Installed Max Brake

[AfterBurner]

The only thing I tried was to keep the CAN plug connected. I did not feel like taking the time to build jumpers. I'm glad to hear it worked, might try this myself.

Took it to the dealer on Saturday to try to uninstall controller, clear 3 DTCs and change oil. When I came back my bill was $233! They charged me $110 to tell me the oem controller was unplugged and that they can't uninstall it! I was livid to say the least. The rep said they had to "diagnose" the problem before they could figure out if they could fix it. I asked how it cost $110 to open he drivers door and see that there was no power to the controller, not to mention I told them exactly what was wrong when I left it there. After about an hour and a half of going back and forth I left there with a $150 bill. What a joke!

 

[SPucillo]

Afterburner,

This is exactly why I chose to fool the controller rather than to to the dealer!



It is not just about knowing a good dealer, you need to know a good mechanic that works there and make sure to request that he does the work.



I had a Ford with a 460 that leaked oil from the day I bought it. Four trips to the dealer and it still leaked! The first 3 trips they said the pan bolts were loose so they re-torqued them! The 4th time they said it was normal sweat! I told them maybe a lower thermostat would help the sweating. The guy just gave me a blank stare, totally did not get my sarcasm!! I found a good Ford mechanic through a buddy though a buddy that fixed it the first time. Turned out to be a malformed pan around the rear main bearing cap. He also said the pan bolts were overtightened and deformed the pan! Ya think!



Now that I have a Dodge I have to keep my eyes and ears open for a good dealer mechanic in the San Diego area. Until then I am my own warranty station.

 

[stick]

My dealer used a laptop, and deleated the POS brake controller.



Stick

 

[AfterBurner]

They told me that if it came from the factory with the controller that they couldn't delete it. I even got the "Master"tech involved and he said the same thing.
What dealer did the delete for you?

 

[HBarlow]

They told me that if it came from the factory with the controller that they couldn't delete it. I even got the "Master"tech involved and he said the same thing.
What dealer did the delete for you?

If you can't locate a dealer closer to you that can or will help you talk to TDR member Mike Mullenax. He is the senior Cummins tech at Elder Dodge in Athens, TX.

 

[stick]

I know it's not close to you, but it was Carter County Dodge in Ardmore Okla. They had to call Tech Athority to find out how.



Stick

 

[kboettcher]

Hey Afterburner

Can you tell me how you wired your Maxbrake? Did you just tap into the wiring that is plugged into the intergrated controller? The wires coming out of the intergrated controller seem so small.

 

[kboettcher]

Well, Got the Maxbrake installed today. I did the little jumper trick that SPucillo posted. Then hooked up the Gooseneck equipment trailer and took it for a tow. It has electric over hydraulic brakes. I see what you guys mean about "you just don't know until you've towed with one". Man what a difference. Can't wait to try it loaded. Hauling a load of haylage tomorrow, that will be the real test.

 

[HBarlow]

The testimonials keep adding up. The numbers of us who are "believers" in BrakeSmart and MaxBrake brake line pressure sensing controllers continue to grow. We have probably converted at least 100 members to MaxBrakes over the last several years.

A former member named Domehead was the first to buy a new Gen IV truck with an OEM brake controller and convert it to a MaxBrake. He wrote and I edited an article that was published in TDR a couple years ago explaining how he did it. He took his truck back to his selling dealer and had the service department delete the computer code that tells the ECM/PCM or whatever computer the OEM brake controller is installed. Apparently deleting the accessory code also deletes or turns off the software.

It is sad to get the reports back here on how poorly informed so many dealership service departments are. If not for TDR and the three members who are dealership or Dodge employees and KNOW the product all of us would be much less informed and much less satisfied owners.

 

[mwilson]

I believe the connector kit for the above gray plug is 68052581AA.



Use this link, http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/platform_select.asp



Select year (I used 2011), then select platform (I used DS: 1500/2500/2500 RAM LIGHT DUTY), then hit the "Pick this vehicle" button.





when it opens change the "search on" box to "kit number" and then enter the 68052581AA in the box to the right. Select go.

You get two search results, either one gives the same result. Select either result and the drawing with color codes will come up.

This should prove it out.





Mike.

 

[HBarlow]

Mike,

The link didn't work for me as you prescribed. Perhaps I'm not doing something right?

 

[mwilson]

Maybe I chose the wrong section to link, I'll try again.



Mike.

 

[mwilson]

Harvey, I modified the instructions in my post.



Try it now.



Thanks for letting me know.



Mike.

 

[HBarlow]

It worked for me after revision.

 

[RMecum]

SPucillo

I've got my MAXBRAKE installed and just want to clarify... all I need to do is take jumpers off the electrical connections for the positive and ground, unplug the large grey connector off the factory brake controller and put power and ground to the terminals on the factory brake controller? And as I look at the back of the controller, which pins are power and ground?



Man it's tight back there and with my 55 yr old eyes it's hard to see with my bi-focals!

I appreciate your work and help.

Mike

 

[HBarlow]

Mike,

I've never looked at a MaxBrake and it's been years since I looked at the wiring on my BrakeSmart but normally, the brake controller wiring is as follows:

Red: Stop Light Voltage Input
Blue: Brake Voltage Out
Black: 12 Volt Always Hot
White: Ground

That's from memory and I may be mistaken.

 

[RMecum]

Thanks Harvey

I've got it all hooked up and working but I need to do what SPucillo did and trick the factory brake controller in to thinking "everything is working". I actually came up with a plan while I was laying in bed this morning... I do some of my best thinking then... in the shower too!

 

[SPucillo]

SPucillo
I've got my MAXBRAKE installed and just want to clarify... all I need to do is take jumpers off the electrical connections for the positive and ground, unplug the large grey connector off the factory brake controller and put power and ground to the terminals on the factory brake controller? And as I look at the back of the controller, which pins are power and ground?

Man it's tight back there and with my 55 yr old eyes it's hard to see with my bi-focals!
I appreciate your work and help.
Mike

I recommend a good light source while doing this.
If you look close at the pictures I provided you will see which pins get the power and ground.

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Laying on your back you should see a socket that looks like this after you remove the connector. I hate using ASCII characters for drawing but I am on travel now and this is all I have for drawing tools.
The ground is left bottom and the positive is right bottom. The other two are bake signal and output to the magnets. These stay disconnected.
Use insulated spade connectors as the power is hot all the time. Don't want to spark it up on accident!

Hope this helps.

 

[RMecum]

Thanks SP... . like I said I was laying in bed this morning and sorted this out. I pulled my maxbrake harness and put jumpers from the + and ground and fished the + and ground wires out of the trucks harness where they were cut. I should add that I had an inertia controller installed by an RV shop here in Sacramento so I could go on a trip while I was waiting for the correct fitting for the hydraulic sensor so they had cut the harness wires to hook up that controller.



I simply replaced the inertia controller with the MAXBRAKE and then hooked a jumper from yellow/red (12 volt hot) to the yellow/red in the truck harness and a jumper from the ground to the black/purple in the truck harness leaving the truck harness plugged in to the factory brake controller... . and voila! No more "service trailer brake" and MAXBRAKE working perfect!

Your research and experiment made the most sense to me and it worked as you dicovered, I just used a different tactic... same result.