Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Injector install problem.

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front brake pads

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Cam plate grinds

Status
Not open for further replies.
Ynot,



Sounds like good info. I had not tried removing and cleaning the connector tube. When you say remove the line, I guess you mean just from the head and not completely from the motor. Chuck the injector end of the tube in the drill and clean the line end with the Scotch Brite, correct? What is the importance of the 'red' Scrotch Brite, green won't work? Do you put new o-rings on the connector tubes? Do you do anything to the injector lines?
 
Last edited:
Morning rluft. Actually, it's the other end that leaks. The o-ring is just a dust seal (hence the "re-use" scenario). Grease them and throw them back on. The o-rings won't hold the thousands of pounds of line pressure on it's best day. Just keeps dirt out so the adapter won't rust and seize in the head. The nut end of the line rarely leaks, as it is so soft, but it can be Scotch Brited clean with no problem, if there's a burr or whatever. Green would work, but it's a little aggressive for this stuff. The receiver end of the tube is pretty "bullet proof". Never seen one leak there. If it did, you could theoretically just torque the &$%@ out of it and it would crush seat to any deformations in the seat itself. No biggy. You can leave the lines on if the aren't in the way, just be sure you can visually 360* the line to check for burrs. Good luck... T
 
Ynot,



I guess I have missed the point of where the leak is occurring. Steve's comments earlier make more sense now.



I don't have a drill chuck large enough to hold the small end of the connector tube, forget about the big end. The purpose of this is to polish the injector end of the tube, right? I suppose I could do it by hand, course it will take more than 4-6 seconds, and require a steady hand.



On assembly I will tighten the line nut before final torqueing the injector hold down bolt. That would explain why #5 started leaking when I removed the line.



Thanks to all for the help. I'll keep you posted.
 
Well,



I did my injectors today, and because of the problems discussed here, went very slowly, carefully, check torque, tightened a little here, then tightened a little there, pulled the head tube out about 1/2" before lossening the injector to be sure the mating surface did not lose any integrity, lossened all the injector hold downs, all the injector line bracing clamps, slowly put it all back together.



Primed it twice, cranked it up, yep was rough till it got the air out, took about 30 seconds, checked for leaks (and will continue to do so for a couple of days, also in the oil levels) and it all worked. A lot of the extreme care was due to this thread, thanks for all the good ideas and info.



The only thing that was out of the ordinary was I tore the intake manifold gasket and had to scrape and replace that. I took the shop vac and a hose nozzle and vaccumed right where I was scraping, had plugged the intake with a rag. Went pretty well, but you might have an intake gasket available when you do your injectors.



Took about 5 hours end to end, but I get pretty anal about measuring twice, checking again, torque a little here, torque a little there, you get the picture.



Thanks again for all the good info,



Bob Weis
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top