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Increasing HP & Torque (bombing)

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ok fellows. . i have a 1999 stock with auto transmission,42000 miles... if i want to increase the hp and torque, should i first have transmission turned up by having a heavy duty torque converter and higher pressure pump installed and THEN do the engine with like a banks stinger or whatever you guys might recommend... i have to be turning 2100 RPM with a load to realize my optimum power now and that makes me exceed the speed limit... . help... thanks
 
BOMBs

superdave:

take a look at the thread currently running on "they're at it again". and also the one i started on fueling box comparisons, before you lay out any money... ...

herb
 
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28462



^^There's a get together in Texas, it's in the works.



The auto is fine for stock horsepower,, and can sometimes even be feathered for a while with just an EZ.



Do it right the first time. Bill Kondolay, the Auto transmission guru.

http://www.dieseltrans.com/DTTech/index.html

Bill K. 's transmission are behind Cummins that are doing everything from 1/4 mile times to towing 20K.



Give 'em a call.

If, depending on your needs,, the best thing for your auto transmission isn't one of his torque converters or valvbodies,, Bill K. will be the one to tell you. No BS.







Sheesh, and I have a 5-speed. He's good.



MerrickNJr
 
Do the transmission first. You'll notice a nice power increase just from that. Also, you'll get more power from an EZ than you will a Banks Stinger.
 
I went backwards......

The last thing I did was the transmission upgrades. And boy did I regret it. All that power and nowhere to go with it. As mentioned earlier the transmission upgrades will feel like you gained power because it will actually be going to the ground now.



Then if the cash flow allows you can get a box and injectors and an exhaust and a better air filter and a new turbo and... ... ... ... ... .



Garrett
 
your close to me kinda...

Originally posted by superdave

does DTT have sales and installation available in East Texas, near Dallas or Tyler or Longview?????



Yeah there is a guy in Waxahack that does Bill's stuff. I will have to see him next year.



AJB
 
Do it properly.

Superdave,



First off this is a great bunch of people to get opinions from.



There is a proper order to upgrading your Cummins/Dodge. It was written by Ted Jannetty and here it is:



1) Guages, boost Pyrometer, optional transmission temp, or fuel pressure.

2) K&N air filter in the stock air box or a JRE Cold air Kit with Heat sheild.

3) 4" exhaust turbo to tail pipe, preferably mandrel bent aluminized.

4) Then some sort of fuel enhancements, i. e. Van AAken CPC or larger injectors, but not both at the same time until upgrades to the torque converter and valve body on Auto's, or a clutch on a manual

5) High quality low stall converter, preferably 1600 rpm, and a valve body modifications to recalibrate to handle the extra power.

I prefer the Star performance clutch on the manuals.

6) Depending on what you choose on #4 finish the job with injectors or Box.

7) 1/2 inch fuel system to feed that hungry powerhouse, and keep that injection pump cool and lubricated.

8) 7psi 100 gal. hr. pusher pump at tank.

9) 15 psi 100 gal. hr. lift pump on engine.

10) US Gear 20% Overdrive auxillary transmission so you can use all that new found power.

How's 1800 rpms at 75 mph sound?

11) A BD turbo mount exhaust brake to slow her down.



I would strongly recommend that you follow this order.



By the way, remember that all people are entitled to their opinions. ;)





p. s. Fill in your signature with your truck specifications. It helps out a lot.



Paul
 
Increasing HP & Torque(bombing)

superdave,



When modifying a Dodge Ram its not just the parts you put on the truck that determine how its going to work for you.



There are so many lies that are being told to the pcm, and i dont mean people lying to you , what i mean is that when you modify your truck most people accept the fact that their fuel calculator for one is no longer accurate. (that kind of lying is what i mean)



The pcm( power control module) that controls your automatic transmission relies on 3 basic inputs to control the governor solenoid.



1) tps, the tps basically monitors your throttle position when you are going down the road.



Most guys will tell you after they bomb their trucks what used to take them 3/4 throttle now takes them 1/2 throttle to achieve the same vehicle speed output.



