Not sure what you can look to see on the dyno? At a guess given the info provided, I'd say somewhere between 325 - 370 ish? With the previous set up on my truck: Mach 1. 6 (85HP) + the Comp box (5-5 = 120HP) and the stock HX35 I ran 387 HP 760 TQ. So that was just about correct over the estimated stock 215 HP @ flywheel - 15-20% loss to the rear wheels = 180 ish + 205 (from comp and sticks) = 385. So I hit just about dead on what the parts were rated to deliver to the rear wheels. Let us know how you make out when you get done on the roller.
A bit of info on the BD sticks. I had my 1. 6s sold to help fund the 5s and was awaiting delivery of the 5s, a friend of mine let me use his BD 100s. Now they looked fairly clean and he only used them for maybe 10k miles, but after they were in my truck it idled rough, didn't have as quick throttle response and when WOT it definitely didn't have the same power as the 1. 6s. Now mine's an auto his is a stick, so he probably didn't notice the rough idle as much as I did. However, he realized something because the reason he had the BD sticks for me to use is: 1- he couldn't re-sell them and 2- he purchased Mach 4s to replace the BDs. Case closed as far as why to purchase Formula 1 sticks?
Oh by the way my buddy's truck with the set up as follows: 62/16 Non-gated turbo, studded head (pegs the boost gage 60+#), South Bend clutch, Drag Comp, Mach 4s he ran 497, it took water meth inj for him to brake into the 535 range. Now even though you and I have our trans done a stick will still put more to the pavement = less % HP from flywheel to ground loss.
Hope this helps in some way. And no I don't own stock in, or sell, Formula 1 injectors - wish I did :-laf