece of wire about 3 inches long and just touched the positive side of the starter to the negative side, and she started right up. So even though this is a temporary fix, she will go in the shop Monday. So I will let you guys know what happens. I hope the my dealer doesn't decide to take my truck for a joy ride with Bill K's Killer transmission setup and my DD2's. ha ha ha

Thanks everyone for your support. It really means a lot to me to see how the TDR guys really join together when someone needs help.

Steve St. Laurent - Thanks for calling me up and offering me your expertise, that really helped out.

Piers - I'll call you as soon as I find out the scoop.

I'll let you guys know what happens.

 

[csutton7]

K-arts--I'm sure this was brought up, but just in case---when I did my vb install there was a resistor that went in the orange wire, was soldered in. Did this get done or did you check it out to make sure it's not loose or broken--I'm not sure that would have anything to do with starting or not starting, but maybe it's the culprit--could be a bad ignition switch also-----good luck & let us know---------chris

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chris sutton
1999 2500 qcab longbed 4x4 red sport w/ all the options 'cept plow pkg, 4:10 detroit locker in rear & front ARB,
5" skyjacker lift w/ 35" BFG mud terrains on 16. 5x9. 75 Weld rims, black nerf bars, black bug persuader, black lumber rack,
camel leather int. w/ mb quartz spkrs and 8" sub, power edge EZ, DTT vb & tc, mag hy-tec transmission pan, red magview diff covers &
coming soon: 275 injectors, L&L ladder bars, tubo temp monitor & guages on "A" pillar

 

[SmokinJoe]

How much were your lockers? Did you install them yourself? Did you order your truck with LSD and 4. 10?

Thanks,
Joe Greer II


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(2) Red 1990 Dodge Spirit RT 2. 2 Turbo cars
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD Modified
2001. 5 2500 4x4 on order...

 

[Jacobs]

You may want to check the wiring under the steering wheel trim cover if you have a tilt wheel. On my 95, I have had to repair the wire that feeds the crank circuit twice. There are two hot wires that feed the ignition switch on mine. If memory serves me correct they are on the outer edge of the flat connector that is under the steerring wheel.

Both times mine quit, the truck ran fine. I bumbed against the curb pulling into a parking space and shut down. Later the truck would not start. The wire breaks at the crimp of the connector. If you remove the lower cover and wiggle the wires, you should be able to see if one of the feeds is broken. I have just pushed the wire tight and held it in place while I cranked the engine and then drove it.


Good luck on finding a simple solution to your problem

 

[csutton7]

I know this doesn't belong here but since it was asked here I'll answer here SORRY-----
Smokin' joe--I think your asking me, if not I'm sorry--the lockers were added(I had a shop do it)- the truck came w/ 3:54 lsd--but with the 35" tires I didn't like the perf. , so I changed to the 4:10's---as for the cost I'm trying to figure it out---I had originally ordered a power lock for the front & the detroit locker for the rear, but the power lock wouldn't fit when they went to install it(eventhough the shop had confirmed w/ Precision gear that it would-something about the 4 whl actuator being in the way) anyway after looking at my bill after the ARB I think I got charged too much, but the salesperson I dealt with was off last week, so I'll get it straightened out this coming week, basically I think I've paid for a power lock install and an ARB install, $3500 spent to date--I'm probably stuck, but at least it'll be written off, eventhough I won't like it--- let the lashing begin, I'm ready & deserve it---chris

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chris sutton
1999 2500 qcab longbed 4x4 red sport w/ all the options 'cept plow pkg, 4:10 detroit locker in rear & front ARB,
5" skyjacker lift w/ 35" BFG mud terrains on 16. 5x9. 75 Weld rims, black nerf bars, black bug persuader, black lumber rack,
camel leather int. w/ mb quartz spkrs and 8" sub, power edge EZ, DTT vb & tc, mag hy-tec transmission pan, red magview diff covers &
coming soon: 275 injectors, L&L ladder bars, tubo temp monitor & guages on "A" pillar