Injector Recommendations

[DNewell]

Alright everyone, I'm trying to do some learning here. I've got a 33' 5th wheel trailer that, when fully grossed out, weighs around 13500. Normally, it will be running at about 12500. As you can see from my truck info, it's basically stock except for the BHAF and Van Aaken box. I've got a straight pipe exhaust, but that shouldn't really affect what I'm looking to do.

Here's what I'm looking for info on: By leaving my turbo stock, and all other factors involved, what would you all recommend for size and manufacturer for aftermarket injectors? My friend is really into Diesel Dynamic injectors, but they seem awful expensive...

In stock form, I've pulled some good sized grades, and the max my EGT's have gotten have been about 1k with my probe in the cast iron downturn sleeve post turbo.

Any information is really going to help in that I just don't know a lot about injectors and such. I do understand that the bigger the injector, with a stock turbo, the hotter the motor is going to run because of the additional fuel. Any info will be of immense value. Thank you!

 

[johncameron]

If you are seeing 1000F post turbo you are already pushing the limits of meltdown How much boost are you running?



John







[In stock form, I've pulled some good sized grades, and the max my EGT's have gotten have been about 1k with my probe in the cast iron downturn sleeve post turbo.

[/QUOTE]

 

[DNewell]

Not too sure on the boost, I don't have a boost gauge. Sounds like I should be getting one. I've got a buddy that has regularly run 1200-1300 on the EGT's, but this was in the exhaust manifold. I've heard a good rule of thumb is add 100 for post turbo location. Heck, even towing a tiny tent trailer that weighed about 2600 grossed out, I could still see 900+ if I was keeping the RPM's low up a grade.

 

[RMalone]

No way dude!! If you want to tow with aftermarket sticks you NEED a turbo upgrade. Also get the egt probe into the exhaust manifold the numbers you get wil be far more meaningful. Until you do the trans, lift pump and turbo you are just about maxed out on useable towing power.

 

[Beast2B]

stock hx35 should be good up to the low 30's for boost before you start getting too much hot air out of it. if you don't have a boost elbow in the wastegate line, you're still at the stock setting which may allow up to 23-24 lbs of boost with your box.

I love my F1 diesel injectors, but Dynomite has some sticks I would use. Stay in the ~60hp range for injectors. Be prepared to drive by the EGT when towing heavy unless you change the turbo.

 

[johncameron]

Add 300F on a stock truck. As soon as you mod the truck the spread increases and with your box I'd add at least 400F. Move your EGT probe pre just to be safe.



John

Not too sure on the boost, I don't have a boost gauge. Sounds like I should be getting one. I've got a buddy that has regularly run 1200-1300 on the EGT's, but this was in the exhaust manifold. I've heard a good rule of thumb is add 100 for post turbo location. Heck, even towing a tiny tent trailer that weighed about 2600 grossed out, I could still see 900+ if I was keeping the RPM's low up a grade.

 

[kelly4463]

Get your self a turbo first then some don m injectors :-laf

Give doug smith AKA (JETPILOT) a call for injectors and turbos he has a group buy right now on turbos he is a great guy to deal with he will answer any questions you have !!!!717-557-7060 Performance Diesel Warehouse



kelly.....

 

[AFarmer]

Mach 1. 6's and get an adjustable boost elbow and crank it shut and you'll really like to tow with that setup. A really low cost upgrade might be something like a RV275. You should be fine as long as you get that 35 to build around 35-38lbs of boost - it'll keep it down.

 

[DNewell]

Mach 1. 6's and get an adjustable boost elbow and crank it shut and you'll really like to tow with that setup. A really low cost upgrade might be something like a RV275. You should be fine as long as you get that 35 to build around 35-38lbs of boost - it'll keep it down.

I'm sorry, I'm not familiar witht he term RV275. I hate to sound ignorant, but I've never run across this terminology. If you could, please enlighten me on this.



Also, for others out there, just to compare EGT's. If you have your probe pre-turbo, what kind of temps are you running: unloaded on level ground, unloaded on grades of ~4-6%, loaded(minimum GCWR of 15k#) on level ground, and loaded(again, minimum GCWR of 15k#) on grades of ~4-6%. I'd be interested in finding out where everyone is at.

 

[BTowler]

RV275's are a Bosch injector used in the RV and Bus applications with the Cummins 5. 9, it is supposed to be equivalent to a 60 horse injector. They work pretty good, I have a set on mine and have been real happy, but I need more , so Jammer 3 tips are going in soon.

