Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Injector instalation

[EGaskamp]

Well I finally got the money today, so on my lunch break so I called Chris at Relintlesss Diesel and ordered my 370's. Yea!!! As soon as they get here I want to put them in, so I have a few questions. How hard is it to do? I'm a mechanic so it doesn't look that hard, I just wanted to see if anyone had any horror stories so I won't do the wrong thing. Also, How tight do I tighten the injectors when I get them in there? I don't have a torque wrench. By the way, what size wrench does it take to get the injector out? Thanks guys. I can't wait!!!!!!!!!!

 

[RBratby]

the injector in stall is not all that bad. you torque the injectors in to 44ftlbs. i dont remember the wrench size. 370's are awsome you will like the added power.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

3/4"... . Why not just get Chris to do it and check everything out on your motor and set it up, plate, springs, afc ect then all you have to do is drive it.



Jim

 

[EGaskamp]

I would get chris to do it but I live about 4 hours from his shop and don't have time to drive down there. Plus it will be good experiance for me. Then I can do it for others who don't want to. Thanks guys. BTW, I still haven't got this quarters TDR mag. Have y'all?

 

[Kernel]

When you put the nut on the injector be sure that the brass washer you use on the injector is not too thin. If it is, the injector nut will come in contact with the top of the injector well and it will not tighten enough to the proper torque specs. Other than that it is pretty simple. It's a hassle to take all the injector lines off because of all the stuff that has to come off with them, but some people have done without removing the lines. I didn't want to bend them that much so I took everything off. Hope all works out well.



Scott

 

[dpuckett]

Not sure about the injector line nuts- they are different from 1st to 2nd Gen- but the injector retaining nut (body into head) is 24mm.



You can move the lines over to get them out of the way, but dont move them enough that they dont flex back into place. I would suggest loosening the little line retaining clamps on the lines to allow the lines to flex farther back from the injector body, thus lessening the chance of bending the line.



Cant help you with the washers. I do know that the wrong washers will make for rough idle and smoke.



Daniel

 

[Howard Durand]

You'll need a puller to get the old ones out and don't forget to disconnect the by-pass line.

 

[SWendell]

I put my 1st set in Sunday... pretty easy, but next time I'll do it on a cool engine! I used a 19mm crow foot/ratchet and a deep well 24 mm. Be careful and avoid getting any debris in the top of the injector before you connect the lines. I noticed some paint chips from the injector lines had fallen into the orifice on top and that may be giving me the roughness at low throttle? A

Anyone know how to take apart the injector and clean it out??



A dually lug nut screws on perfect to the top of the injector to pull it.

 

[dpuckett]

Cleanliness is of UTMOST importance.....

Getting a paint chip into the injector can cause all kinds of grief, rough idle and poor light throttle performance the least of your worries. Keep in mind the clearances necessary for the 17Kpsi pressure the P7100 is capable of, and you can see how something as large as a paint chip can wreak havoc on everything if pieces got into the return line. I'd get the injectors cleaned out professionally, or at least the one that got the chip. You may need a new tip, may not.



I always clamp my tops with a Vice Grip after a liberal soaking with PB Blaster. With some gentle tugging, they slide right out. Might ought to make me a puller, though.



-DP

 

[Rhondasway]

I'd go the the "extra trouble" and remove your air horn and both sets of fuel lines. It's no big deal, all you need is 10mm wrench, 10mm socket, a 13mm (I think) for the fitting on the fuel filter, 3/4 open-end, and 11 mm deep for boost clamp. Make sure your little double copper washers from the return line are in good shape before re-installing (new ones are a good idea).

I run the thin washers with my 370's, with no problems; make sure they're firmly on the injector/ flat in the bottom of the hole (an itty-bitty dab of anti-seize will make 'em stick to the injector).

Don't forget anti-seize on the threads of the retaining nuts (not too much), as the heat can really bake them in there.

When you're ready to start it, prime your pump about 100 times (no, I'm not kidding). Less cranking, faster starting... I suggest a priming stick (especially if you're short like me)

Enjoy!