Injector Pump

[racokley]

The local dealer is telling me that I need a new injector pump, cause it has a "rough spot" when depressing the accelerator... local injector shop says they really doubt it, the Boesh pump usually goes 500,000 miles without problems (102,000 on mine) - My cruise control quit working (light comes on, but nobody home) some time ago... I had the (recalled) throttle cable replaced today and they checked out the cruise control and said it appears to all be working, but the vacuum diaphragm cannot overcome the rough spot in the pump... It does feel like it has a lot of resistance until about halfway through the stroke... Anyone out there have any similar problems or success with fixing it? (no other problems - will live without CC before spending $1000+ on a pump that otherwise works just fine) - Computer shows "automatic shutdown relay" code, but I have switched out the relays with no difference... Any help would be appreciated! - Rick

 

[Strick-9]

Turn the key on and pull the shutoff solenoid up until it fully engages. Now rotate the throttle on the pump. Does it still have as much resistance as when the key is off?



-Chris

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Rick,



If it turns out that you do need a pump, I got a spare one for cheap. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

 

[pwknapp]

Don't know how many miles you have on you truck but my pivot assembly at the front of the linkage was binding quite a bit. Took off throttle linkage and cruise cable and found serious wear at the pivot point. Went to stealer for replacement and was quoted 604 plus tax. I woulda laughed harder but my side was already hurtin from hitting the counter when going down. :--) Went back to my buddy with a small lathe and welded up the pivot rod and made some new bushings out of brass. Charged me 50 and now its smooooth. JM. 02

 

[racokley]

Chris- soory it took so long to get back to you, busy weekend and all... I did the shut-off solenoid thing and no difference. All the resistance seems to be at the very beginning of the movement, then it seems smooth... Rick

 

[Strick-9]

I would suspect linkage bind like pwknapp suggested next.



Pop off the linkage back by the pump itself and see if the throttle is still hard to rotate.



The shutoff solenoid forces the rack backward to fuel less than idle. So with the shutoff solenoid down, the throttle should be noticeably harder to rotate. Just keep that in mind when trying to diagnose this.



-Chris

 

[racokley]

Chris- I'll give it a try, but may be a few days before I get the chance... Thanks for the help! check back in a few and I'll let you know what happened! - Rick

 

[Deezul1]

Is this problem with the engine off or running. It will always be stiff at the pedal with the engine off.

 

[Missouri Mule]

racokley,

Just for the heck, check out your engine speed sensor and its connector ( usually connector is dirty inside or loose/bent pin).



The connector is in front/top of engine behind wiring harness.



Two problems you mentioned are associated with engine speed sensor ( cruise and asd relay).

But bad sensor/connection/connector/broken wire (most of time connector/connection) can cause engine stalling and I believe rough idle/runnining of engine.





ASD relay (automatic shut down relay) is turned on by speed sensor or its relay . Usually if asd is not working your charge light will come on because the asd relay sends voltage current readings to the computer ( actually there is a smaller computer inside the computer that determines if alternators need to charge batteries, sorry forgot the name of it).



But in letters to tdr when trucks were stalling out no mention of charge light comin on.