 

[DNewell]

Thank you, BTowler. I kind of was thinking it was something to do with RV's and such, but can never be too sure. I'm thinking the next upgrade is a boost gauge in a separate pod. Either that, or I'm going to get a triple gauge A-pillar pod as I've only got a dual one right now. This way, I can see what kind of boost pressures I'm running, and it sounds that if I am at or near 30psi, I can upgrade to slightly bigger sticks. All in all, I'm not looking for huge power gains. My truck will currently tow my trailer relatively well, but a little extra HP means better fuel economy as the motor isn't working as hard to tow the trailer... My biggest concern is actually slowing down when my GCWR is at or near 20k.

 

[DNewell]

I think that you all have convinced me that I do need to go pre-turbo on my TP(temp probe). I had a buddy that just had his probe break off the threads that were cut into the manifold, and he had to just plug up the hole. to me, not knowing the right temperature could be costly. When I'm grossed out at 20k#+, I really need to be careful. Thank you all!

 

[Devan Manis]

definatly go pre turbo, when i moved ours on our 01 dually we could hit 1500 deg where as when it was post turbo never got over 1000 deg.

 

[Turbo Thom]

The 275's will be the best change you can make. There is some work on the exhaust side of the turbo, that will help with the temps, but a larger, street turbo is the ticket. I believe the HTTurbo, 62/12 is what you will need.



I tow 15,000 and have the HX35 with a 14 exhaust housing. When I was running the 370's, my foot was my modulator, but most times I was around 1100 on the exhaust. Just remember, if you tow a fiver, watch the smoke. It is hard to come off a white fiver.



. . Preston. .

 

[DNewell]

I tow 15,000 and have the HX35 with a 14 exhaust housing. When I was running the 370's, my foot was my modulator, but most times I was around 1100 on the exhaust. Just remember, if you tow a fiver, watch the smoke. It is hard to come off a white fiver.



. . Preston. .

Great. I guess I should get a downturned exhaust tip then, cause my 5er is nice and shiny white...



Now that I'm thinking about it everyone, if I go to upgrade the turbo, won't I have to run bigger sticks when I do? From what I'm reading, and actually learning a little from, if you run a bigger turbo, this will cause the motor to basically run in a lean state because the fueling doesn't increase in proportion to the amount of air coming in, right? Since I'm running an aftermarket chip, this is helping to give her more juice, but can't you injure the motor from running too much boost with too little fuel?

 

[Devan Manis]

no... and some stall words because there is a minimum character allowment.

 

[DNewell]

Thanks Devan, I was curious about your post last night when I read it, but now that I'm fully 100% awake, I understand it. Funny.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Definitely move the egt probe to pre-turbo (in the exhaust manifold just before the turbo flange). The old rule of thumb is ten degrees per pound of boost difference. That means at 20 psi, the difference is 200 degrees, with pre turbo or engine exhaust temperature being that much hotter than post-turbo exhaust. However, at higher boost figures and with heavily fueled engines, the difference can be much greater than ten degrees per pound of boost.



The Bosch RV injectors give a 5 speed 24-valve engine about 33 horsepower, the HO engine 42 hp, and the automatic-transmission engines about 45-50 hp, all at the wheels.



You will probably find that you need a bigger turbo to control egt’s if you use the power gains from the box and injectors.

 

[DNewell]

Yeah, that's what I'm figuring. I'm learning ways to control the boost pressure of the stock turbo, and have found a concensus that 30psi out of the stock turbo is acceptable. I think stock they are rated at about 23-24, but I can't remember. I can purchase an adjustable 1/8" NPT fitting that controls the amount of boost pressure going to the wastegate. My brother told me that on long haul trucks, they will block this off completely to get more boost, thus allowing higher fueling levels. I've found that on our trucks, to do this would be suicide for the stock turbos. But, up to about 30psi is fine, and would allow higher fueling levels. This would help to control the EGTs, but keeping the fueling levels that I have now, wouldn't give me any additional HP. As I'm not looking for additional HP, and strictly to keep the EGT's in check, this will help in my ultimate goal.

 

[BTowler]

I was pushing 35psi on a stock HX35 but I only did that for a couple of months before changing my turbo so I can't say how long it would have lasted that way, but it didn't seem to have any problems with it.