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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Injection pump R&R video - VP-44

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Someone posted a great video on removing and replacing the VP44 injection pump. Did a search but can't find it. Anyone know where I can find that? :rolleyes:
 
I'ed like to see that also. It doesn't look like a difficult swap but there's something about that woodruff key falling into the timing cover that scares the crap out of me.

I'm surprised someone hasn't done a general maintenance video: brakes, valve adjustment, U-joints, VP, LP, etc. . Might be a best seller here at TDR!

Mike
 
Diesel Dan is the Man!!! Very informative, and it makes me not so apprehensive to try it myself, when the time comes to replace mine. Thanks Dan!!!
 
Seeing this set of videos I finally ordered my gear removal tool, yes I can do this.



I still need a little MORE explanation of exactely what 12'oclock on the keyway means. Yeah, does it mean 12'oclock +- 0*, +- 5*, or to keep the keyway up so it does not drop the key.



Yes STICKY this post!



Bob Weis
 
Seeing this set of videos I finally ordered my gear removal tool, yes I can do this.



I still need a little MORE explanation of exactely what 12'oclock on the keyway means. Yeah, does it mean 12'oclock +- 0*, +- 5*, or to keep the keyway up so it does not drop the key.



Yes STICKY this post!



Bob Weis



It just means keep the key/keyway UP so the key has less chance of falling out and down into the geartrain - also makes a good reference point to preset the VP-44 shaft to when installing the new pump into place...



Some guys suggest Crazy Gluing the key in place - but the keys in the several pumps I have seen were pretty solidly in place...
 
I watched diesel Dan's video's and successfully changed my VP-44 2 weeks ago. If you run into trouble re-watch the video. He suggest marking up the key some more then tapping it into the key way. He suggested using a punch and giving a few whacks, one on each side. I just want to caution you when you do that. Don't whack it like a nail head. Just give it some easy taps, the key is very soft and deforms easy.

When removing the injector lines follow the information to the tee. The outside lines are the first 3. The bottom one is way down on the bottom the other 2 are on the side. Then remove the last 3 starting with the top then the bottom. This will allow you to remove the middle one. You will need to bend the top line a bit to get enough movement to remove the middle one. Reinstall starting with the middle one first.

The back injector line nut (#6) is hard to get at and takes some effort to loosen it.

Also, I had to use a cheater pipe to break the engine lift bracket bolts loose.

Make sure you get a mirror to get the key pointed to the top. It will be opposite of the TDC line on the gear. So when you have it close the TDC indicator should be at the bottom of your mirror, with the key at the top, take your time. The engine turning with the alternator nut only works one way. So if the keys in the 10 O'clock position you will have to turn it quite a few times to get it back to the 12 O'clock position.

Before you start, get a card table or some sort of bench near your work area, to have everything laid out, so you can easily work on this project.
This project is a level 3 to 4 (1 easy to 5 hard) repair. If you have pulled your rotors or ball joints this will be easy.

Also Dan mentioned that you should take the time to replace the cam sensor while doing this. I thought this did not apply to me because I had a 1999, and thought that was something only found on 2001-2002. I was wrong. If you have time, go get the part and do it now. If it fails later, you WILL have to remove the pump again to replace it.
Good luck!

Chris Brandt
Anchorage, AK
 
Wish I knew about these videos when I did mine. Would have resolved a few issues I had while doing mine.

I just turned everything until the key was pointing generally up. Took out the old VP stood it on my bench next to the new VP. I made sure that I didn't turn the old pump at all, and just lined up the new pump key as best I could. Then had someone watch with a mirror as I slid the new pump and place. Worked out really well, everything went together without a hitch.
 
Now we have a new level of maintenance videos.



Need videos on changing injectors, brakes, ... ... . Let's get a list together and see what can the library should have in it.



Bob Weis
 
I'ed like to see that also. It doesn't look like a difficult swap but there's something about that woodruff key falling into the timing cover that scares the crap out of me.

I'm surprised someone hasn't done a general maintenance video: brakes, valve adjustment, U-joints, VP, LP, etc. . Might be a best seller here at TDR!

Mike



ive done 2 pumps now and from my experience those set keys are in there pretty good so no real worry about them fallin out.



not saying it couldnt happen or the chance isnt there but it rather unlikly
 
Maintenance Video's

Now we have a new level of maintenance videos.



Need videos on changing injectors, brakes, ... ... . Let's get a list together and see what can the library should have in it.



Bob Weis



Here's a starter list:

a. fuel/oil/air filters

b. transmission/differential drain

c. coolant fluid drain/refill

d. brake bleeding

e. APPS replacement

f. MAP, IAT and other sensors

g. valve lash adjustment

h. water pump/thermostat

i. LP swap

j. brakes

k. U joints

l. VP44

m. vacuum pump



I think most of this could be done with a basic set of tools and a video. When you start getting into the clutch, heads, cams etc... it might get beyond the average guy/gal (it's beyond me!).

Anyway. . this should get the ball rolling.

Mike
 
We also have Pump Gear Pullers that works on all Cummins applications. We do this for your convenience and they're cheap. Thanks
 
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