In tank fuel pump not working (new)

[Ozymandias]

Or this, a lot cheaper.
https://www.genosgarage.com/product...mance-fuel-module-MFM20e/fuel-tank-components

But don't forget, the in-tank pump is far more reliable then the block mounted, you go back using this units.

 

[JR]

If I were doing

Well I think my wife threw out the old sending unit when she was going through the garage door big trash day. Do any of yall have a part # for another sending unit?

I have to agree with the others that in your situation the best bet would be to use the new pump in the tank. Less work than tearing back into it plus you have the peace of mind of a new lift pump. All you need to do is buy the correct harness and remove the block mounted pump from service.

 

[Turbowski]

Would that be a lift pump delete kit?

 

[DavidC]

I have read the many complaints of the block mounted pumps over the last 20 plus years. Mine is still there and have had zero problems with it for 20 years. The only true issue for fuel was the sump mounted screen clogging up with a vaseline like substance. That was removed and a Fleetguard inline filter installed.

 

[KATOOM]

The true history behind the OEM Carter lift pumps was that the pump was simply inferior by design. The pump impeller was glued on to the shaft which could release itself allowing the pump to make noise without pumping anything. Also the pressure release check ball was notorious for pushing itself into the pump housing which would over time cause pressure to drop whereby the once regulated 15 psi pumping pressure would drop down well below recommended pressures to assure the VP was provided adequate fuel. I understand Carter "updated" the lift pump a couple times trying to make them better and more reliable but I cant speak to what they did or how accurate that is.

The initial failure rate of the OEM block mounted Carter lift pump was very high and was also causing the VP injection pump to fail as well because of the interrupted fuel supply. It didnt help that the original VP's were built inferior too.....but thats a different topic. Nonetheless, Dodge was replacing so many lift pumps and injection pumps that a TSB was generated for a retrofit in-tank fuel pump which sits inside the fuel module. Since Dodge wasnt completely aware of what the true cause of failure was for the VP, they changed that in-tank pump to generate more flow but with less pressure. The in-tank fuel pump was shot in the right direction but still not the best solution for the real problem since the VP needs both steady pressure over 10 psi and adequate volume in order to remain properly cooled and lubricated. Its been considered through general consensus throughout the past couple decades that fuel pressure should be no less than 15 psi and somewhere in the 100 GPH range.

So in point, did all OEM lift pumps and VP's fail?.....no, they did not. Some never failed and some are still on the road today. But ignoring the large percentage of those which did fail over the percentage of those which didnt doesnt mean telling anyone that the OEM fuel pumps are reliable is the best advice.

My opinion is someone can run the OEM fuel pumps if they choose.....but definitely install a fuel pressure gauge to at least keep you in the loop as to what either of those OEM type fuel pumps are doing.

 

[DavidC]

Yes, a fuel pressure gauge is a must have. I have had one on mine since day 1. My 20 year old westach sending unit developed a leak at one of the terminals and while driving noticed the lower pressure of about 3 psi. When I stopped fuel was dripping/running out the front of the truck. Opening the hood revealed a good stream of fuel from the sending unit. Of course that unit is no longer made so I had to install a new gauge. The moral of the story is that it does let me know what is going on and if a fuel filter needs to be changed also.