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injection pump problems on my '92 d250 with A/T

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All of a sudden doesn't want to Idle

Fuel Supplements

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So I have been having lack of power issues with my truck for some time now. I can step on the accelerator and there is nothing there ( no guts at all) I can ease away from an interstcton and slowly build up speed but definitely no tire spinning power.

I had major problems with my transmission and just had it rebuilt thinking that the major slippage issues could be at fault... $1900.00 and WRONG.

so now I am down to the injection pump... the fuel lines are free and lift pump was just replaced (and has good fuel pressure)

A suggestion was made that the AFC diaphragm might have a leak in it so I decided to get a new one and replace it while I turn my fuel pin ;-)

The pin was a little difficult to get out but it finally came. There was a little dark red corrosion on the fuel pin and around the little pin that rides on it.

NOW FOR MY QUESTION:
It is my belief that the small pin in the injection pump that rides on the Fuel pin might be stuck in the recessed postion. Is this something that can be freed with minimal work or does the pump need to be torn down (out of my scope of knowledge)?
I was thinking of spraying something like wd-40 or carb cleaner in the hole amd working tgevpin back and forth to free it up then sucking the residue out.
Any ideas?


(Oh and i hydro tested my intercooler and lines to make sure there were not any boost leaks too)

P.S. sorry this was posted using my phone. Computer is down for now

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yes you should beable to spray down in there with wd40 and make sure the pin moves while your at it turn the fuel pin and turn the star wheel also
 
I also noticed that the wire going from the sir temp sensor to the pimp looks to be discolored between the resistor and the pump. Could the resistor have failed and damaged the wire in the process?

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Boost gauge is reading about 2psi, fuel is showing 12 psi. But that is trying to drove over an overpass. Pedal to the floor truck is barely reaching 25 mph on the up hill side. I'm afraid to take it up a steep grade until I solve this issue.
And I haven't installed a pyro gauge yet. But it was ordered yesterday since I turned the fuel pin.

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How is the fuel filter ? Ive seen them with plastic wrapper in them that you dont see until its ran that some how come into view that wasnt there before in stall . Is the air cleaner clogged ? If you have corrosin inside the pump you might have some stuck injectors ? Have you tried a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the the pump ? you can also try pulling the plunger out of the fuel sylinoid shut off . If all that checks out id try a can of fuel running into the pump to see how it runs and by pass the lift pump , you might try a real heavey dose of injector cleaner
 
Am I correct that the AFC has a breather on it so it is dry. I'm getting around 12psi of fuel pressure to the pump. (Fuel gauge plumbed in after lift pump) the fuel filter is new I just put it in 2 weeks ago.

Correct me if I'm wrong maybe someone that has done it can answer this. Doesn't the AFC come off as a unit to install the governer spring? If it does I think I may be able to take the whole unit out and clean it

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Like Donovan said, check the fuel solenoid and make sure you are getting fuel through to the pump; pull the plunger out. While you are doing this, verify you don't have a clogged line from the filter to the pump, it's along shot but any easy check. If all this checks out, you either go into the pump or replace it. My new reman pump cost $1000 a few years back, took most of a day to swap it. If you have corrosion, you may want to pull the sticks and have them cleaned and tested.
 
ok so here is an update on the injection pump problem...

after a LOT of reading on sevral forums and found out that it is a somewhat common thing.
After taking the throttle lever off and removing the allen-head cap from the front of the AFC and working the fuel control pin in and out of its hole several times it now works as it should. I put everything back together again using the pictures i took of the reference marks
View attachment 87855

while i was in there i turned the star wheel 2 clicks counter clockwise (baby steps i know) and turned the cone around another 15deg. to the deepest part of the cone.

it seems to idle a little higher than normal (just by sound of engine)

I took it out on a test drive I was suprised to see how much that fix had changed. It still just barely smokes a little but the power that I never knew I had is amazing. I always thought it was a worn transmission that was robbing me of power:--)
 
sorry here was the picture that I tried to post in previous message showing my throttle linkage marks:
throttle linkage marks - Copy.jpg

DVolk,
As you can see im not that brave either but i am taking (YAWN) baby steps.
As said before "its a slippery slope" I had a `73 international scout II that I was going to keep "stock" but then... parts were discontinued and "performance" parts were available:-laf the dang thing could climb up the side of the building but couldn't go over 70mph on the interstate without hitting red line.

I just want to be able to get on the interstate at highway speeds (on ramps here in Mobile AL can be really short) and tow my tractor without thinking in the back of my head "come on baby just a little more" while going up a hill on a country road

I also now have seen the real need to get a tach. I have a friend that is a cummins mechanic and I have been able to use his "plug in tac" that he uses for service but as it is Mardi Gras season here he will be out of pocket for a few weeks (sigh)

throttle linkage marks.jpg


throttle linkage marks - Copy.jpg
 
I just dont like the idea of opening the pump , out side adjustment are diffrent just a pain to get at , althoughwhen it come time for a re build then it get the spring and what ever else , although it runs like its been turned up before i bought it in 96
 
With a mostly stock pump, I wouldn't worry about a tach... just my opinion... That pump is not easily going to overspin without quite a few mods. Just run it until is quits pulling hard and shift! :D Really, though, you're not going to go over 2800rpm unless your pump has been played with before you got it, and your lower end will easily take over 3500 rpm.... If you've got good oil pressure, you're not going to hurt that engine.

And for a reference, if you pull the plunger out of the fuel shutoff solenoid, there is no shutting it down with the key... there is, however, a small lever on the side of the pump which is a manual fuel shut off... if it was on an older tractor, it'd have a cable run to it.... or an old Dodge with electrical problems :rolleyes:
 
See HHhuntitall I have looked for the manual shut off lever and i dont believe that mine has the lever. maybe it was messed with before i got it in 2007.

And the reason for the Tach. is that i am not a trusting soul. I know the govenor inthe pump wont let it over rev but I worry about the transmission messing up again and alowing it to over rev the motor.

Drove the truck all day today and it sems that something is missing in the transmission. It gets to about 70mph on the interstate and it sounds like it is reving high. Oh well guess to be on the safe side its time to start shopping for a pyro and a tach lol... what did someone sat about slippery slope??Oo.
 
They all have the mechanicle shut down , is your linkages good and not all sloppy ? ive seen that ive scraped myplastic junk !!
It sounds like your od is not working or your speedo is way off
 
the marks are located on the bottom half of the linkage assembly. afteryoutake off the 8mm allen head screw and separate the top lever from the bottom lever (top attaches to throttle linkage and bottom is mounted on the pump)

I will have to look at the pump some more. where exactly is the shut down lever located onthe pump?
 
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