Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Injector install.........

[SHobbs]

I have a set of 275's on the way and had a few of questions. My high pressure lines have been seeping at the head, would it be a good idea to replace the injector tubes when I do the injectors? Are they difficult to remove and replace? I have seen posts about injector installation instructions, could someone PM them to me please? Oh, anything special as far as tools that are needed?

 

[DLausche]

If I recall correctly, a 19mm crows foot wrench makes it easiest to remove the line to the #6 cylinder. The crossover tubes come out before the injectors come out of the head.



http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/pdf_files/DD-Injector-Install-Instructions.pdf



-Deon

 

[SHobbs]

Deon,



Where the high pressure lines connect to the tube at the head how in the world do you get the proper torque on them? I know you can use a crows foot wrench to remove them but gettin them back on is another thing. Thanks for the instructions.

 

[Jason Griebel]

I just tightened mine until they quit leaking.

 

[RSimmons]

The same crows foot on a 3/8 drive torque wrench worked for me. If I remember correctly, I had to reduce torque setting by 1. 5 foot pounds due to the additional leverage of the foot.

 

[DLausche]

I didn't torque mine either. I just tightened them about mid-tight - enough so they don't leak. You will need a helper to crack one or two of the lines open while cranking the engine to bleed the air out. Once you get it running, just tighten so the fuel isn't spraying out anymore.

 

[drag racer]

I just put my 275's in a couple months ago - was my first injector R&R. Here are a few observations/lessons learned:

1) I could get a torque wrench w/ crow's foot on all the lines but #6; tightened that one by feel.

2) Definitely remove the rear engine lift hook for better access to #5 and 6

3) if you really want to be precise with the torque using a crow's foot, you have to calculate the lever effect based on the actual crow's foot and torque wrench you are using. You have to make a couple of measurements and calculate the applied torque. It's not absolutely necessary as others have mentioned once you get a feel for it.

4) Snap-On makes a custom injector puller with slide hammer which works like a charm on cylinders #1-4, a special low profile injector puller which works awesome for #5 and 6 (the slide hammer won't fit), and a custom transfer tube puller for our engines which made the job very easy and low-risk of damage caused by improvising with other tools. I highly recommend them, and look at it like an investment, esepcially if you foresee messing with injectors in the future.

5) I highly recommend pulling all the transfer tubes out, cleaning them, and putting new o-rings on. They are cheap and available from Cummins in a 10-pack for a couple bucks.

6) When bleeding prior to re-start, leave #3 and 4 fuel lines loose (hand tight, and then back off a little). Put a shop towel underneath the lines to catch fuel drippage. Cycle the lift pump several times, and then crank the engine several times, checking the shop towel to see when fuel is present. When you see fuel, tighten them up and the engine should start. I made the mistake of continuing to crank the engine after I had seepage and it still wouldn't start. As soon as I tightened those two lines up, it started right up. The whole job can be done by yourself.

7) Definitely consider checking/adjusting the valves while you have the valve cover off, whether you think it needs it or not; mine were all in spec, but a little on the loose side. Readjusted them towards the tight side, and made a noticeable improvement in power

Good Luck - it's not too hard of a job, and once you do it once, then next time will be much quicker.

 

[JR2]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...135129-24v-injector-install-instructions.html

 

[SHobbs]

The big brown truck brought me a present today will do the install tomorrow. Picked up some new tubes so they are going in also. I was looking at the injectors and can't believe how small the holes are, you can barely see them.



Just curious how difficult it is to line up the hole on the injector with the tube.

 

[drag racer]

The retainers align with the slots on the top of the injector bodies to provide proper orientation. Just make sure the hole in the body faces towards the tubes and you will be good to go. The only mistake that could be made is to have it 180° off.

 

[SHobbs]

I have been looking at how the tube fits against the injector body. Amazing that fuel does not squirt everywhere when the engine is running.

 

[Bob Cochran]

I just put in my RV275's last Monday. Not as hard as expected. I did not use torque wrench on #5 & 6 especially #6 even with 3/8 torque wrench and crows foot could not get on it. It does not appear to be leaking any place but will have get a inspection mirror for #6. Oh I did not bleed the injector lines. Just tightened, did the key on with out start about 3 times. Held half throttle and tried it fired but ran really bad but cleared and settled in ok. I checked valve lash and after 130,000 miles was in speck I tightened on intake just because!!!

 

[SHobbs]

Ok riddle me this. I installed the injectors, started the engine and had a dead miss. Checked all lines and fittings all were fine. Pulled the injectors and found one was as clean as it was before the install. Called vendor and a replacement was sent. Installed again and the same thing happened, the replacement was clean as a whistle. All the other injectors were stained black around the tips.



Has anyone else had this happen before? What are the odds on this happening twice? Being that the injector is clean and the rest are stained black am I wrong in thinking that it's not firing? I reinstalled the factory originals and all is fine and runs like a top. I am stumped and so is the vendor.



This is what the injectors look like right out of the engine.

 

[SHobbs]

No help? Anyone

 

[HOT0124valve]

Ok riddle me this. I installed the injectors, started the engine and had a dead miss. Checked all lines and fittings all were fine. Pulled the injectors and found one was as clean as it was before the install. Called vendor and a replacement was sent. Installed again and the same thing happened, the replacement was clean as a whistle. All the other injectors were stained black around the tips.



Has anyone else had this happen before? What are the odds on this happening twice? Being that the injector is clean and the rest are stained black am I wrong in thinking that it's not firing? I reinstalled the factory originals and all is fine and runs like a top. I am stumped and so is the vendor.



This is what the injectors look like right out of the engine.

you have a bad line or your vp is dead also to rule out the transfer tube swap with one of the other tubes from 6 or 2 they look good on burn.

i have seen this done but rare if you loosen the injector lines off the head but are too lazy to pull them from the pump inside the line's is a thin film of rust and junk that is from fuel ect. and is non movement but if you do the old pull the line out of the way trick it can disturb the junk and brake it loose in turn it can block transfer tubes and plug injectors.



i would have to said the first injector was set to tight but two in a row the odds are slim but never say never. your vp might be low on psi and cant pop the injector. do you no any one that has a modis or some computer that you can kill cyl's to see if pump psi will jump up and pop the injector on that hole.





one last thought if the old set of injectors worked in the truck put you new injectors back in the same spot with the same tube crack only the bad injector line to see if fuel sprays no fuel dead vp, fuel you have 50/50 on tube or injector

then its about pop psi after that.

any codes?

 

[SHobbs]

No codes at all. I started out with the clean injector in cylinder #3. I then moved it to #1 with no luck. Tried it in #4 as well again no luck. When I pulled the injector fuel was present at the high pressure line and in fact with the enigne running it was leaking a bit till I tightened it up a little. I can understand what you say about just pulling the lines back loosening gunk and all but wouldn't that also cause the orginals to run bad as well? Once the originals are back in everything is smooth and strong. Thats the odd part of this, the originals run great and the new ones don't. I have one more coming Monday guess I will see what happens.