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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Injector install kit.

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) mirrors

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Nv4500....Popping out of third

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I just purchased a set of 370's and am curious which of the copper washers are to be used in the 94. There are three different thicknesses, 1. 5mm, 2. 5mm and some real thin ones.
 
Howard: Are these bosch marine 370's or someone elses? Do you have a stock head gasket or the thicker copper marine one? Its all about spray angle and moving the injector up or down to get the best angle in the cup for the 370. They're spray angle is not designed for the "Dodge cummins" head but the marine head under heavy torque requirements from a deep pitch screw for things like shrimp boats and tugs. Thin washers, thin head gasket obvously the spray pattern will be deeper into the cup. The "hit" in the cup will determine the amount of atomization of the fuel under high injector pressure and the efficiency of burn. If you see a lot of black smoke, you got it wrong and are contributing to "cylinder washdown" from excessive unburned fuel which isn't good over time for the pistons or the carboned up injector nozzles. Add some Stanadyne Jr to your fuel too. Increase the Cetane level.
For a stock head gasket and bosch marine 370's KYOUNG is spot on, use the thinnest ones.
If you have the copper marine headgasket use the middle ones.
Throw the thick ones away unless you have a tugboat.
If these are special cut 370's better ask the people you got them from.
On another note if these are "Bosch Marine 370's" have them individually "pop" tested before you install them and the internal springs adjusted (shimmed) for an equal as possible and consistant popping pressure..... You'd really be surprised at the differences between off the shelf stock injectors that come in the same box. You'd expect them to be better than that. Also 370 springs will "age". After about 10,000 miles have them pop tested again and tuned. After that you won't need to do it again.
Youre idle will be smooth and your response when you hit the go peddle will be remarkable.....
I'm happy with mine... .
 
They were purchased new for $400 as a matched set by the original owner. He used them for about 5K miles then went to DD4s.

I don't know who made them. They have a circle with a box inside the circle followed by "BRAZIL & KDAL 59P1468526" stamped on the barrel.

Below that is"260 bar" plus "908" in an oval.

Number 7596 at the top.

Maybe this will tell you something about them.
 
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Howard, put them in with the . 020 or . 5 mm washers, bump your timing to 17 and don't worry about it, you'll be fine. The extra timing will help you burn a little more fuel.



Jim
 
Thanks to all for the info. I am going to try the 0. 022" washers. This will be a combined project of installing the 370's and removing the Banks Twin Ram air intake. That thing is a PITA. It is always in the way and I can't see that it does a bit of good.



Howard
 
I may just chuck the whole thing and get me one of them there TUNDRA's. Why, I saw on TV where one of them outrun a car dropped from a helicopter and was still able to stop before it fell into a canyon.

Now, what more could anyone want?
 
Sounds like PKEMP is the guy to talk to about 370's. I have a question about installing 370's. I have never installed injectors before. Is this something semi mechanical people can do. Do I need any special tools? It sounds like alot of people do replace injectors with ease. Also where would you recomend buying a set of 370's. I'm in ca. bay area.

I havent put my truck profile up yet but... . 1997 4x4 12v, fuel plate, quick turbo, cone filter, auto trans lock up, guages, pin killed, 4" pipe turbo back, 135,00 miles.
 
my engine came out of a '94 Ford School Bus any body have any guesses on the piston cup or head gasket i am just putting the 370s in now and the injectors i pulled out had thick washers? 2mm. maby ill start with 2mm and see if she smokes and work my way down. Any help would be apprecieated... didn't mean to hyjack this thread just figured it went along.
Jaret
 
td343



Yes, PKemp appears to be very well versed on these engines as well as Jim Fulmer. I don't think either one will lead you astray.



As far as replacing the injectors is concerned. That is really not a bad job. You will need just a few good metric tools, a torque wrench and a puller to remove the injectors being replaced.

There are several innovative designs for pullers that have been developed by some of the members. Mine is made from an assembly of various galvanized pipe fittings and a 3/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT brass reducer.



I screwed the brass reducer into a 3/8" galvanized coupling.

A 3/8" galvanized nipple, 6" long, is screwed into the other end of the coupling.

I bought a 1" galvanized coupling and two 1" to 3/8" reducers. The reducers and coupling are assembled and the holes in the reducers are reamed out until the 6" nipple will slide through the holes. Put a 3/8 cap on the other end of the 6" nipple and you have a slide hammer.

The 1/4" NPT end of the brass reducer will fit the injectors perfectly.
 
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