Input Requested: Keep 2012 or Get Newer?

[RUSSELL5000]

Good morning, all. Normally I just read because other on here know so much more. Looking for input today.

First, keep the truck or get something newer?

My 2012 has roughly 65K on the odometer. I have done regular maintenance items myself, all somewhat ahead of schedule. Truck is almost all stock, although I have added: (1) rear sway bar, (2) deep aluminum transmission pan (adds fluid capacity: the EVIC highest temperature, going up a 7% grade towing my travel trailer was 185), front and year differential covers (add fluid capacity), (4) front steering stabilizer, and (5) MOPAR severe duty fuel filter kit (this is basically the frame mounted fuel filter on 2013 and subsequent trucks - was not stock on a 2012). The truck has worked fine, never had any issue. The truck pulls the travel trailer 90% of the time (hence only 65K miles on a 2012).

Cons of keeping 2012: (1) has the previous emission system, not the DEF/SCR system, so more regenerations and worse fuel economy, (2) is a SRW 2500, so cannot pull a heavy trailer, and (3) purchased in 2013, so is now nine years old.

Pros of keeping 2012: (1) per TDR articles and research, emissions fuel economy penalty is not significant when truck is working hard, and 90% of use will continue to be pulling trailer, (2) expect that I will only be pulling a 10K - 12K trailer at most, and hopefully for a good number of years into the future, (3) truck has operated fine, makes me think if there were bugs then they would have appeared by now, (4), truck is paid for, (5) truck is paid for, (6) truck is paid for, .... and (999) truck is paid for.

It does not look to me like now is an ideal time to purchase a new truck; seems like the dealer is currently in the drivers seat.

So, welcome opinions on the keep or get something newer question.

Second, if keeping the truck, some update items:

(1) Think the brake system due for complete overhaul. Seems to me one thing in particular which warrants erring on the side of caution. New pads, calipers, rotors, flexible line, perhaps sensors, flush fluid, replace fluid, bleed.

(2) Replace batteries. Have always worked fine, but getting old.

(3) Replace front struts and rear shock absorbers.

(4) Set of new tires.

(5) Replace serpentine belt.

(6) Flush and replace coolant.

(7) Am going back and forth in mind on set of front locking hubs. If installing, should front drive shaft u-joints be replaced? Perhaps not, since would rarely turn. On the other hand, in there now.....

(8) Replace front ball joints - the aftermarket type which can be greased, etc.

Welcome opinions on this list as well.

Thanks, all.

 

[nukegm]

comrade. i would try to keep driving it until next year model year. perhaps the chip shortage will lessen. now is probably the worst time to buy a vehicle in decades ( high prices and low selection ) just my .02 cheers !

 

[lpennock]

It is a good time to sell but a terrible time to buy. If you do it, order one and sit on yours until the new one actually arrives then sell yours outright. You will get more money that way. See if you employer has any fleet deals you can use. My current employer has a deal to get deal invoice pricing. The dealer still makes money on this because of hold backs and the fact a ordered truck doesn't sit on their lot.

If you keep it I would do
(1) brake system. flush fluid
2) Replace batteries. Have always worked fine, but getting old. (Where I live Batteries only last 2 years so....)
(3) Replace front struts and rear shock absorbers. (actually it is shocks on both ends)
(4) Set of new tires. (Only if they are 6 years or older or below 5/32")
(5) Replace serpentine belt. (Would inspect first)
(6) Flush and replace coolant. (I think your current coolant is 5yr/100Kmiles so past due)

 

[GroundSquirrel]

I’m waiting on a new turbo for my 2016 and just passed 107k miles. As a soon as the warranty covers the repair, I’ll more than likely sell it as I’m shopping for an older truck right now. Too much money to keep the new diesels running after the warranty is up.

 

[AH64ID]

Another big benefit to the new trucks is the frame/suspension improvements. It will handle the weight better and ride better empty.

If you decide to buy then I would order one. Several dealers are sill able to get FWP (invoice) pricing on custom orders. Dennis Dillon in Caldwell, Idaho is one.

Being paid for is a huge benefit, but have you checked your trade-in value? You might be surprised.

comrade. i would try to keep driving it until next year model year. perhaps the chip shortage will lessen. now is probably the worst time to buy a vehicle in decades ( high prices and low selection ) just my .02 cheers !