The more you bomb your truck the greater the differencs are,



2)) transmission pressure sensor inside the vb,

Whether you add a shift kit, vb, or whatever to your transmission which you will have to do to increase the line pressure to keep the clutches inside the transmission from slipping,



keep in mind - as you increase the pressures in your transmission the pcm will pick up on that and sense something is wrong and put you into limp mode.



Dont worry about that , there is an easy fix for that, by adding a resistor in line you can fool the pcm into thinking you have stock pressures.



Boy that was easy right, $1. 00 from Radio Shack and now you have your truck running pretty good, sounds simple enough right?



The only thing now to consider is that every action has a reaction,

see the pcm uses the pressure sensor on the vb as one of the inputs for controlling transmission shift points.



OK , so now we have lied to the tps, and lied to the pressure sensor, the third input the pcm uses is the vehicle speed sensor.



A lot guys tend to put on over sized tires, now your truck is going faster than what your vehicle speed sensor is indicating.



I am not going to proceed to tell you how to bomb your truck only you can decide that.



If you are in a rural area not much stop and go traffic. most of this stuff will not affect you too much, however if you do a lot of city driving light throttle, IF NOT SET UP PROPERLY you will be one unhappy customer and the drivability in the city will suck.



The guys installing your products and yourself are one of the key factors to having a nice working drivable truck.



I realize most of you guys want good performance but i know you also want good drivablility and durability and the guy setting up the truck must understand that.



I cant stress enough how critical the set up is.



If you are light foot driver most of the time it is even more critical than a guy that drives around with a heavy foot.



You 12 valve guys same senario, garbage in = garbage out set up too is a huge factor for you guys.





When i was in Texas there were a lot of guys running different systems, it may be helpful to hook up with one of them and test drive their stuff so you can experience the differences before you choose .
 
Re Bill Kondaly's Post

Bill,

That was a good post on upgrading the Dodge. Wouldn't be any doubt in my mind,on whose upgrade I would use. I almost wish I had an auto so I could use your stuff. <G>.

Fuzz
 
Just another opinion. . .

I have not found the 4" exhaust to help with Rams under 350 hp, and the stock airbox gives the same results as no filter on the dyno with engines up to 500 hp.

You can usually do one enhancement, like a mild fueling box or moderately larger injectors, on the stock automatic trans. Still, you will eventually want/need trans modifications.

Several TDR advertisers offer trans upgrades. Each has its fans, justifiably so. For example, at the Tulare show and sled pulls, several folks expressed satisfaction with Bill K's approach, and on the other hand, the BD truck did extremely well in the pulls, showing it has both high power and a well set up automatic transmission.
 
joe d , i have to disagree with your stock airfilter/box comment . i saw a 10 hp increase between the stock airbox and factory filter and the box lid proped open on back to back dyno runs , this was with my HP mods at their highest settings , when i turned my power edge fueling box down one setting there was a 14 hp diference between the stock box open and closed . the open lid was same hp that i had run 1 hour earlier with the K+N RE-0880.



i would also like to point out #7 on that list that is posted by berserker ... not necessary in the testing i have done , i'm putting over 400HP to the ground with the factory lines and pickup . i also ran a test on the factory pickup and fuel line vs. a 1/2 inch pickup and line , there was no difference in fuel return to the tank and no difference in fuel pressure at the inlet to the VP44 if i remember correctly , i'll have to dredge up the topic that the info is posted on .



while the pusher pump is a good idea to keep the lift pump on the engine alive it seems to be giving those with this setup unusually high pressures at the input to the injection pump . i have seen postings claiming anywhere from 17psi to 30psi . this has to have a negative effect as now the pump is cavitating because the fuel is going nowhere fast, heating the fuel in the process .



if you feel the need to run this setup it would be wise to install a pressure regulator with a return back to the tank between the fuel filter and the injection pump and set it to no more than the factory spec of 15psi . if the engine demand rises it will use the fuel and the return will shutdown allowing the fuel to go to the pump .



brian roth is this the type of negativity you are speaking of ?
 
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