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Injured my foot driving my Ram

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coil spring specs

Anyone adjust afc wheel without installing torque plate?

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I hope this fits this forum. I tried it on another one not too long ago and got very little response. The clutch pedal is designed wrong, causes the toes to hit the bar and bend back when pushing in clutch. I have used cluthes in trucks and cars for over 35 years and this is the first one designed to protude in front of the pedal instead of behind it. This has caused an orthopedic problem that will not go away. Has there been any design change in the clutch pedal since 1998? Has anyone else encountered this problem?

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I have noticed the bar being in my way also. I have always had a vehicle with a manual tranmission and have never had a similar problem. I don't have any foot problems yet. It is mostly a nuisance or annoyance getting accustomed to it.

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99, 2500 QC, Laramie SLT, 5 spd, 3:54 LSD, Sprayed Liner, Nerf Bars, K&N Stock, PacBrake, EGT (Pre & Post Turbo) & Boost Gauge, PE, 275 injectors. Jardine 4" Exhaust.
 
I drive about 14,000 miles per year, lots of city driving. I did not notice until after driving it close to two years. My foot gradually started bothering me until it got to where It hurt bad to walk. After going to the doctor I realized the clutch had caused some swelling in the knuckles and ball of the foot. I now use different shoes and try to move my foot in different places, use my right foot a lot. My foot is better but I really wish I had an automatic now, even though I know it wont tow as good and probably would come apart a few times.
 
Would it be possible to pull the pedal or get one spare and take it to a welding shop and have it reconfigured. ????????????????
I did that with the shift lever on my psd and worked out fine.
Just a thought and cheaper than a new truck.

Jack
 
I have thought about doing that. The bar itself can not change however. If the bar is modified to keep the pedal alongside the brake pedal, the bar would hit the floor before the clutch is fully released. I would have to weld a 90 degree angle on to the bar and extend the pedal closer to me approximately 5 or 6 inches to allow a different part of my foot to depress it without the toes touching. There is insufficient room on either side to widen it and have room for my foot to clear either the brake pedal or emergency brake equipment. If I bring it forward I would have to move the seat back some to use the clutch, but that might be ok.
 
I noticed the same thing. I wear Wellington boots every day of the year and thought at first I had a big clump of mud on my boot. But it turns out that the pedal/arm is not designed very well for comfort. I have gotten used to it now and dont really seem to notice it very much. I still would not trade the 5 spd for an auto. Only owned 1 auto vehicle (K-5 Blazer) after three trannys , no more autos.
 
I never noticed B4 because I mostly use my toes and a little bit of foot on the pedal, too bad you cant slide your foot over to the left a little to miss that darn arm, thats a crazy way to make something

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat, 5"turn down tip
80gal fuel capacity. BD Brake, EGT,Boost + fuel pressure gauges. Member NRA/USPSA
 
I believe you can get pedal extensions that would get your foot up from the bar. These are normally used by very short people so they can reach the brake pedal. Companies that do van conversions for disabled people should be able to get something that would work. Disadvantage is that you will have to lift your foot higher to get it onto the pedal.

I worked with a woman some time ago who was about 4'3" and she had extensions on all the pedals in her car. Might work?

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Just got my 2001 2500 QC, SB, 4x4, ETH 6-sp, 3. 54 LSD, SLT++ (everything but those lights on top of the roof), White over Silver, Tan leather. Picked it up 8/31/00.
 
stopped by the dealer and spent a few min assesing the clutch pedal. Have you had a welder look at it?????

[This message has been edited by JNutter (edited 09-28-2000). ]
 
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