Install Viair Constant Duty Air Compressor/Air Horns On My 2017 Ram 5500

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

I'm now going to install the Viair 450 constant duty air compressor on my 2017 Ram 5500 along with a set of air horns from a previous truck. I am sketching some plans for the installation for location of the equipment, and routing of air and power lines. Should be done with the sketches today or tomorrow. On thing I'm going to do different than a typical installation is I'm going to install an air pressure regulator to manage the 144PSI the pressure cutoff switch is set to. This is just that not all air tools are set to handle that much pressure and gotta look up what the Bull air horns max pressure is rated at. Gonna mount the air couplers on either side of the front of the CM ER tow body rather than front and rear. Since I'm using the Aux SW 1 (40 amp) on the truck, I'm going to use the on/off switch on the pressure gauge to turn the air horns on/off. I turn off air horns when turning truck in for maintenance and when parking in RV parks. No one want to hear air horn blast every time the truck is locked.

Since this is an installation a Cab and Chassis, not everything will apply, but can give all some ideas. For example, from experience, installing the compressor in the engine bay can subject it to excessive heat and failure. I'm talking about general temps under the hood get very hot, not just from locating near exhaust, turbo, and EGR. ALL these components raise the temps for a convection oven effect. Had gauge melt and compressor fail in my 09 4500 due to convection heat. Not saying you can't install compressor in the engine bay, just be mindful of the CONVECTION heat effect.

Anyhoo, thought I would start the thread.

More to come, Ron

 

[DavidC]

I tried to add some info to previous threads but they are closed for any responses

 

[Ozymandias]

I've wired the Horn in a way that with Key off the Airhorns are disable by default. Same reason for it as you mention.
You know about Mike and Me installed the Compressor inside the drivers fender? Clean and dry?

 

[Wiredawg]

I've wired the Horn in a way that with Key off the Airhorns are disable by default. Same reason for it as you mention.
You know about Mike and Me installed the Compressor inside the drivers fender? Clean and dry?

Did you post project here on TDR? I'd like to check it out.

Never mind, I searched and found it. Will take that location under advisement.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Ozymandias]

Great you found it, yes Mike made a nice write up and now we'll see if a Gen4 has the same, or even more, space up there in the fender.

 

[Wiredawg]

Here's some of the layout:

I don't have the strength to hold the tank up and get far enough away to take a pic...Has my Home Depot L brackets attached and will drill the tool box tomorrow. The Pump will go on the front of the tool box and the air couplers will mount inside the tool boxes both sides so they don't get crap in them.

I'm installing the tank and the compressor on the driver side, away from the heat of the exhaust system, but the ball valves and air manifold will be on the pax side. Nice gap between the cab and bed for regulator feeding the manifold and ball valves for each of the three legs. Gonna only have air to the air horns normal configuration.

More to come... been going to physical therapy since last week for my fused ankle... been really tough.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Cummins12V98]

Specifically what air lines and fittings are you going to use? I have had horrible luck keeping lines from leaking in the past especially when the weather is colder.

 

[Wiredawg]

Specifically what air lines and fittings are you going to use? I have had horrible luck keeping lines from leaking in the past especially when the weather is colder.

I'm using the ones that came with the system and adding some... all brass. I'm using Loctite thread sealant on them. Plus, going to rout the lines inside flex duct to prevent chafing. Also, going to secure the lines and fitting so no/minimum vibration. Fittings only tighten 10 to 15 ftlbs.

Cheers, Ron

 

[JR]

I'm using the ones that came with the system and adding some... all brass. I'm using Loctite thread sealant on them. Plus, going to rout the lines inside flex duct to prevent chafing. Also, going to secure the lines and fitting so no/minimum vibration. Fittings only tighten 10 to 15 ftlbs.

Cheers, Ron

Brass tubing also?

I'm a real fan of nylon air brake tubing. It's simply resilient in every aspect. Temperature, pressure, vibration, etc.

Just not as pretty as stainless

 

[DavidC]

Brass tubing also?