While prices are high and selection is low the prices will not drop once the shortage ends, at least not enough to bother waiting for.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Throw on some 18's and bags.

 

[bcbender]

The simple answer is what I did when I sold my 04,... I took what I could get for it, added what I was going to have to spend to get it where it needs to be and then looked at the benefits of a new truck and the difference. In my case I was due for coolant exchange, all oils, tire, injectors, and maybe CP3?? So I figured i was going to be dumping about 6k into it.. added that to what book was, and I had more than I paid for it over a decade ago... so... I went with a new, more capable,.. and way more comfortable truck and didn't feel like I lost anything doing it.. (well my wallet was a tad lighter) but the difference for a 17y newer truck with a warranty wasn't that much...

 

[Turbo Terry]

It’s a hard decision to make. Looking back on my experiences I will try to share some of my current thoughts on this First and I knew this then but more now everything you do on a truck that not broken or regular maintenance is wasted money. Fancy wheels special tires diff covers etc you get the idea so keeping it stock and properly serviced and in good repair is the most important passed that it just things you may enjoy but it’s money gone. And to keep the warranty good.But back in 1999 my first Cummins had lift pump issues from the start the transmission wasn’t good. Weak no exhaust brake. Things I really needed and cost a lot of money. Now it comes almost perfect out of the box. I never used my warranty once ever back then. i kept my old truck way to long. I almost think the average driver should change outfits about every 10 years myself so my thinking its upgrade now order a new truck sell old truck later Let someone else do repairs on the old one. You will really like a new truck

 

[Wiredawg]

Do you like your 2012? All you describe is normal maintenance and wear items. 65K miles is low. Do you fo all your own wrenching or do you have work done? Are you looking to upgrade features in a new or newer truck?

I generally am doing an upgrade, more capacity and or more features. Is this a want or a need? Nothing at all wanting a new truck.

 

[CToney]

Your 2012 will be worth a decent $. The new truck if you order one will be exactly what you want but it will not be cheap. I tend to keep my trucks for a while and for many miles. Ordering one is by far better than trying to find one used.

 

[C M McCormick]

Keep it. When you start spending a truck payment per mouth to keep it on the road then time for newer or new one.

Craig

 

[Topzide]

I'm with the others, if you want a newer truck, get it! But if not, until that time comes that repairs start mounting and you're spending an average truck payment per month, then by all means, sell and find/order the truck you want/need! My '14 has around 160K and besides maintenance issues nothing else besides the "jewelry" that I keep adding and thinning the wallet!

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Appreciate all the thoughts. I caught a couple of questions in the above, so to clarify.

I do not see a need for any greater capability. I am researching now, but my purpose for the truck will be pulling a smaller length travel trailer that will easily fit into public lands campgrounds and boondocking locations (26, 28 foot maximum). I am retiring in February and the thing I most want to do is spend time hiking in various wilderness areas - for as long into the future as I am physically able. So, I love the truck, and it has easily done all I have asked in the past and can conceive of asking for the future. At some point that will change and I will need to do something else; cross that bridge when it gets here.

I do maintenance wrenching myself. I have not done some things, but things like brakes, shock replacements, etc. I am fine with. Also, great help here on the forum, which was highly appreciated when I did the required 67.5K "perform maintenance." I am unsure whether I would tackle something like adding the manual locking hubs or the serpentine belt replacement, primarily due to inexperience. At any rate, I would do most of the maintenance items I listed myself. Also, I am perfectly happy buying an additional tool to get a job done.

Finally, the truck will go to one of my sons when I am done with it. At least I think so. I have not asked lately, but I am sure one of them will want it and that has always been what I said I would do.

Thanks much - always appreciate the experience of others.

 

[Turbo Terry]

Then I think your mystery is solved keep the truck

 

[bcbender]

I think there may be a flash or update out there for the mileage... I know the 12 seems to be the most thirsty of all the ones I've had especially when just driving around... I rarely see better that 13~14 on the EVIC so I know its less than that hand calc. and my 20 gets at least 2 better in the same mode.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

An update here on keeping the truck.

