Injector Installation

[Morphious]

I was window shopping in a snap on catalogue yesterday and saw in the Diesel section that they had an Injector puller, just wondering if this tool is necessary to change the injectors or if there is another way to do it. Going to have a busy weekend with upgrades: Clutch, Exhaust, Injectors, Gauges, and Power Box. Just trying to make sure that I have all the tools located before hand. I know that I need a 19mm Crows foot for the injector tubes, anything else?

Thanks.

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99 2500 4x4 QC Std transmission, Purple, 10 Disc Sony Changer, 285x75Rx16 BFG Mudders, Gooseneck hitch, 275lb King Klaw front bumper, Towing/Camper setup.

DDIII's, Exhaust, TTPM, Clutch, Guages are now on order.

1965 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup, 350-350hp/2spd powerglide, PS, PB, Disc Brakes on the front, Tilt, Fuel Cell, 3. 73 posi.

26ft Gooseneck Flatbed Trailer.

1960 Farmal 340 Diesel Tractor

 

[CCahill]

Morphius,
Do a search on injector install. . I think it was arcticat that did a post on the install... way informative. . follow it to the letter and you won't have a problem. . in fact I anticipated the rear one to be a %$^&, but it was easy... Don,t need no stinkin crows feet, I bought some also, takin'em back. . havn't needed'em for 35 years, don't need'em now... . #ad


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2001 Quad,4x4,4. 10LS,LB,Loaded,stock,... . 65 Chevelle sedan, Hella nice driver, 53 Nash Rambler Convt,1 of 653 built,[not a Metro], GM drivetrain, injection, and auto/od
Specialized FSR PRO Stumpjumper Cannondale F2000, Loaded
MTD Lawn tractor with flames
12' fishin' boat, loaded. .

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

You don't need the injector puller. You can use one of the bolts that hold the intake horn to the manifold no problem - just screw it into the injector and use a screwdriver to lever against one of the rocker arms, they pop out pretty easily. As to the crow's feet they are much more important if you have to change out the connector tubes (early 98. 5's - there's a TSB about it). I wouldn't have been able to complete my injector change without them IMO. My one recommendation would be to start at the front of the engine and work back - by the time you get to #6 you'll have it down pat.

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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, custom ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)

[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 02-25-2001). ]

 

[LSMITH]

I did a set of injectors for a guy the other day. I had crows foot wrenches and did not use them. I also used a valve cover bolt to pull the injectors. It is long enough to get a good grip on them and pull them out by hand. 5 and 6 I had to use a screwdriver for leverage. Be aware that #6 injector line nut is a serious PIA to get to and to get tight. Also I would recommend tightening the injector line nuts about twice as hard as you think they need. Two of them leaked until I cranked them down. It really is not hard to change injectors, I had never done them and it took me less than two hours to do.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member

 

[Arcticat]

I don't think I was the one who posted instructions. I seem to remember Vaughn McKenzie posting some real good step by step instructions. I used a combination of the DD instructions that i downloaded from their website, and the instructions in the service manual. I can give you this tip though - spend the few bucks and get a 19mm crowsfoot. No, you do not need it to physically do the job. A regular open end wrench fits the fuel line nuts just fine. What the crowsfoot allows you to do is use a torque wrench to tighten said fuel line nuts to the specified torque. Some guys seem to think this is unnecesary, but the service manual is very clear in saying that the torque spec is "critical" - too little and you may have leaks, too much and you can damage the metal to metal joint between the injector tube and the injector. This is just a metal to metal joint, which relys only on a precise fit to hold back 3 or 4000psi of fuel pressure. The snugness of the joint is determined by the torque you put on those line nuts. Better safe than sorry IMHO

 

[Vaman]

Just did an injector change... bent needle nose pliers worked great not only for injector extraction but also insertion. All in all, it's a pretty easy job. Make sure you have an inch pound torque wrench.

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98. 5 2500, 24v, QC, 4x4, 4. 10 LSD, short bed, tow package, camper suspension, Westin nerfs, camper shell, TST PowerMax3, 275 RVs, EGT/Boost pillar gauges... Love my Cummins, no love for Dodge

 

[DavidD]

I am considering an injector upgrade. Any suggestions on which brands and what they cost. I currently have a BD plug-in-power modual. Thanks Dave
ps where do I find them?

98. 24V 5sp,QC,SWB,BD-exhaust,BD brake,BD plug-in-power,Rancho 9's level kit,315's on ultra alloys.

 

[David_VT]

I recall my DDI's were a good match for the VA (or whatever name your's goes by).

Goes without saying that you need to really be honest with yourself as to how far you want to go. It is a bummer to have to pull out injectors as you find yourself wanting more power.....

Now that my new clutch is almost in, I'll be selling my DDI's to move up to 'PSYCO' injectors before the middle of the year... .

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99' SB 4x4 : DDI's, HOT PE, SACHS Clutch(here 2/19 but still in the box),SPA dual gauge, ESPAR, Line-X OTR, Ladder bars, AMSOIL, etc (GPS,Cell,CB,... . )
Green Monster

 

[Evan A. Beck]

No crows' feet needed... Here's what you'll need:

19mm wrench (for high-pressure lines)
13mm socket (for APPS assembly)
10mm socket (for intake plenum)
8mm socket (for high-pressure line separators and injector retainers)
In-Lb torque wrench (for injector retainers)

A connector tube puller makes the job a lot easier too. No injector puller is needed, just put an valve cover bolt in the top of the injector and yank 'em out. I have done many injector installations, and once you do your first set, you'll be amazed at how easy it is. Be sure to torque the retainers to 89 in-lb. Typically takes me about 90 mins to do a set. First time took 2. 5 hrs.

Be sure to leave high pressure lines to cyls 1,3, and 4 loose to allow bleeding before starting. Just give the lift pump a half dozen or so 30-second cycles and you will begin to see some fuel at the high-pressure lines. Tighten the line, then crank the engine. Should take a couple tries. That's all there is to it! #ad