Injector connector tubes

[ryecreek]

May have to replace a leaker. here are the questions:

Cummins part# for tubes (truck in sig{ISB 305}) where can i get the #'s myself

where to get the *special*tool for the tubes locallly (napa cummins mopar) i hope

do i even need the tool can i cut one with a lathe and mill or is it a simple deal(pipe with inside threads:-laf or some deal like that)

can i just get new o-rings (or is it worth it)

anything i need to know replacing them other than fact. manual says

 

[Bob4x4]

No special tool needed,a pocket screwdriver will lever them out with vey little effort. The o-rings normaly don't cause any problems but are cheap insurance you won't create a new one. I see more problems with the nuts coming loose or a sloppy install.



Bob

 

[ryecreek]

Thanks just read a write up from source aoutmotive bout loose nuts

if ya thought ya had a leak would you re o-ring or replace the tube

 

[SHobbs]

ryecreek,



Like Bob said the tubes are very easy to remove with a small pocket screwdriver as far as making them on your own, no deal IMHO. Once you see one you will know why. I had my parts guy at Cummins order a parts book for me, it's the same one he uses to look up parts for the Dodge Cummins trucks. The book cost me about $30. You can also go to Quickserve online a Cummins website, pay a fee of I think $50 per year and have the same access as the parts book.



As far as the leak the O-ring is the easiest and cheapest possible fix. Also make sure you have the nuts on the high pressure lines tight enuff but not too tight. I have been told that too loose will leak as well as too tight. I think the torque spec is 29ft/lbs.

 

[Slow Six]

Mine were steel to steel, at least at the injector end and showed signs of erosion so had to be changed. Injectors were also suspect or not long before needing changing so I had them done at the same time. This engine has never started as good or run as nice as it does after the changes. I had the work done at an independent diesel shop (not a dealership) that I have trusted since my first diesel. It was costly but well worth it.

 

[TCDiesel]

Ryecreek, You Do NOT need to remove Them, Remove the Lines and Check connector nut if tight they will NOT leak . If loose torque to (37ft lbs)

Each fuel injector is connected to the fuel rail by a

high-pressure fuel line with a steel connector. This

steel connector is positioned into the cylinder head

and sealed with an o-ring. The connectors are sealed

to the high-pressure fuel lines with fittings. The ferrule

on the end of the high-pressure fuel line pushes

against the steel connector when the fuel line fitting

is torqued into the cylinder head. This torquing force

provides a sealing pressure between both the fuel

line-to-connector and the fuel connector-to-fuel injector.

The fitting torque is very critical. If the fitting

is under torqued, the mating surfaces will not

seal and a high-pressure fuel leak will result. If the

fitting is over torqued, the connector and injector will

deform and also cause a high-pressure fuel leak. This

leak will be inside the cylinder head and will not be

visible. The result will be a possible fuel injector

miss-fire and low power.

 

[cerberusiam]

The connector tube tool is Miller 9015 connector tube puller. Its made by SPX and can be ordered online here: SPX Miller Special Tools | Main





The torque and alignment on the tube is CRITICAL. If you do not use the tool and do not do it correctly you run the risk of messing things up badly.



The tool is relatively inexpensive compared to the cost of these trucks and the parts. Order it and take a look at this link for some goo dinfo on do's and dont's.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...148621-injector-install-procedure-photos.html

 

[Bob4x4]

I will agree that the injector and tube should be carefully installed... ... ... ..... but to say the tube pulling tool is important is laughable. :-laf

 

[Bob4x4]

You might also note that in the pic post you linked to the tube puller is installed on the tube with the nut still in place... ... ... ... ... more laughs

 

[rbattelle]

You might also note that in the pic post you linked to the tube puller is installed on the tube with the nut still in place... ... ... ... ... more laughs

Did you read the post above that pic?

Using Miller 9015 connector tube puller, thread the tool into the connector tube and pry/pull the tube straight out. The nut is still in place in the photo, but obviously needs to be removed first. If you don't have the 9015, you really risk damaging the connector tube threads if the tube sticks in the head.

If it were me, I'd get the special tool. I trust sag2's advice absolutely.

Ryan

 

[cerberusiam]

I will agree that the injector and tube should be carefully installed... ... ... ..... but to say the tube pulling tool is important is laughable. :-laf

As with any tool, if somebody makes it there is probably a good reason for it.



I have no doubt that somebody that does these injectors every day knows all the little tricks and how NOT to cause problems. The rest of us are rank amateurs and need all the help we can get. :-laf



The $120 I spent on the 2 SPX tools is well worth knowing I have done as much as possible to eliminate several areas for error. After all, using screw drivers to bang nails is not the optimum.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Replacement of injectors and connector tubes is covered in Issue 51, p. 97. Having done quite a few sets of injectors on Third Generation Turbo Diesels by now, I can say that often you can pull out the connector tubes with your fingers, and if not, a small screwdriver works fine. A leak could be caused by the o-rings but also by a poor seal between the injection line and the connector tube. Often that seal can be improved by carefully polishing the line end with fine aluminum oxide paper, and spray cleaning so absolutely no grit could get/remain in the line. Lightly grease the threads and mating surface of the nut to the tube and torque to 37 ft-lb. The line should be torqued to 22 ft-lb although hand tightening to about that level has worked fine. By the way, Bob4x4 works at a dealership so has possibly changed more injectors than any of the rest of us on the forum.

 

[ryecreek]

ryecreek,



Like Bob said the tubes are very easy to remove with a small pocket screwdriver as far as making them on your own, no deal IMHO. Once you see one you will know why. I had my parts guy at Cummins order a parts book for me, it's the same one he uses to look up parts for the Dodge Cummins trucks. The book cost me about $30. You can also go to Quickserve online a Cummins website, pay a fee of I think $50 per year and have the same access as the parts book.



As far as the leak the O-ring is the easiest and cheapest possible fix. Also make sure you have the nuts on the high pressure lines tight enuff but not too tight. I have been told that too loose will leak as well as too tight. I think the torque spec is 29ft/lbs.

I was not asking bout making the tubes but the tool to remove them sounds like a screwdrive makes a good special tool:-laf

Thank you to everybody for the help gonna work on it today btw this is one more thing i'm checking due to a hard/no start you can read here https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-p0193-wont-start-rough-idle-update-help.html

and i do believe i have a leak somewhere @ #6 thanks again