First, I had a Retrax bed cover - high quality, very nice, worked very well. I have the 6' 4" bed, and the Retrax cover rolls up into a storage canister which sits in the bed at the front: you lose about a foot of that precious bed length (in hindsight, I wish I had gotten an 8' bed - as in all of life, my decisions are so much more effective in hindsight....) So, I purchased a Diamonback HD bed cover. So far very pleased with quality, capability, and service. I can now utilize all of the bed space.

Second, I installed an aftermarket rear sway bar when I bought the truck (Hellwig "Big Wig"). I noticed that the end link bushings had deteriorated. I was unsure how to get replacements, so I contacted the company to see whether I could purchase replacements (ten years old). The company sent not only the bushings, but all hardware, the "D" bushings, and two new end links - at not charge to whatsover. So, very pleased!

Before replacement:

After replacement:

Third, I replaced the batteries. I got ten years service out of the original (would no longer hold a charge). I went with the NAPA.

 

[Turbo Terry]

Very nice looking truck. I think you still like it and will keep it. For me it was my physical limitations to do maintenance and the reliability factor to travel some long trips. Also a bit heavier truck to haul camper better

 

[monovasia]

Good morning, all. Normally I just read because other on here know so much more. Looking for input today.

First, keep the truck or get something newer?

My 2012 has roughly 65K on the odometer. I have done regular maintenance items myself, all somewhat ahead of schedule. Truck is almost all stock, although I have added: (1) rear sway bar, (2) deep aluminum transmission pan (adds fluid capacity: the EVIC highest temperature, going up a 7% grade towing my travel trailer was 185), front and year differential covers (add fluid capacity), (4) front steering stabilizer, and (5) MOPAR severe duty fuel filter kit (this is basically the frame mounted fuel filter on 2013 and subsequent trucks - was not stock on a 2012). The truck has worked fine, never had any issue. The truck pulls the travel trailer 90% of the time (hence only 65K miles on a 2012).

Cons of keeping 2012: (1) has the previous emission system, not the DEF/SCR system, so more regenerations and worse fuel economy, (2) is a SRW 2500, so cannot pull a heavy trailer, and (3) purchased in 2013, so is now nine years old.

Pros of keeping 2012: (1) per TDR articles and research, emissions fuel economy penalty is not significant when truck is working hard, and 90% of use will continue to be pulling trailer, (2) expect that I will only be pulling a 10K - 12K trailer at most, and hopefully for a good number of years into the future, (3) truck has operated fine, makes me think if there were bugs then they would have appeared by now, (4), truck is paid for, (5) truck is paid for, (6) truck is paid for, .... and (999) truck is paid for.

It does not look to me like now is an ideal time to purchase a new truck; seems like the dealer is currently in the drivers seat.

So, welcome opinions on the keep or get something newer question.

Second, if keeping the truck, some update items:

(1) Think the brake system due for complete overhaul. Seems to me one thing in particular which warrants erring on the side of caution. New pads, calipers, rotors, flexible line, perhaps sensors, flush fluid, replace fluid, bleed.

(2) Replace batteries. Have always worked fine, but getting old.

(3) Replace front struts and rear shock absorbers.

(4) Set of new tires.

(5) Replace serpentine belt.

(6) Flush and replace coolant.

(7) Am going back and forth in mind on set of front locking hubs. If installing, should front drive shaft u-joints be replaced? Perhaps not, since would rarely turn. On the other hand, in there now.....

(8) Replace front ball joints - the aftermarket type which can be greased, etc.

Welcome opinions on this list as well.

Thanks, all.

I have a 2012 2500 6.7 long bed 116k miles, I will never get rid of it. Stopped by the dealer lot the other day. 2500 6.7 Short bed sticker was $94k. Mine was $52k. I don't see $42k worth of value from what I have now.. I love my truck

 

[SSchang]

I think dealer lots are starting to fill back up with new vehicles, so the record trade in prices are starting to drop. I was lucky (I guess), I ordered a new 2022 3500 Laramie long bed dually last July. I planned to trade in my 2020 3500 Laramie long bed SRW with 25,000 miles. Trucks were identical, except for the dually upgrade on the 2022. It took 6 months for the 2022 to get to the dealer. It cost me $700 plus my trade for the new truck. The dealer had my trade listed for $10,000 more than they had given me for the trade, not sure what they finally sold it for.

 

[bcbender]

yeah, I had been toying with the idea of trading my 20 in for a 22 also