Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Injection Pump keyway....little help please

[BDrawdy]

My injection pump is quickly heading south and I'm considering attempting the injection pump install myself. I have conducted a ton of research on this site regarding this issue and also have the service manual. Everything looks straight forward except the keyway issue. I understand the line up at 12 o'clock and all, but what exactly is the keyway? Is is a piece of metal, and does it come out with the old pump or what? Do I put the keyway in the notch on the new pump and then install, or slimply line up the notch after leaving the keyway in place?



This keyway issue is very intimidating to me. I do not want to dig in a gear case for a lost one. I'm wondering it it's worth the 300-400 labor someone would charge to do this.



By the way, any other TDR members in the South Georgia area that might provide a little guidance/assistance on this project?



Thanks for such a great site and resource...

 

[Sixpack]

The keyway is the notch in the shaft on the injection pump. In the keyway will be a staked key that fits in a notch in the pump gear. Just take your time it's not that involved unless you lose the key. BTDT...

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

For sure, we hear enough about the key falling out of its matching groove in the pump shaft and mating gear, and on down inside the geartrain to make us a bit apprehensive.



But on the 3 different pumps I have had in my hands, the key seemed quite solidly staked/retained into the pump's tapered shaft to keep it secure.



In the process of swapping out a pump, it's pretty easy to use a small mirror to visually locate the pump keyway and key - and to then bar the engine over to get the keyway into the 12 o'clock position so that if it DOES happen to be loose, it will be more unlikely to fall free into the engine as the pump itself is carefully slid from the engine casing.



The same general attention must be used as the pump gear retaining nut and washer are removed as well - some guys will press a dowel or similar against the end of the pump shaft, then carefully slide the nut and washer out onto that as a safeguard against their dropping as they are removed - but usually, just decent care is all that's really needed, for those or the key.



It's a good idea to verify that the key is securely retained into the pump shaft on reassembly as well, and if not, a small prick-punch can be used to slightly dimple the shaft on either side of the key to upset the metal and tightly hold the key in place as the pump is installed - just make sure the key is fully and properly seated into it's groove when you retain it.



Then, once the pump is reinstalled, use the mirror again to verify the key is still in the shaft and gear keyways - that will be easier to see if you put a bit of white paint on the end of the key so it will show up easier as viewed from the end.



Good luck - it's not nearly as difficult or complicated as it sounds...

 

[BDrawdy]

So, the key should come out with the old injection pump? and, I can assume that the new pump will come with a new key to which it's been calibrated?



Do you guys try to take the key out before the pump, or just leave it in the keyway and remove it with the pump?



Thanks so much for the info... . you've cleared alot of things up

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

So, the key should come out with the old injection pump? and, I can assume that the new pump will come with a new key to which it's been calibrated?



Do you guys try to take the key out before the pump, or just leave it in the keyway and remove it with the pump?



Thanks so much for the info... . you've cleared alot of things up

The key SHOULD come out with the pump - and a new pump will have it's own key already installed - there are several different Bosch key "offsets" to allow precise gear-to-pump timing for each specific pump - the key is stamped with a ID # that matches a number stamped into the pump body - there's also an arrow stamped into the key that must point towards the pump for proper offset and timing.

 

[BDrawdy]

Good deal... . you guys have been really helpful... ... I'm going to jump on this one and see if I can whip it... I changed the lift pump last weekend, cleared the codes, and thought I solved the problem. I have lots of power back, and no more codes, but the mighty Cummins is being a littler temperamental at times about cranking... . I'm thinking the injection pump is not liking the higher fuel pressure of the new lift pump :{



Now, just have to decide if I want to relocate the lift pump and install a pressure gauge, or leave it at the stock location and install the gauge...



Thanks everybody and I'll let you know how it turns out...

 

[SLightfoot]

All these info threads are very helpful indeed.



I'm probably going to be replacing my VP on Tuesday if all goes well.



Just discovered that I'm the lucky owner of a '99 -all of which require a new rear suport bracket to be used in addtion to the new pump.



If you are replacing your VP, I've understand that all trucks from 98. 5 through 2000 should use a new rear support bracket. The original ones cracked and broke, and could lead to VP failure.



Shawn

 

[BDrawdy]

Mine is 2001. 5. Hopefully I won't run into this broke bracket issue. Between worn susupension components to fuel system issues, my truck (and many others it seems) has turned into a green headed dollar eater. Although I like the design, this will likely be my last Dodge/Cummins. . at 130+Km the truck nor the engine have lived up to the billing. We'll see..... good luck

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Mine is 2001. 5. Hopefully I won't run into this broke bracket issue. Between worn susupension components to fuel system issues, my truck (and many others it seems) has turned into a green headed dollar eater. Although I like the design, this will likely be my last Dodge/Cummins. . at 130+Km the truck nor the engine have lived up to the billing. We'll see..... good luck

I have to largely agree!



If we didn't want/need the increased power and general economy of the diesel, I'd probably have a Toyota gasser for lighter duty. Many of today's gas engines, with decent care, often see in excess of 200K miles without engine overhaul or replacement - so the diesel longevity advantage has greatly disappeared - and then toss in VP-44, suspension and other similarly common early failures with our trucks, and the long haul confidence related to diesel/DC reliability start getting VERY fuzzy!



While something like a full-size Toyota is down on power compared to a Cummins powered Dodge, and perhaps less economical in heavy hauling service, the added original cost of the Cummins will buy lots of gas to offset the economy angle - and I wouldn't need to carry a full set of spare injection and lift/pusher pumps, and then have nagging worries in the back of my mind on every long trip thru isolated areas when out on RVing trips...



Don't get me wrong, I love my '02, in spite of scattered added expenses like fuel system mods and VP-44 replacement - and plan to keeep it for the long haul - but NEXT time I consider a truck buy, my viewpoint and buying decision could well be far from anything DC offers...

 

[klaybus]

Gasser?

While I have to agree with some of Garys comments, I still feel the Cummins is the best of the diesels available today. While DC certainly has it's share of problems, Ford & GM has theirs as well. I tried pulling our first 5vr (smaller & lighter then our current 5vr) with a gasser & it failed miserably! Perhaps with a big-block it would have performed better but with my Cummins, it's simply AWESOME! I can't speak to the Power-Stroke or Duramax as I have not owned them but with my Cummins -vs- a gasser it is truly night & day. I will live with DC's short comings until something better is available & within my budget... Just my opinion FWIW



Clay

 

[AndrewGray]

I have to agree . Im gettin fed up with my '02 cummins eatin up my money. My vp just took a dump so now got to find one and get it goin. Ill keep it for another year then im tradin and goin back to a gasser. I have had all brands of diesels since chevy first 5. 7 and never ever had spent so much to keep it runnin. Im afraid to pull with it or drive it over 100 miles!! I use my '89 chevy 1 ton srw 4x4 for all my towin and it has the 454 in it!! It at least gets me there and back and is trustworthy!!

 

[BDrawdy]

My fathers owns a '93 3500 Ramw/ Cummins... after seeing how this engine performed for over 500,000 miles, I was sold on the combo. What's really sad is Dodge's neglect of this issue. I am one individual to which $1500. 00 is a chunk. I can understand these kinds of things happening to some people, but to a large portion of a particular group of trucks; this is ridiculous. I am probably going to replace this injection pump, drive it a bit to break it in, and let it go. I hate to do so, it's paid for, but for the meticulous maintenance I've poured into this truck, I don't feel justly rewarded.