Installing a Header in a Wall?

[rbattelle]

I'm helping a friend cut a 6-foot wide doorway out of an existing interior wall in a single-story home. The wall does not *appear* to be load bearing, based on the complete lack of any header and the shoddy framing within the wall. However, the wall is resting on a cinderblock wall immediately below it, which would imply to me that the wall is load bearing.



So we're moving forward under the assumption that the wall is load bearing (the safer assumption) and will install a doubled-up 2x12x8 header to span the new doorway. This is WAY overkill, but lumber is cheaper than a collapsed roof. 3 existing studs will need to be removed for the doorway.



My question is, how do we provide temporary support for the top plate so the studs can be removed and the header can be installed? We've come up with a couple ideas that would work but be remarkably awkward, difficult, inconvenient, or some combination of those.



I was wondering if there's some carpenter's "trick" to performing the operation.



-Ryan

 

[Signal73]

Typically what I do is build a 2X4 wall with single top and bottom plates paralell to the existing wall your going to demo, then gut the old wall install header with jack studs and then remove the temporary wall. If its just attic space above the wall, while some weight is bearing on the wall from the ceiling joists, They are more there to hold the exterior walls from bowing out (splay) from the forces applied from the weight of the roof then from keeping the roof from falling in. 2X12 doubled over an 8' span does sound more then sufficent also.

 

[rbattelle]

Typically what I do is build a 2X4 wall with single top and bottom plates paralell to the existing wall your going to demo, then gut the old wall install header with jack studs and then remove the temporary wall.

This is a great idea, except that we're trying to preserve the existing ceiling so we don't have to take the time to re-drywall it. In order to build a parallel temporary wall, we'd need to remove part of the ceiling. Maybe we should go ahead and cut a few holes in the ceiling under the roof trusses to prop it up...



-Ryan

 

[fkovalski]

You can leave the dry wall intact at the ceiling, just spread the load using 3/4 ply- 12" x the length (+24") of the opening. I would use the 2x4 temp wall as stated using the method above at the celing ON BOTH SIDES OF THE OPENING. Depending on the method of the original framing, you don't want to support 1 side to only have the other fall down should it in fact be load bearing. I have detailed temp walls like this on exterior walls when adding additions.



One other small item to look at as well: do a quick inspection of the floor assembly under where the temp wall will be. Insure that the load can be transfered down properly... shore up as req'd in the crawl space or basement to insure stability.

 

[rbattelle]

Thanks for all this great advice!



I didn't realize it was possible to erect a temporary wall without ruining a finished ceiling.



-Ryan

 

[fkovalski]

Thanks for all this great advice!



I didn't realize it was possible to erect a temporary wall without ruining a finished ceiling.



-Ryan

The method I described will reduce (and possibly eliminate ) the need to do ceiling repair. Obviously, a 'popcorn' ceiling would certainly sustain damage, but a meduim knock down or flat will sustain less. If it is a 'true flat ceiling, there may be some 'imprinting' depending on how well the load is dispersed and haow much weight is tranfered from above. If you have a medium texture ceiling, any repairs to it will be easier to mask as opposed to a true 'flat' ceiling. Generally, gyp bd. will not crush under evenly spread loads. if it does and you have to do some ceiling repair, it is reletivly easy to do (same as a wall, just overhead. )



EDIT:



You say it might be load bearing because of the presence of a wall in the basement (or crawl space. ) But, what is happening with the ceiling framing and roof structure? Is it truss framed or conventional stick framing? Generally, truss framing spans exterior wall to exterior wall perpendicular to a ridge. In this case (generally) it is clear span for partition walls inside. If it is this case, you may be able to safely determine that the penetration you are doing is non- load bearing.



Conventional stick framing will require a much closer inspection to determine roof loading tranfers. If you cannot determine, err to the side of safety and assume a worst case scenerio.

 

[rbattelle]

Just to update, we installed the header no problems. Before doing so we were able to verify the wall was load bearing.



To get the header in, we cut 1 nail from each stud (Sawzall) at the top and at the bottom, then twisted the studs 90 degrees. This gave enough room to install half of the header, after which we removed the studs and assembled the remainder of the header in-place.



We used a piece of 1/2" particle board between the 2x12s to bring the wall thickness out properly.



Piece of cake, really. Especially considering what a bunch of amateur carpenters we are!!



-Ryan

 

[HOBrian]

Especially considering what a bunch of amateur carpenters we are!!



-Ryan

Makes you feel good doesn't it To do something that helped out a friend!!