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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Injector install question

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A guy I know installed his own injectors yesterday because he was in a rush to get it done. While doing the change he did not pull back the tubes that mate into the injectors. I know he probably damaged the tubes. He is driving his truck and it seems to run fine. Can anyone tell me if there is fuel leaking someplace, is he getting the proper amount of fuel to the injectors or what other issues has he created by being stupid and not adhereing to the correct install procedures??? Any input would be appreciated.

Mike L.
 
Well I am assuming that if he got the old injectors out that he had the injection lines loose enought to let the cross over tubes to pop out. He is probably okay, not the prefered method of course.





JR2
 
Get an oil analysis done at the next oil change. That will tell him if fuel is getting into the oil. If no fuel is in the oil I don't think I'd worry about it.



Mike
 
How in the world did he get the injectors out

The injectors may not seat on the copper washers and combustion gases may blow into the return line. He needs to pull them back out and make sure he's not trashing his engine. Merv
 
Injector Install

Ive the injector install procedure and it is not real clear yet to me as to how the injection line seats on these injectors, I have one of the new injectors in my hand now and will see first hand as to how this works this week end, ive installed a lot of injectors just not cummins , the way it looks is that the cross over tube seats on the injector as you tighen the line that don't seem it would hold so good the pic don't show a good shot fo how the tube fit's. Has anyone a better shot ? Harv
 
I dont have a picture but...

The injector hold down holds the injector at a very precise angle. The fuel hole in the side of the injector is lined up "perfectly" with the bore of the fuel tube that comes thru the head. The copper washer, which is of critical thickness, holds the injector at the proper elevation up and down.



The fuel tube slides into the bore in the head and is sealed with some o-rings more or less. The orings are on the outside of the fuel tube and basically keep it centered, tight and prevent oil or blowby from seeping through the threads of the large 19mm nut. The orings dont do anything to seal the diesel which goes through the inside of the fuel tube. The injector end of the fuel tube is cut or formed to fit into the "hole" in the side of the injector. Then the external line attaches to the head with the 19mm nut over the flared end of the external fuel line. That flared end of the line is also a compression fit to the fuel tube. As the 19mm nut is tightened... it seal both ends of the fuel tube. One end is pressed against the injector itself and the other is pressed against the individual fuel line for each injector. The fit is kinda like AN automotive fittings. The proper torque of the 19mm nut is critical to provide sealing forces necessary for the high pressure. In essence the fuel tube is an extension of the fuel line that goes thru the head and has compression fittings on both ends.



At least thats how I figure it all works. Just my 2 cents on what I saw.
 
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I think the confusion here is pulling back the tubes is getting confused with pulling back the injection lines.



When I have done injectors (about 5 sets) I have removed the Nuts (19 mm I think) that hold the injection lines to the block and then taken some of the little 10mm bolts out that hold all the lines together. This way you can hold the injection lines back while removing the injector and tubes.



When you pull the injector out the cross over tube will have to pop out of the block a bit, maybe 1/4 inch max. It is not necessary to pull them all the way out (unless you have one of the 98. 5 trucks that needs new tubes), with that said there is nothing stopping you from pulling them out when you pull the injector and having a look at them.



If that was too confusing, I will put it this way. It would be darn near impossible to pull an injector out with out taking the injection line loose from the side of the block. It would require a very large slide hammer and you would know something was wrong because you would physically have to break the tip off each cross over tube to get the injector out. I really doubt a truck would run with even one tube with a broken tip.

On the other hand it is not required that you hold the lines back (after removing the nut), but it is somewhat helpful.





Hope that helps



JR2
 
I couldn't wait I installed them this afternoon, I see exactley how the line seal's. now it's clear. not a bad install at all the hardest part was #5 & #6 And that rear lifting eye man the bolt's were tight. Thank's for all the input, Harv
 
The bolts on the rear lifting eye are installed by the same gorilla that installs the oil filter. He is a big sucker and usees a cheater rod about 5' long on both... :D



After doing my first injector install I looked like I had been mauled by a bear... That bracket that holds the wire connectors over top of the valve cover is a real PITA.



JR2
 
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after I get my clutch in, 275 are my next adventure. I understand ther e is a special tool that is needed to pull the injectors out of the head. Is that the case??
 
bombero you use one of the short bolt's that hold your air intake & grid heater, and the injectors just pop right out no problem. I have a copy of the injector install if you would like i could send you a copy. Harv JR2 you are correct that guy must have used a long cheater,I broke a socket & the end off a exstention, finaly used a 1/2 breakover to bust them loose, i was doing some talking to that dude lol. Harv
 
Originally posted by HWhite

bombero you use one of the short bolt's that hold your air intake & grid heater, and the injectors just pop right out no problem. I have a copy of the injector install if you would like i could send you a copy. Harv JR2 you are correct that guy must have used a long cheater,I broke a socket & the end off a exstention, finaly used a 1/2 breakover to bust them loose, i was doing some talking to that dude lol. Harv







Actually, I just used the one of the bolts that hold the valve cover on. There was just enough lip on them to easily pry up on their head after screwing them in, and the injectors just popped out. Honestly, once the valve cover is out of the way, the rest of the install is a piece of cake. Oh any by the way, my lifting bracket came off with an air ratchet no problem. It was tight, but nothing a little yank couldn't take care of. I guess the gorilla wasn't on duty that day. ;)
 
Stubby wrench.......

I did my first set by the instructions. Worked great but seemed like a lot of extra work. On the second set I used a stubby 3/4 and did the rear lines with it. Never had to remove the lifting eye. I really don't think using a crows foot can be that accurate when torquing anyway. Snug em up and if they leak tighten them a little more. I'd still torque the injector hold downs though.



Garrett
 
Re: Stubby wrench.......

Originally posted by Big White Beast

I did my first set by the instructions. Worked great but seemed like a lot of extra work. On the second set I used a stubby 3/4 and did the rear lines with it. Never had to remove the lifting eye. I really don't think using a crows foot can be that accurate when torquing anyway. Snug em up and if they leak tighten them a little more. I'd still torque the injector hold downs though.



Garrett
I also used a stubby after I broke them loose, no joke even these injector lines were over tightend, I used a snapon line wrench to break them loose then the stubby to takem off. I did try to brake them loose before taking the lifting eye off. Harv
 
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