Installing a 5W hitch on 3rd gen

[alexanderJ]

Does anyone have pictures of a 5W hitch install on a 3rd generation CTD?



Reese/Draw-Tite makes a custom bracket for the install eliminating any drilling. It mounts kind of like using U-bolts around the frame. It saves time but costs more than twice the price of the conventional brackets.



If anyone has used this type of bracket, or if you have used the conventional bracket and drilled, please let me know how the job went.



It doesn't look that difficult and I trust me drilling on my truck rather than a kid in the back of an RV shop.

 

[RustyJC]

You might want to check out the B&W turnoverball gooseneck with its companion 5th wheel RV hitch as well. It also uses a Dodge-approved clamping system, IIRC.



Rusty

 

[alexanderJ]

Thanks Rusty, I'm familiar with the B & W but I just need a regular 5W hitch w/slider. I basically only use my truck for pulling so complete hitch removal is not necessary. Even with the rails left in the truck, I can do pretty much anything I need to. Also, the B & W w/5W conversion is not cheap! Great hitch though.

 

[Bob V]

I used the Reese kit, I had no problems with it but hated the rails. I went to the B&W. I like the flat floor with no rails but the Reese 5th wheel I had was better, and a LOT eaiser and faster to R&R. I still have the no drill kit and it is for sale.

 

[klenger]

http://www.klenger.net/dodge/pullrite/index.html

 

[Bertram65]

I mounted the Reese Signature series on my 3rd gen, here is the thread with pictures, https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110068

works great.

 

[firemanram]

I have some pics of the hitch in my gallery .

 

[TowPro]

I did my Reese in the 06 by drilling. I don't see if you have a 3500 or 2500, but the 3500 needs some additional brackets for the rear mount because the over load spring perches are in the way. Just follow the Dodge TSB about drilling, it tells you how far away from the frame edges to stay. If I recall, looking at the front brackets, if you drilled the outer holes it would be out of specs per the TSB. I have yanked my over 10K lb 5er over 6K miles with the 06 and everything is holding up well. Also, if this hitch is being moved from another truck buy a new hardware kit. the Reese frame brackets have a knurled section that grips in the frame, be sure to use the exact size drill bit for the frame bolts that reese tells you to! Plus the new hardware kit comes with the wire you need to fish the frame bolts into the boxed frame. It looks like a PITA but its not bad once you fished the first one.

 

[alexanderJ]

TowPro,



I have a 2500 short bed. Expand a little on why a new hardware kit is needed, and couldn't you basically use any flexible wire to fish the bolts.



I spoke with Bob (who posted above) this afternoon about the no-drill Reese brackets and they sound like the way to go. I'm just interested in hearing all the stories about mounting these hitches. I always learn a lot from this forum. Thanks to all.



Jerry

 

[WHazelwood]

I have the same set up as Klenger and use Pullrite super 16 slider. It was a simple installation in that everything bolted right up. I must have measured for the holes about 6 times just to be sure and the pins fit perfect.

Keep grinnin,

 

[J&LRam]

the Reese clamp on brkts are very popular with the RV crowd. I hauled commercial and non commercial [my own construction company] over the years with all truck brands/frame types and will only use welded on hitch brkts for any hitch on my trucks.

If you decide to go with any bolt/clamp on hitch brkts just check the bolts and watch for frame chaffing issues, with the clamp on type, a couple times a year if your just pullin' a RV on occasion. Weld them and forget them.

JIM

 

[TowPro]

TowPro,



I have a 2500 short bed. Expand a little on why a new hardware kit is needed, and couldn't you basically use any flexible wire to fish the bolts.



I spoke with Bob (who posted above) this afternoon about the no-drill Reese brackets and they sound like the way to go. I'm just interested in hearing all the stories about mounting these hitches. I always learn a lot from this forum. Thanks to all.



Jerry

the bolts that you put through the frame have knurling on the shoulder just below the head. as you draw them through the hole in the frame the knurl stops the bolt from turning (you can't get into the frame to hold the head with a wrench).



When I bought all my hitch parts back one year ago Reese did not make a no-drill bracket, at least not for the 3500 SRW trucks. I did call Reese direct and ask them. I would probably have gone that route if they made them back then.