I'm a real fan of nylon air brake tubing. It's simply resilient in every aspect. Temperature, pressure, vibration, etc.

Just not as pretty as stainless

The system comes with the plastic tubing.

 

[JR]

The system comes with the plastic tubing.

Thanks. I thought they did, like air bag kits. The "all brass" statement left pause.

 

[DavidC]

Thanks. I thought they did, like air bag kits. The "all brass" statement left pause.

Yeah it comes with the tubing and all the brass fittings, some assembly required . The only thing I remember providing was the L brackets and tank nuts and bolts.

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,
Got a few hours on the air tank today. Installed Home Depot L brackets

I drilled and installed L brackets on the tank and measured 11 7/16" inside edge to inside edge. Removed them, applied 3M double sided tape to the side attaching to my under bed tool boxes, area cleaned.

Tape on the brackets helps isolate vibration and they hold themselves while drilling.

And attached to toolbox.

And drilled.

OK, when Mama can't help, there's tape.

So this is installing the L brackets. Used large flat washers with plenty of gasket maker to keep toolbox dry.

Cheets, Ron

 

[Wiredawg]

So, I installed fittings on tank, with valves to shut off legs

Pressure cutoff switch.

Gonna install the tank and compressor tomorrow. Got a Christmas party to go to. cya

Christmas Cheers, Ron

 

[Wiredawg]

Just thought I would make a comment about tightness of the brass fittings. It's easy to get the specified tightness when orientation doesn't matter, but when it does matter, you likely going way tighter, like 3/4 turn to much. Had this happen when trying to orient the air pressure regulator and air gauge. When doing this, you need to secure the female end with a wrench or plyers and easily tighten the male part with a wrench. I like the Loctite Thread Sealant because it lubes a little. An important note: You can NEVER back off the fitting without compromising the seal. So, if you've gone to far, you need to remove, reapply thread sealant, and do it again. My wife has clear protect film that I'm going to cutout and apply over the air gauge as extra protection.

Gotta bench test the air horns and solenoid as it has been a few years since they have been operated. After my 09 4500 fried the air gauge and compressor, I just let it sit there. Before trading it, I removed them. Previously, I had operated the air horns with the pump and tank that came in the kit, so researched how much pressure they can handle... mine show 150 PSI, so that airline gets only a cutoff valve. I have one cutoff valve for the two air couplers. You can see these valves on the pics above. I'm going to install one more valve on the airline feeding the gauge inside the truck. This valve is mainly for troubleshooting air leaks as I can shut off ever leg feeding from the tank. Going to buy the remote drain today so I don't have to get under the truck to drain water.

EDIT: Thought I'd post pics from Amazon of my remote drain and the bulkhead couplers that I'm going to mount the air couplers inside my under bed tool boxes.

And

Drinking coffee and getting my old self slow started today, then out to the project.

Feel free to ask questions or make comments...

Cheers, Ron

 

[CVR222NV]

Nice set up. I have this project on my list as I want to be able to air tires up and down and will be installing air bags. Might as well add air horns!

 

[Ozymandias]

I use push in fittings all around, got rid of the brass fittings.

 

[Wiredawg]

I use push in fittings all around, got rid of the brass fittings.

I have some push fittings also for 90° turns where radius turn won't work. I've had great success with them also.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

So I installed the drivers side bulkhead connector with the air coupler and the air compessor. See pics.

and installed

From the back side:

And the bracket with tape

And installed

this magnetic level is great to get the bracket correct. once the bracket is attached with the two sides tape its VERY hard to remove.

And I'm done for today... arthritis doesn't like this too much.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

I bench tested three trumpet air horns today and decided I'm going to install the air compressor air pressure gauge in the covey hole on right side of the dash. Might take more time routing it in there. Also, replaced incandescent bulb in the air pressure gauge with an LED one. I'll see of I can capture a pic or two tomorrow.

EDIT: Here's a pic of covey with gauge... if I use this have to modify the covey to allow gauge to not be angled to the right.

Cheers, Ron