Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Inframe rebuild

[moparguy]

I know, pull the engine. Well a few years ago I did that on a auction purchased 98 12V club cab 4x4. Lots of work what with pulling everything north of the block including bumper, grill, radiator, inter-cooler, condenser and so-on and then sliding engine out the front. But obviously it's just work.

Now the wife's 98 12v is smoking like a freight train, oil drips out the exhaust and #3 is dead. I'm working 1500 miles away on a pipeline project so nephew inlaw (diesel mechanic) pulled #3 injector, looked in with a bore scope and saw no hole. However he's convinced there's a hole in the piston he that can't see or ring lands broke or something alongthose lines due to engine oil running out the exhaust. Wants to pull engine and do a proper rebuild. Me...... since the truck only pulls the occasional horse trailer (was doing same when it started smoking like it was on fire) I don't want or need to spend that kind of money. She can use my 95. But it does need to be back on the road. So I'm considering seeing if he'll pull the head, remove the motor mounts, raise the engine, pull the pan, check the bores and probably pull #3 out the top. Repair as needed and reverse procedure, crank up and drive on.

Anyone gone this route, if so any comments or suggestions.

Thanks,

RR

 

[Simplysmn]

Why put a Band aid on and bigger problem .I would just pull the Motor and do it Once and Do it Right ? save time in the long run .

 

[moparguy]

Why put a Band aid on and bigger problem .I would just pull the Motor and do it Once and Do it Right ? save time in the long run .

Excellent point. However the truck only sees a 1,000 to 2,000 miles or so a year, it's 16 years old and being two wheel drive, it wouldn't be worth what it'd cost to do a total/everything rebuild (and everyone's idea of doing it right varies, to me it'd be new pistons, rings, bearings, rebuild head, bore and deck block, and if I was going to drive it a few hundred thousand miles I'd have it balanced). Now the wife and I are in our sixty's, it ain't gonna get that many miles from us pulling a horse trailer a 1,000ish miles annually over the next 10 years. If I can get it going for a couple thousand and it serves our needs, at least it's not a growing weeds in the bed with the tires rotting off. It's too good to sell for scrap, but not worth investing several thousand in, too me at least.

So, we're sincerely looking forward to any constructive comments.

Thanks,
RR

 

[STeichert]

I did just this on my brothers '94 2wd. It was pretty easy, number 6 was bad, and i just replaced the piston, rings,bearings, and valves . I pulled it out the top like you said and put a new head gasket in going back together. The truck ran great for years afterwards. He just sold it this summer and never had an engine issue. I think the job cost less than $1,000 all total.

 

[Simplysmn]

Why not just pick up a motor out of a wreck or someone parting a truck that way you could just swap it over a weekend and be done . I know you would be buying unknown but I buy truck's all the time and end up pretty good 99% of the time .

 

[moparguy]

Update: I wrapped up my North Dakota project in late December and got around to working on the wifes truck a few weeks ago. After spending a full day degreasing and cleaning, I pulled the head......found a blown headgasket on number three. The rockers oil thru the head gasket via a port in the head that's about a 1/2" or so from the cylinder. The gasket failed between the oil port and cylinder....it was pulling oil in on the intake stroke. No pressure in the cooling system and the blow-by wasn't that bad.

I had the head milled (it was 13 thou out), installed a Cummins 10 over gasket and a thousand miles or so later no problems. The pistons and cylinder walls all looked great. Since everything was clean I took the opportunity to pull the timing cover and install a new crank seal with a speedy sleeve so now no oil leaks. All's good.

I'm actually feeling pretty lucky since it could have been much worse. Still a pain in the rear though!

RR

 

[gcorron]

Moparguy,
Good news, real glad to hear. Let's face it, these things are nearly bulletproof if treated with a little bit of respect. I hope you get another 20 out of it!

Hmm, 1970 Duster 340, my brother had one of those, I had a 72 Cuda, neither one even close to stock, hard to justify 4 mpg these days, but sure make a quick trip to the store!

George

 

[Woodenhead]

Just for the record, bad turbo seals can also be a cause of oil in the exhaust. I was going to suggest checking this but I see you've got it fixed up. Glad it was a relatively simple fix for you.

 

[CRodi]

How smart are these computers?
Still can't figure them out.
Anyone else click on to moparguy's Duster link in his signature and see what come's out. What an insult

I was expecting to see pictures of his 1970 mopar.

 

[moparguy]

LOL CRodi, I agree, that just ain't right. If I could fix, I would.....any help appreciated.

 

[Simplysmn]

You could try posting a Link to your photo bucket account pictures and then rename it to Duster ?

 

[MMeier]

Did you do the KDP while you were in there ? .... And, a Miata with a 5.0 ?? !! :--)

 

[moparguy]

Yep, killed kdp's in both trucks 10 plus years ago.