Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Install gov springs

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Code Reader / 4" Flex exhaust

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Scheaffer Oils?

Status
Not open for further replies.
How do yall make sure the piston is top dead center brfore you change the springs on each cylinder I know if there not top and you axadently drop a valve you gotta pull the head to get it out ( BAD ) not good if you ask me so help me out its a 12 valver and I done bought them and a stubby spring compresor. I'm ready :D
 
You can roll the engine by rotating the bottom wheel in the front of the engine. It's kind of hard, but can be done. You'll see the retain nut clearly when the spring set is in place. It looks like a circle inside a circle. Just remember there is oil in there; have a rag or container ready. Also use a magnet to get the springs out (3 + the big one you reuse) and any spacers. Mine had two. Oh, and don't drop anything :rolleyes:; thinking you left a spring somewhere in the pump is a very bad feeling!
 
are you installing gov springs or the 60# valve springs that go with the 4k kit? if its just the gov springs they are easy and you dont need the compressor. if its valve springs your tearin into, i would be careful. theres a way to do 2cyl, roll the motor over x* (someone that knows this will chime in) and do 2 more, and so on.
 
41jay,



Are you referring to governor springs or valve springs? You say gov. springs in your title, but you talk about dropping a valve and a spring compressor.



I'm confused :confused:



-Jay
 
opps

You guys I'm sorry I said gov they are valve because theres 24 of them and I do need a spring compresor the way yall talk I might come out ahead letting the shop take it on and just stay out of it. I should have asked yall before I bought the springs but they were on sail and I got cought up in the moment and bought them but they still sound like a good deal and a good mod for my truck. will vale springs let you truck rev past 3000 or is that gov springs maby that man I talked to at piers didn't know whathf@#$ he was talkin about :-{}
 
well if they dont know what there talking about at piers we all might as well give up :confused: you only need the valve springs if you plan on going past 3400 rpm, a little much for daily street driving. a 3k kit works just fine for most. what gov springs are you putting in? the hd valve springs are used for a exhaust brake too. just some ideas.





matt
 
How about you post the part # that is on the bag/container that the springs came in!!! Or maybe the part # on your invoice ?? The only way we will know what the hell you're talking about is to see the part #. Governer springs let you have full fuel right up to 3,000 rpm with a 3k kit. with a 4k kit you have full fuel up to 4,000 rpm. with the 4,000 rpm kit you have to install 60# valve springs, so you don't float the valves. I sure hope this clarifies things.



I'm sure i'm not to only one very cornfused here



curtis
 
41jay said:
You guys I'm sorry I said gov they are valve because theres 24 of them and I do need a spring compresor...



Hold it! 24 springs for a 12-valve motor? :confused: :confused:



OK. You've been pinched enough! We understand. ;)



You really only need heavier valve springs if you install the 4K governor kit or exhaust brake (need exhaust springs only for the brake). You can run a 3K governor kit just fine with the stock springs assuming they are in reasonably good shape. I've rev'd mine up to 3500 many times on hard acceleration runs and have yet to notice any float. I've also run it well past 3000 on the dyno in 4th and 5th gear with no problems.



You can pretty easily change them yourself if you just locate TDC for cylinder 1 via the timing pin or some other method. Find a chart that shows the firing order and each of the other 5 cylinders will be at their TDC at 120* of additional rotation (right fellow members?) from the previous cylinder. Start with #1 and change those valve springs. Then rotate foward 120* and change that set. 120* more and change those, and so on.



The rubber valve guide seal will generally provide enough friction to keep the valve from dropping unless you push on it. Valve lift on both intake and exhaust is a little under 1/2". So the piston at TDC is not much below that. If you're at TDC you shouldn't loose the valve if it does drop. If you do have a problem keeping it up to put the spring and keepers on, you can remove the injector and have a friend pressurize the cylinder with a compressor while you install the springs and keepers.



-Jay
 
Sorry

SO SORRY AGAIN I feal stupid just got excited will post part # when get from ups I think there valve b/c Qty 24 2 valves per cylinder in and out :(
 
41jay,



Don't worry about a mistake here. :(



We all made them before we understand what is being said. ;)



The thing is-----make them here before you get into the engine & make a bigger mistake.

These misprints are easier to correct than a 911 about a motor. :{



Let us know,



WAYNES WORLD
 
i agree, its easier to fix a typo than a dropped valve in the cyl :eek: i dont see why you would want the 4k for starting out. you can always upgrade to a 4k kit later. if it was mine i would put in a 3k kit, keep the valve springs on the shelf until you want to do some head work. its easier to do them when the heads on the bench. dont fret the small stuff. stay with the 3k for now.



matt
 
Thanks

Still need to know do I install the valve springs or send them back and buy the gov springs? Whats the difference between the two and where are the gov springs located? And maby I need to puchace the gov springs on top of buying the valve ones. I'm alittle confused and wondering witch way to go or witch mod to do next you see its my personal truck and my toy so I can't aford to loose it even for a week, I was thinking about buying another dodge so I can play with one but I just got this one paid off. I'm a little bit weary of working for the bank again. another reson is the money to have fun with is the money I'm not paying on my truck anymore :p I'm only 23 and got my firsy truck paid off :D So now I'm gonna have fun with it!
 
3k=no hd valve springs

4k= more money and a lot of work to put in hd valve springs.



personally, i would go with the 3k kit (on sale this month) and a plate. the gov springs are under the afc housing. if you pull the plate out, look down in ther while you roll the motor over slowly (having a barring tool helps with this) and you will see a big spring come into view like this one.



thier not to bad to do, just take your time and have a good magnet and screwdriver. buy a big flat one and grind the center out of it to fit over the middle. just do it slow and dont drop anything. easy as that. you can always upgrade your 3k kit to a 4k later for cheap, do the 3k for now. keep the valve springs until you get that far down the road and you better understand the motor and how to do them.



matt
 
In addition, isn't the cam is outa gas above 3k. If so, past 3k to 4k is really past the efficiency range.



Ck out my pics ... you can see the drop off past 3k.
 
Get at least a Haynes manual. In addition to what you're doing, there's lots of other info in there. If you can, a shop manual (the big one, about $80) is even better. On the GSK kit, remember that the pictures in the Piers directions are with the pump OFF the engine. It's got some stuff in front of it on the engine, but still isn't too hard to get to. Have fun!
 
a lot of people like to go through the plug on the side of the pump but my faith still lies in going through the plate hole. theres a lot of brake stuff to work around with the plug method. its a little tricky through the top but you can see a bit better. but i would see how it would be easier to do through the plug being much closer to the springs.



matt
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top