Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) installing 3000 rpm governor springs

[paulsmith]

Am I right in thinking that these springs are UNDER the #8 plate I just installed a few weeks ago? I have to pull the plate to get to it? Then there are two springs?



If I remember, I did not see anything below the plate so these springs must be DEEP!



I have a claiper, how importantant is it to get the depth back exactly like it was? (Using a caliper) I mean TST makes a big deal about making sure the plate is back in the exact same place, then everyone just slides it foward without measuring anything.



What about the idle problem mentioned? When using the veneer caliper to measure, what do I measure?



Is this hard to do?



To "bar" the engine I can do it with a crank bolt? I dont have a barring tool.



I get real nervous in areas where I might drop something down in the engine, and it sounds like a real good possibilty of dropping something down in the engine.....



Paul Smith

 

[Reddog1]

You can replace the springs from the top (under the fuel plate) or from the side. My preference is the side. I have not done the top, but it would be easier to drop parts in the pump. The side PLUG is a pain in the a** to put back in.



If I remember correctly, there are actually four springs, with shims. They are in sets of two, and are 180 degrees from each other.



From the side, I measured the depth of the nut stem to the top of the nut. I used the depth portion of my dial calipers. Actually it appeared pretty crude, but it worked. I had no idle problem. The idle did go up about 50 RPM, but went back down when I installed my injectors.



Is this hard to do? I did not think so.



To "bar" the engine, I use the alternator pulley nut. I think it is 22 mm.



As for dropping something, that’s why I prefer the side plug approach.



I sent you a PM I copied off the TDR. It may help. If you buy the GSK from Piers, you will get instructions.





Wayne

 

[C Schomer]

Going thru the side plug isn't bad. Make sure you have a good pencil magnet to pull the old stuff out. An inspection mirror helps a lot too. There's a difference between the man. and auto. bottom spring seats. One has a flat bottom and the other has a recess cut around the center hole. Check the bottom side of yours and make sure the 3k seats are the same. When I got mine, Piers had some teeny boppers doing the packaging and got them mixed up - I had to do it twice but I got good at it. Craig

 

[paulsmith]

Well, I did get the kit from Peirs, but, I am sorry to admit this, I lost the instructions and have only the web site on this site:



http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/GovSpring.htm



You see, I have my "desk" in the den with the computer on it, and when the kit came in the mail, I quickly opened it and read over the instructions.



Later that night my boys (I have 3) had a few freinds spend the night, and they took over the computer (games). When I cleaned up the mess they made on my desk, the instructions were gone!



That was several weeks ago, and as usual, I have not been able to work on the truck because it is working (currently has a bobcat on a trailer behind it!) but am thinking I will get the chance next week.



Are the Peirs instuctions on the web anywhere? I can call again monday, but really was looking for more info.

 

[Reb.B]

i've done it from top and side and both top and side, i think the side is the easiest and fastest. u need to get a good size screwdriver, cut the middle out of it and use it to loosen the spring nut. I counted the 1/4 turns until the nut was flush with the top of the stud. Its good practice to use calipers too the first time. its good to use a baring tool as well, . . if not, then try to bar the motor over by screw driver. If u use the starter, u can go too far and accidently do the same spring over again. uh, i don't know how that can happen, uh ya, i suppose it could happen, uh that wouldn't happen to me the first time, . . k, it happened to me, chalked it up to good practice, lol. u'll probably have to adjust the idle a little. good luck, . . Reb

 

[Reddog1]

I got'em

Paul,



I have Piers instructions in Word. Since you bought your GSK from Piers, I am sure he would not mind if I sent them to you. I don't think he would want them posted on the net, or he would have done so.



I tried the PM thing, and did not see how to send an attachment. I tried your TDR email, had the same problem.



Pm me your email address, and I will send the instructions, complete with pictures.





I too made the screwdriver slot tool. It is kinda like a odd ball spanner wrench. Works great.



The alternator pulley nut works just fine for baring the engine. The mechanics here at Cummins use the nut.



rebsram method looks good to. I tried counting the turns to remove the nut, got spazed up and lost count when the nut came off. Fourtinuately I did measure first.



Counting the turns to the top of the stud sounds like a better method of counting.



Wayne

 

[Reddog1]

The instructions are in the email Paul.





I think the GSK is the best mod I have made to my Ram.



Wayne

 

[danandamy]

Going through the top

I went through the top, it wasn't that bad. I considered the side but it looked like it would be kinda hard to see down there. Yes, if you go through the top Paul you will have to pull your plate out. I measured the depth of the nut on the stud several times with the calipers before starting to be sure I got it right. I used a real strong magnet and a screwdriver. I didn't need to cut a notch out, I was able to just stick the screw driver in the groove on one side and hold the other side with the magnet and ease it on around (they're not in there tight at all). There's two sets of springs in there, the first set I was nervous as all get out but after that it was a piece of cake. It's an intimidating job on paper but not as bad once you just make up your mind and do it.



dan